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| Day 5 - Approaching Csobanc | |
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Route summary |
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Ł550.00 (2008)
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7 nights (7 B&B) |
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Easy - Medium |
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6 - 8 hours |
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Vineyards, oak woods, and the unruffled lake
North of Hungary’s only large expanse of water, Lake Balaton, away from the tourist bustle of the shore, lies a quiet range of hills, the Balaton Uplands. The landscape around is a strange one, with wooded hills rolling down to fertile lowlands punctuated by extinct picture-book volcanoes. In these hills the traveller finds Hungarian history and culture in microcosm.
Our walk takes you from historic Veszprém through the woods above the lake to Tihany, a lake peninsula crowned by a monastery. On then, via a little luxury at a stylish pension in Koveskal, and finally Keszthely, back at the lakeside, with its fine chateau and bustling streets.
7 night Options:
Full walk: 6 days' walking, spend one night in each hotel including Sümeg.
Kesthely Option: (recommended): 5 days' walking (miss Sümeg) plus final day in Keszthely (2 nights).
Köveskál Option: 5 days' walking (miss Sümeg) plus rest day in middle at Köveskál (2 nights) (supplement).
OR why not choose 6- or 5-night options and spend some time in Budapest? | | |
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Gyorgy Zsiga and Erzsébet Penzes
Gyorgy ("George") is already known to On Foot walkers as a map designer for Kate Clow's Lycian Way book, and in between spends his time travelling and pondering life. His partner in this venture, Erzsébet, is a tourism don at the Univerity of Pannonia, who when not also raising two young daughters, assisted in the project. |
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Hours per Day: 6 - 8 hours
A walk designed with the day-long ambler in mind. Recommended walk 5 days plus rest day, 6 day walk also available. Taxi/bus shortening options available most days. | | |
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| Terrain |
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Difficulty: easy-medium
Most paths are signed on the ground, but some navigation needed in woodland. A few short steep stretches, but mainly easy gradients. Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 335m per day.
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| Our recommended start dates |
| September 2008 |
1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 , 9 , 10 , 11 , 12 , 13 , 14 , 15 , 16 , 17 , 18 , 19 , 20 , 21 , 22 , 23 , 24 , 25 , 26 , 27 , 28 , 29 , 30 |
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| October 2008 |
1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 , 9 , 10 , 11 , 12 , 13 , 14 , 15 , 16 , 17 , 18 , 19 , 20 , 21 , 22 , 23 , 24 , 25 , 26 , 27 , 28 , 29 , 30 , 31
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For other possible start dates see chart below |
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| Day 1 |
Transfer to the first hotel in Veszprém. Freshen up, have a good wander around the old town and the castle hill. |
| Day 2 |
Veszprém to Tihany. a walk through oak woods to the ferry pier, relax with an ice cream and wait for the ferry to Tihany (bus in the off-season). (18 km, 7 hrs, CUSs 200m) |
| Day 3 |
Tihany to Nagyvázsony. Across the peninsula to the old lavender fields and through the open hill country to a wine-tasting lunch at the Mészáros vineyard. After lunch, a climb up to the ancient castle of Zádorvár, and downhill to your pension at Nagyvázsony, with its splendid castle. (24 km, 7 hrs, CUSs 350m). Alternative save 2 or 4 hrs walking by travelling with the luggage. |
| Day 4 |
Nagyvázsony to Köveskál. A day of contrasts. Starting from the castle at Nagyvázsony, the path leads quickly to the remarkable ruined monastery of Pálos Kolostor, before winding through the quiet valley of Vázsony-séd. Climb Hegyes-tu, a slab of basalt rising high above the plain, and finish with a quiet amble into Köveskál and your little bit of luxury in the form of the Káli Art Inn. (22 km, 6 hrs 20 mins, CUSs 275m). Alternative save 3˝ hrs by travelling with the luggage.
Köveskál option: Choose to relax by the pool or wander up into the hills around, using the maps provided (we particularly like the traditional village of Balatonhenye) or arrange an activity with your host - perhaps some painting, or some carriage riding or … see http://www.kaliartinn.com |
| Day 5 |
Köveskál to Tapolca. Scale two hills and explore a rock-sea. Your next hotel sits by the town fish pond. (7 hrs, 23 km, or 6 hrs, 18 km plus final bus ride into town, CUSs 550m) Alternative: ride with the luggage and save 2 or 3 hrs |
| Day 6 |
Tapolca to Sümeg. An easy day’s walking across the open ground north of Tapolca and into the oak woods. Accommodation in an authentic fogadó under the castle in Sümeg. (23.6 km, 6˝ hrs, CUSs 200m) Alternative: Ride with the luggage to Ódörögd (save 2 hrs) |
| Day 7 |
Sümeg to Keszthely. From Sümeg, a day of woodland walking or from Tapolca, after a bus ride, a more open start through vineyards to the oakwoods. Your goal, Keszthely and its fine chateau. (From Sümeg, 30 km, 8 hrs, CUSs 400m). Note: clients missing out Sumeg have a 23 km/6˝ hrs walk from Tapolca to Keszthely |
| Day 8 |
Depart for home (or choose to stay further nights, with a visit to Hévíz thermal waters nearby, or perhaps a few days in Budapest) | | | |
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| Where you'll stay |
| All en-suite unless otherwise stated | |
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Night 1 Veszprém: (B&B) A renovated hotel in a quiet street in the town centre, with busy restaurant | |
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Night 2 Tihany: (B&B) Friendly little 'panzio' on the edge of the village | |
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Night 3 Nagyvázsony: (B&B) Informal restaurant-with-rooms and small pool in the centre of the village | |
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Night 4 Koveskal: (B&B) Former officers' billet now converted to stylish country house panzio with pool and grounds | |
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Night 5 Tapolca: (B&B) Pretty hotel on the edge of the former town fish pond | |
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Night 6 Sümeg: (B&B) Very basic fogado under castle | |
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Night 7 Keszthely: (B&B) Comfortable panzio in the centre of the old town with good restaurant | | | |
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Total 7 nights in shared room, all breakfasts, luggage transfers, 5 picnics and one vineyard lunch with wine, and taxi from first hotel to start of walk.
