Day 5 - Approaching Csobanc 
Route summary
Ł550.00 (2008)
7 nights
(7 B&B)
Easy - Medium
6 - 8 hours
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Route summary
How much walking
When you can go
Itinerary
Where you'll stay
Price includes
Picture gallery
How to get there
Highlights
Route designed by
Hungary
Rambles through the Balaton Uplands
Full Description

Vineyards, oak woods, and the unruffled lake 

 
North of Hungary’s only large expanse of water, Lake Balaton, away from the tourist bustle of the shore, lies a quiet range of hills, the Balaton Uplands. The landscape around is a strange one, with wooded hills rolling down to fertile lowlands punctuated by extinct picture-book volcanoes. In these hills the traveller finds Hungarian history and culture in microcosm. 

 

Our walk takes you from historic Veszprém through the woods above the lake to Tihany, a lake peninsula crowned by a monastery. On then, via a little luxury at a stylish pension in Koveskal, and finally Keszthely, back at the lakeside, with its fine chateau and bustling streets.

 

7 night Options:

 

Full walk:  6 days' walking, spend one night in each hotel including Sümeg. 

Kesthely Option: (recommended): 5 days' walking (miss Sümeg) plus final day in Keszthely (2 nights).

Köveskál Option:  5 days' walking (miss Sümeg) plus rest day in middle at Köveskál (2 nights) (supplement). 

 

OR why not choose 6- or 5-night options and spend some time in Budapest?

Route designed by

Gyorgy Zsiga and Erzsébet Penzes

 

Gyorgy ("George") is already known to On Foot walkers as a map designer for Kate Clow's Lycian Way book, and in between spends his time travelling and pondering life. His partner in this venture, Erzsébet, is a tourism don at the Univerity of Pannonia, who when not also raising two young daughters, assisted in the project.

Route map
How much walking

Hours per Day:  6 - 8 hours

 

A walk designed with the day-long ambler in mind. Recommended walk 5 days plus rest day, 6 day walk also available. Taxi/bus shortening options available most days.

Terrain

Difficulty:  easy-medium


Most paths are signed on the ground, but some navigation needed in woodland. A few short steep stretches, but mainly easy gradients. Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 335m per day.

GPS referenced

Our recommended start dates
September 2008 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 , 9 , 10 , 11 , 12 , 13 , 14 , 15 , 16 , 17 , 18 , 19 , 20 , 21 , 22 , 23 , 24 , 25 , 26 , 27 , 28 , 29 , 30
October 2008 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 , 9 , 10 , 11 , 12 , 13 , 14 , 15 , 16 , 17 , 18 , 19 , 20 , 21 , 22 , 23 , 24 , 25 , 26 , 27 , 28 , 29 , 30 , 31
 
< September 2008 >
Mon Tue Wed Thu Fri Sat Sun
1 2 3 4 5 6 7
8 9 10 11 12 13 14
15 16 17 18 19 20 21
22 23 24 25 26 27 28
29 30
Key
  Recommended
  Possible
  Unavailable
Itinerary
Day 1 Transfer to the first hotel in Veszprém. Freshen up, have a good wander around the old town and the castle hill.
Day 2 Veszprém to Tihany. a walk through oak woods to the ferry pier, relax with an ice cream and wait for the ferry to Tihany (bus in the off-season). (18 km, 7 hrs, CUSs 200m)
Day 3 Tihany to Nagyvázsony. Across the peninsula to the old lavender fields and through the open hill country to a wine-tasting lunch at the Mészáros vineyard. After lunch, a climb up to the ancient castle of Zádorvár, and downhill to your pension at Nagyvázsony, with its splendid castle. (24 km, 7 hrs, CUSs 350m). Alternative save 2 or 4 hrs walking by travelling with the luggage.
Day 4

Nagyvázsony to Köveskál. A day of contrasts. Starting from the castle at Nagyvázsony, the path leads quickly to the remarkable ruined monastery of Pálos Kolostor, before winding through the quiet valley of Vázsony-séd. Climb Hegyes-tu, a slab of basalt rising high above the plain, and finish with a quiet amble into Köveskál and your little bit of luxury in the form of the Káli Art Inn. (22 km, 6 hrs 20 mins, CUSs 275m). Alternative save 3˝ hrs by travelling with the luggage.

 

Köveskál option: Choose to relax by the pool or wander up into the hills around, using the maps provided (we particularly like the traditional village of Balatonhenye) or arrange an activity with your host - perhaps some painting, or some carriage riding or … see http://www.kaliartinn.com

Day 5 Köveskál to Tapolca. Scale two hills and explore a rock-sea. Your next hotel sits by the town fish pond. (7 hrs, 23 km, or 6 hrs, 18 km plus final bus ride into town, CUSs 550m) Alternative: ride with the luggage and save 2 or 3 hrs
Day 6

Tapolca to Sümeg. An easy day’s walking across the open ground north of Tapolca and into the oak woods. Accommodation in an authentic fogadó under the castle in Sümeg. (23.6 km, 6˝ hrs, CUSs 200m) Alternative: Ride with the luggage to Ódörögd (save 2 hrs)

Day 7

Sümeg to Keszthely. From Sümeg, a day of woodland walking or from Tapolca, after a bus ride, a more open start through vineyards to the oakwoods. Your goal, Keszthely and its fine chateau. (From Sümeg, 30 km, 8 hrs, CUSs 400m). Note: clients missing out Sumeg have a 23 km/6˝ hrs walk from Tapolca to Keszthely

Day 8 Depart for home (or choose to stay further nights, with a visit to Hévíz thermal waters nearby, or perhaps a few days in Budapest)
Where you'll stay
All en-suite unless otherwise stated
Night 1
Veszprém: (B&B)
A renovated hotel in a quiet street in the town centre, with busy restaurant
Night 2
Tihany: (B&B)
Friendly little 'panzio' on the edge of the village
Night 3
Nagyvázsony: (B&B)
Informal restaurant-with-rooms and small pool in the centre of the village
Night 4
Koveskal: (B&B)
Former officers' billet now converted to stylish country house panzio with pool and grounds
Night 5
Tapolca: (B&B)
Pretty hotel on the edge of the former town fish pond
Night 6
Sümeg: (B&B)
Very basic fogado under castle
Night 7
Keszthely: (B&B)
Comfortable panzio in the centre of the old town with good restaurant
Price includes

Total 7 nights in shared room, all breakfasts, luggage transfers, 5 picnics and one vineyard lunch with wine, and taxi from first hotel to start of walk.

