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Route summary |
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£535.00 (2008)
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7 nights 6 nights B&B, 1 Half board |
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Medium - Hard |
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3½ - 7 hours |
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What previous customers have
said about this walk
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“The terrain was even more scenic and
(apparently) remote than we had anticipated.”
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“We were amazed by the warmth of the welcome we received in all the villages.”
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“We were mesmerized by the
breathtaking scenery.”
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Walking holidays, tours and vacations in Northern Portugal
The hill country of Peneda Geres
Northern Portugal is relatively little known and has only recently been discovered by walkers. Hidden away in the golden hills and lush green valleys of the Peneda-Gerês national park are delightful villages where rural communities continue a lifestyle that is centuries old. These villages, where the farmers keep long-horned cattle fed on maize, grown on ancient terraces and stored in distinctive granite espigueiros, are linked by old paved tracks and footpaths that penetrate wild uplands reaching up to 1500m. It is these footpaths that you will use.
There is a wonderful sense of remoteness here, even though you are never more than a couple of kilometres away from a village or hamlet, and you may walk for hours without seeing anyone else. But feast also on bacalhau at the remarkable Restaurant Abocanhado (Night 4), visit Lindoso Castle, walk a day’s march along a Roman road high above the valley, and end with a stay in a magnificent old monastery, now converted into a top quality hotel.
While in the region, stay a day or two in enchanting and historic Porto at On Foot’s hotel choice, a short bus ride from the centre at quiet Foz do Douro. | | |
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Paul and Denise Burton
The Burtons have lived in Northern Portugal for over 25 years and have been keen walkers ever since arriving in the area. They are the authors of Sunflower’s "Landscapes of Northern Portugal". |
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Hours walking per day: 3½ - 7 (shorter and longer options available most days)
Medium length walks of between 10 and 20 km, with shorter options and with two longer options (days 4 and 6) | | |
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| Terrain |
Difficulty: medium-hard Most walking along paths and granite paved tracks. Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 505m per day. Day 4 (longest option) responsible for the “hard” part of the grading (can be shortened/omitted). | | |
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| Our recommended start dates |
| September 2008 |
1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 , 9 , 10 , 11 , 12 , 13 , 14 , 15 , 16 , 17 , 18 , 19 , 20 , 21 , 22 , 23 , 24 , 25 , 26 , 27 , 28 , 29 , 30 |
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| October 2008 |
1 , 2 , 3 , 4 , 5 , 6 , 7 , 8 , 9 , 10 , 11 , 12 , 13 , 14 , 15 , 16 , 17 , 18 , 19 , 20 , 21 , 22 , 23 , 24 , 25 , 26 , 27 , 28 , 29 , 30 , 31
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| Day 1 |
Arrive in Soajo. Freshen up, have a wander around the village, examine your first espigueiros cluster and decide which restaurant to eat in before a good night’s sleep. |
| Day 2 |
A Soajo circuit. Uphill first on good paths, you reach the hamlet of Adrão. Then choose an easy or a challenging route back to Soajo. (18 km, 5½ hrs, CUSs 606m) Shorter/easier circuit possible. |
| Day 3 |
Soajo to Lindoso. An easy day’s walking along old paths in the river valley before climbing up to the well-preserved castle, lording over the attractive village and its espigueiros, nestling like chicks in its protective embrace. (11½ km, 3½ hrs, CUSs 450m) |
| Day 4 |
Lindoso - Brufe. For the determined walker, the unshortened route is tough but rewarding, up in the wild Serra Amarela, before dropping down steeply to cross the spectacular Ribeira de Carcerelha. Then up to the mountain village of Germil, and up again before heading down through steadily gentler country to your accommodation at Brufe, and an evening meal at Brufe’s renowned Restaurant Abocanhado. (30 km, 8 hrs, CUSs 1240m). There are several shorter/easier options of between 2 and 6 hrs |
| Day 5 |
Brufe - Campo Gerês. From lovely Brufe the walk drops down steeply through old terraces to the Roman bridge over the Rio Homem. Then climb up through attractive woodland along a ridge to the village of Campo Gerês, and your hotel. Extend your walk to the old drowned village of Vilarinho. (10½ km, 3½ hrs, or 16 km, 5hrs, CUSs 290m) |
| Day 6 |
Campo Gerês - Emaús. Walk along the old Roman road (Braga to Astorga) as it contours around the hillside, gently descending towards Chorense and Emaús. The walking is easy, generally on a level grassy surface, with Roman mileposts along the way. At Emaús, your charming pension and a swim in the garden pool (in season). (24½ km, 7 hrs, or shorter option, CUSs 40m) |
| Day 7 |
Emaús - Santa Maria do Bouro. After a steep climb back to the Roman road a more gentle climb to the pass at Alto Moraço. From here the walking is now steadily downhill through woods and fields to the former monastery, now Pousada Santa Maria do Bouro, a stylish end to your holiday and with the promise of a swim in the pool and an excellent meal.(15 km, 4 hrs, CUSs 400m) |
| Day 8 |
Depart hotel or choose to stay further nights, or why not go to Porto and explore its charms, visit a port lodge and stay in our little hotel at Foz? | | | |
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| Where you'll stay |
| All en-suite unless otherwise stated | |