Savings and supplements
Single Room Supplement Ł90
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement Ł40 3rd person and over Ł90 off per person
3+ bedded rooms - call us for savings
Shorter breaks
6 nights (miss night 7) Ł500; SRS Ł78; LTAS Ł40; 3rd person+ Ł77 off pp
5 nights (miss nights 1 & 7) Ł455; SRS Ł65; LTAS Ł29; 3rd person+ Ł65 off pp
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Köveskál option |
Ł25 (sgl. suppl. Ł32) |
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Further nights in Köveskál |
Ł44 (sgl. suppl. Ł35) |
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Further nights in Keszthely |
Ł17 (sgl. suppl. Ł10) |
| Shared taxi from Balaton-Sármellék airport to first hotel 1.5 hrs |
Ł54 for 1 person, Ł59 for 2 ? Ł133 for 8 |
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Shared taxi from Keszthely hotel to Balaton-Sármellék airport c. 20 mins |
Ł5 per person |
| Shared taxi from Budapest-Ferihegy airport to first hotel 1.5 hrs |
Ł54 for 1 person, Ł59 for 2 ? Ł133 for 8 |
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Shared taxi from Keszthely hotel to Budapest or Budapest-Ferihegy airport 2.5 hrs |
(Ł54 for 1 person, Ł59 for 2 ? Ł133 for 8) |
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Arrange locally
Local buses/taxis as required |
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| Day 2 - Picnicing above Balaton | |
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| Day 2 - Sunset over Lake Balaton | |
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| Day 2 - Tihany | |
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| Day 3 - View from Zardorvar | |
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| Day 3 - Wine maker field | |
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| Day 4 - Into the valley... | |
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| Day 7 - Keszthely Balaton | | | |
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Fly to Balaton (Ba) or Budapest (Bu)
(All flights are subject to change at short notice - please check carefully before you book your holiday)
From:
Belfast Aer Lingus (Bu);
Bristol Ryanair (Bu);
Cork Malev Hungarian airlines (Bu);
Dublin Ryanair (Bu), Aer Lingus (Bu), Malev Hungarian airlines (Bu);
East Midlands Airport Ryanair (Bu);
Gatwick Easyjet (Bu);
Glasgow Ryanair (Bu);
Heathrow BA (Bu), Malev Hungarian airlines (Bu);
Liverpool Ryanair (Bu);
Luton BA (Bu), Easyjet (Bu), Malev Hungarian airlines (Bu), Wizzair (Bu);
Manchester Jet2 (Bu);
Stansted Air Berlin (Bu), Ryanair (Ba)
Typical rail journey:
London: 17:40 Eurostar to Paris (N), walk 10 mins to Paris (E) for 21.47 sleeper to Munich, 09:28 to Budapest, arrive 16:32. 17:12 to Veszprém arrive 18:47. ~ 24 hrs
Keszthely: 15:07 to Celldömölk, 17:00 to Györ, then sleeper to Zürich, 07.02 TGV to Paris (E), walk to Paris Nord, 13:01 Eurostar to London arrive 14:57. ~23 hrs
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| Getting to the start of the walk: |
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The first hotel is in Veszprém and the last in Keszthely. Best airport is Balaton-Sármellék, but Budapest-Ferihegy also possible.
Balaton-Sármellék:
Land by: 16:00 (no time limit if using taxi)
Outward: Bus (change Hévíz) 2 hrs (c. €10 pp)
OPTION: Pre booked shared taxi from Balaton-Sármellék airport to first hotel 1.5 hrs
Return: Keszthely to Balaton-Sármellék airport by airport bus approx. 40 mins (c. €4)
OPTION: Pre booked shared taxi from Keszthely hotel to Balaton-Sármellék airport c. 20 mins
Return Flight earliest: 10:00 am
Budapest-Ferihegy:
Land By: 16:00
Outward: Bus/train/taxi to Veszprém 4 hrs (c. €10) OPTION: Pre booked shared taxi from Budapest-Ferihegy airport to first hotel 1.5 hrs
Return: Keszthely to Budapest-Ferihegy by train c. 4 hrs (c. €15)
OPTION: Pre booked shared taxi from Keszthely hotel to Budapest or Budapest-Ferihegy airport 2.5 hrs
For pre-bookable taxi prices, see "Price includes"
Return Flight earliest: 15:00 (no time limit if using taxi)
Nearest Railway Stations: Start: Veszprém Finish: Keszthely
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- Vineyards and volcanoes
- The ferryboat to Tihany
- Wine-grower's lunch at Nyálo-hegy
- A dip in the pool at Köveskál
- The wooded hills of Lake Balaton
- Supper al fresco at the Gabriella
- Kesthely's Baroque chateau
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