Savings and supplements

Single Room Supplement Ł90

Lone Traveller Additional Supplement Ł40
3rd person and over Ł90 off per person

3+ bedded rooms - call us for savings

 

Shorter breaks

6 nights (miss night 7) Ł500; SRS Ł78; LTAS Ł40; 3rd person+ Ł77 off pp

5 nights (miss nights 1 & 7) Ł455; SRS Ł65; LTAS Ł29; 3rd person+ Ł65 off pp

 


 

 

 

 

 

Add ons

Köveskál option

 Ł25 (sgl. suppl. Ł32)

Further nights in Köveskál

Ł44 (sgl. suppl. Ł35)

Further nights in Keszthely

Ł17 (sgl. suppl. Ł10)
Shared taxi from Balaton-Sármellék airport to first hotel 1.5 hrs

 

Ł54 for 1 person, Ł59 for 2 ? Ł133 for 8

Shared taxi from Keszthely hotel to Balaton-Sármellék airport c. 20 mins

 

 

Ł5 per person

Shared taxi from Budapest-Ferihegy airport to first hotel 1.5 hrs

 

Ł54 for 1 person, Ł59 for 2 ? Ł133 for 8

Shared taxi from Keszthely hotel to Budapest or Budapest-Ferihegy airport 2.5 hrs

 

(Ł54 for 1 person, Ł59 for 2 ? Ł133 for 8)

Arrange locally

Local buses/taxis as required

 

Picture gallery
Day 2 - Picnicing above Balaton
Day 2 - Sunset over Lake Balaton
Day 2 - Tihany
Day 3 - View from Zardorvar
Day 3 - Wine maker field
Day 4 - Into the valley...
Day 7 - Keszthely Balaton
How to get there:

Fly to Balaton (Ba) or Budapest (Bu)

 

(All flights are subject to change at short notice - please check carefully before you book your holiday)

 

From:

 

Belfast Aer Lingus (Bu);

Bristol Ryanair (Bu);

Cork Malev Hungarian airlines (Bu);

Dublin Ryanair (Bu), Aer Lingus (Bu), Malev Hungarian airlines (Bu);

East Midlands Airport Ryanair (Bu);

Gatwick Easyjet (Bu);

Glasgow Ryanair (Bu);

Heathrow BA (Bu), Malev Hungarian airlines (Bu);

Liverpool Ryanair (Bu);

Luton BA (Bu), Easyjet (Bu), Malev Hungarian airlines (Bu), Wizzair (Bu);

Manchester Jet2 (Bu);

Stansted Air Berlin (Bu), Ryanair (Ba) 

 

Typical rail journey:

London: 17:40 Eurostar to Paris (N), walk 10 mins to Paris (E) for 21.47 sleeper to Munich, 09:28 to Budapest, arrive 16:32.  17:12 to Veszprém arrive 18:47. ~ 24 hrs

 

Keszthely: 15:07 to Celldömölk, 17:00 to Györ,  then sleeper to Zürich, 07.02 TGV to Paris (E), walk to Paris Nord, 13:01 Eurostar to London arrive 14:57. ~23 hrs

 

Getting to the start of the walk:

The first hotel is in Veszprém and the last in Keszthely. Best airport is Balaton-Sármellék, but Budapest-Ferihegy also possible.

 

Balaton-Sármellék:

Land by: 16:00 (no time limit if using taxi)

Outward: Bus (change Hévíz) 2 hrs (c. €10 pp)

 

OPTION: Pre booked shared taxi from Balaton-Sármellék airport to first hotel 1.5 hrs 

 

Return:  Keszthely to Balaton-Sármellék airport by airport bus approx. 40 mins (c. €4)

 

OPTION: Pre booked shared taxi from Keszthely hotel to Balaton-Sármellék airport c. 20 mins 

 

Return Flight earliest: 10:00 am

 

Budapest-Ferihegy:

 

Land By: 16:00

Outward:  Bus/train/taxi to Veszprém 4 hrs (c. €10)
 
OPTION: Pre booked shared taxi from Budapest-Ferihegy airport to first hotel 1.5 hrs 

 

Return: Keszthely to Budapest-Ferihegy by train c. 4 hrs (c. €15)

 

OPTION: Pre booked shared taxi from Keszthely hotel to Budapest or Budapest-Ferihegy airport 2.5 hrs

 

For pre-bookable taxi prices, see "Price includes"

 

Return Flight earliest:  15:00 (no time limit if using taxi)

 

Nearest Railway Stations:
Start:  Veszprém
Finish: Keszthely

 

Highlights
  •  Vineyards and volcanoes
  •  The ferryboat to Tihany
  •  Wine-grower's lunch at Nyálo-hegy
  •  A dip in the pool at Köveskál
  •  The wooded hills of Lake Balaton
  •  Supper al fresco at the Gabriella
  •  Kesthely's Baroque chateau