Day 1 - Spoleto
Day 1 - Spoleto 
Route summary
£870.00 (2017)
7 nights
(7B&B, 4 evening meals, 1 picnic)
Lift to start of walk Day 2
Luggage transfers between hotels
Medium - Hard
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Umbria (Italy)
Umbria, St Francis and the Dukes of Spoleto
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Umbria (Italy) route map
Itinerary

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Day 1

Important note: Times given for each day are  walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops.  “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb.  See “How we grade our walks” for more information.

 

Arrive in Spoleto, settle in to your accommodation and explore the old town.  Extra night recommended.

Day 2 Spoleto to Ferentillo. After a short lift (to the top of the hill!), a leg-loosening first day along pretty paths and easy tracks across the hills to the pretty Val Nerina at Ferentillo, where you stay in a beautifully sited agriturismo with pool (15 km, 5 hrs, CUSs 350m)
Day 3 Ferentillo to Labro. After a visit (we suggest) to the extraordinary Mummy Museum, a lovely and easy walk down the Val Nerina as far as Arrone (lunch?) before striding off into the vine-clad hills which precede the lake at Piediluco. Here you can summon a lift up to hilltop Labro, or purists can try the fin-du-jour slog to the top... where you stay in the heart of the village in one of two beautiful conversions. (10km, 3¾ hrs, CUSs 400m, plus lift from Piediluco, or extra 5 km/1¼ hrs/CUSs 200m if you walk it)
Day 4 Labro to Greccio. Down to the plain, and cross to the Sabine Hills to join Route Advisor Stefano's self-made-and-waymarked path through the woods to the Santuario di Greccio.  Visit the church and St Francis's cell before a final push to your comfortable hotel in Greccio village proper. (17km, 5 hrs, CUSs 750m. Alternative - lift on final stretch from Santuario to Greccio saves 3½ km/1¼ hrs/200m ascent)
Day 5 Greccio to Casperia. A long-ish day with a sting at the start.  Climb to the top of the Sabine Hills (views of the Apennines) to a remote shrine, then down through woods and bucolic pastures to the dramatic hilltop village of Cottanello. Stop here for a snack, and continue with a walk down one of the oldest roads from the town to its ancient bridge; then a pleasant country road walk through attractive woodland. Visit pretty Montasola and end at Casperia, the best of the hilltop towns, and a stylish Palazzetta. (19 km, 6 hrs, CUSs 800m)
Option Free day in Casperia (optional). Your host Maureen suggests: “short local walks around the old mule paths, to the next village for lunch, or just along the valley below.   We have cooking lessons for min 2 people - three hours hands on followed by Italian 4 course meal with wines. The cost is from €85 per person (payable locally). Guests not participating in the cooking break can join providing there is availability, as we have a maximum of 6 to 8 people (please book in advance through On Foot). Book a shiatsu massage with my daughter Jennifer. For churchgoers there are 2 lovely Renaissance churches for mass; otherwise just relax and enjoy the village with a glass of wine while watching the sunset in the Piazza Umberto 1.”
Day 6 Casperia to Mompeo. Walk from Casperia to the fine fortified village of Roccantica, which is definitely worth an explore and a coffee stop; then start walking - a gentle climb up the Valle de Galantina to a waterfall; then through high pastures down the valley leading to the twin hilltop villages of Salisano and Mompeo, behind which lies your next goal, route advisor Stefano and Elisabeth’s beautifully positioned organic farm. (21 km, 6¾ hrs, CUSs 750m, or 16km/5½ hrs/CUSs 500m with lift to Roccantica)
Option

The above day can be divided into two, to include a stay at Mauro and Ornella's quiet agriturismo (with pool). Casperia to Misciani (11 km, 4 ½ hrs walking, CUSs 510m, plus start as above for purists); Misciani to Mompeo (13km, 5¼ hrs walking, CUSs 450m, but lift available to cut out steepest section).

 

You might even  like to consider an extra day in Misciani to do a half day activity (pre-bookable through On Foot, €20 including lunch, payable locally):

Foraging - find and recognise edible herbs, and pick them to use in your supper (best in May or June);

Pasta-making - an informal afternoon learning how to make fresh pasta, to be used in your supper!

Alternatively you could help Mauro with his farm duties as appropriate for the time of year - feeding animals, working in the vineyard, picking fruit in the orchard, or, in October, taking part in the grape harvest (no charge!).

Day 7

Mompeo to Farfa. A day of (potentially at least) two abbeys. Down to the gorge for a quick paddle before your final day’s walking. Your chance to see Castelnuovo di Farfa, its quirky olive museum and old streets, before a final descent to the Abbey of Farfa (closed to visitors on Mondays). Hardy walkers can bag the final hill of San Martino to see the ruins of Farfa’s would-be sister abbey on the top, and, who knows, a view of St Peter’s dome in the distance? Lift back to Mompeo for the night. (Easy version 8 km, 2 hrs 40 mins walking, CUSs 340m, medium version with final ascent/descent of San Martino 12 Km, 4 hrs 45 mins, CUSs 550m)

Day 8 Stefano will take you to the train station at Fara in Sabina (direct trains to Rome Fiumicino airport) for your return home, or why not add a night or two in Rome at Roberta’s wonderfully central B&B, close to the Campo di Fiori and Vatican City.