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Night 1 & 2 Soajo: (B&B) Old converted village house with traditional kitchen | |
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Night 3 Lindoso: (B&B) Well converted village house | |
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Night 4 Brufe: (B&B) Characterful village cottage | |
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Night 5 Campo Geres: (B&B) Modern inn with good restaurant and pool | |
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Night 6 Emaus: (HB) Converted village house with lovely garden and pool | |
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Night 7 Santa Maria do Bouro: (B&B) Exquisite conversion of 13th century monastery with fine restaurant and pool | |
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Night 8 (extra) Porto: (B&B) Elegant hotel at quiet Foz do Douro (20 mins bus from centre) | | | |
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Total 7 nights in shared room, all breakfasts, luggage transfers, 4 picnics and 1 evening meal Savings and supplements
Single Room Supplement £135
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement £30
3rd person and over £75 off per person
3+ bedded rooms - call us for savings
Shorter breaks
6 nights (miss night 2) £505; SRS £103; LTAS £27; 3rd person+ £65 off pp
5 nights (miss nights 1 & 2) £475; SRS £85; LTAS £23; 3rd person+ £55 off pp
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| Extra nights in Santa Maria do Bouro |
£69 (sgl. suppl £55) |
| Nights in Porto (sea view room) |
£35 (sgl. suppl. £24)
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Taxi transfer from Porto airport to the first hotel 2 hrs |
£85 (1-4 people) |
| Taxi transfer from the final hotel on the walk to Porto airport 1½ hrs |
£60 (1-4 people) |
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Taxi transfer from final hotel on the walk to Porto hotel 2 hrs |
£70 (1-4 people) |
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Arrange locally
Local bus/taxi/train as required |
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| Day 2 - Espigueiros above Soajo | |
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| Day 3 - Never short of company (Dave Allen) | |
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| Day 4 - In the wild Serra Amarela | |
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| Day 4 - Terraces above Cutelo | |
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| Day 5 - A perfect place for a picnic (Dave Allen) | |
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| Day 5 - Looking down into the valley below... | |
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| Day 5 - Looking towards Brufe | |
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| Day 5 - Looking towards Cutelo | |
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| Day 5 - The hills above Campo Geres | |
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| Day 6 - Amazing views from the Roman Road | |
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| Day 6 - Marching along... | |
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| Day 6 - Over the Homem valley | |
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| Day 6 - Roman milestones | |
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| Day 6 - Watermill above Covide | |
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| Day 7 - Approaching the monastery | | | |
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Fly to Porto
(All flights are subject to change at short notice - please check carefully before you book your holiday)
From:
Birmingham Ryanair;
Bristol Ryanair;
Dublin Ryanair;
Heathrow TAP Air Portugal;
Gatwick TAP Air Portugal;
Liverpool Ryanair;
Stansted Ryanair
Other indirect flights.
Typical rail journey
London: 11:05 Eurostar to Paris (N), metro to Paris (Mp) for 15:50 TGV to Irun. 22:00 night train to Coimbra-B, for 09:31 Intercity to Porto, local train to Braga, arrive 11:58. ~25 hrs.
Braga: 15:30 train to Porto & 16:52 Intercity to Coimbra-B for 18:26 night train to Hendaye (07:10). Take 07:56 TGV to Paris (Mp) and transfer to Paris (N) by metro for 15:20 Eurostar to London, arrive 17:33. ~26 hrs.
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| Getting to the start of the walk: |
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The first hotel is in Soajo and the last walking hotel is near Amares. Best airport is Porto.
Porto airport:
Land by: 12:00 hrs (later arrivals possible but connections/journey time may mean missing supper - no time limit if using taxi).
Outward: Various combinations of public transport with taxi options possible: 2-4 hrs OPTION: Pre-booked taxi transfer from Porto airport to the first hotel 2 hrs Return: Local taxi to Braga then train to Porto (2 hrs), metro to airport (c.30 mins) (c. €18). Local taxi from Foz do Douro extra nights hotel (45 mins, c. €16) OPTION: Pre-booked taxi transfer from the final hotel on the walk to Porto airport 1½ hrs
OPTION: Pre-booked taxi transfer from final hotel on the walk to Porto hotel 2 hrs
Return flight earliest: 09:00 (no time limit if using pre-booked taxi or staying on in Porto)
For pre-bookable taxi prices, see "Price includes"
Nearest railway station: Start: Braga (then bus to Arcos de Valdevez) Finish: Braga (short taxi ride)
IMPORTANT: Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you. | | |
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- The granite hills of the Peneda Gerês national park
- Terraces and espigueiros
- Old villages and older ways of life
- Ancient paved footpaths and the Via Romana
- Lindoso Castle
- The terrace of the Restaurant Abocanhado
- The Pousada Santa Maria do Bouro
- Historic Porto, the Port lodges and the Douro (add-on)
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"We loved the remoteness of the mountains and enjoyed the most fabulous views."
"Complete peace and tranquillity!"
"What lovely, warm people - nothing was too much bother."
"I will never forget the taste of freshly-picked oranges for breakfast."
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