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Dolomites
From the South Tyrol to Cortina
Back to RoutesTravellers Blog
More reasons to walk the mighty Dolomites
Thursday 3rd January | Posted by On Foot Staff
view articleAt a glance
7-night version (6 days walking) - the full route. Extra nights possible throughout. For June/early July and late September bookings see 5-night all-season version. See 'Prices' tab for what's included.
Suggested route pairing: Lake Maggiore
How much walking?
Full days: 8-18 km per day, 3½-7 hrs walking
Using shortening options: 6-13 km per day, 2½-4½ hrs (using ski-lifts and buses to reduce walking)
From remote South Tyrol to sophisticated Cortina
This self-guided mountain holiday combines two of the most attractive areas in the Italian Alps. The South Tyrol (Süd-Tirol) is a German-speaking enclave in Italy, a landscape of bucolic meadows and beer gardens. Start in the pretty town of San Candido (Innichen), and limber up on the first day with a circular walk which takes in the wide sweep of the valley of the incipient River Drava. The real walking begins on leaving San Candido, first to a remote refuge, and then, via the Tre Cime mountain at 2250m, into the Italian Dolomites at lakeside Misurina. The culture is now Italian, the wine from the Veneto. Walk through breathtaking scenery to the smart resort of Cortina, famed for skiing but best seen in its panoramic bowl in the summer. The week finishes with a climb to Lagazuoi and the open-air World War I museum. You’ll end your holiday fitter and supremely satisfied.
Walked by On Foot staff: Simon, helped by Mark, and Mary
Consider pairing this route with Lake Maggiore (7 hours – bus to Venice then train) – for more details click here. Recommended overnight stop: Venice, Padua, Verona or Milan.
REVIEWS: For independent walker reviews submitted to the Association of Independent Tour Operators visit Aito.com.
TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to Italy, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency.
Route Highlights
- The dreaming meadows of the South Tyrol
- A night in a mountain refuge (until 15th September)
- The high Tre Cime and the flower-strewn walk to Misurina
- The Lake at Misurina (1700m)
- Fresh milk from mountain herds
- Lunch at the Malga Larieto
- Sophisticated Cortina
- World War I trenches and museum at Lagazuoi
This route features the following characteristics and interests: Mountains, Drive to route, History
Things you should know
- Long transfers at either end mean that careful planning at the outset is required.
- A very short walking season (July to September) means that the paths and hotels can be busy and expensive, so try to travel at either end of the season and avoid August.
- The full walk from the refuge to Misurina is very long with a substantial climb (shortening options available).
- There are shared bathrooms at the refuge – if this isn’t for you, then choose the option that bypasses the refuge.
- Weather will be variable – you are in the mountains!
We Recommend
Combining this walk with a trip to Salzburg, Verona or Venice. Staying a further night in Cortina at the end, or by the lake at Misurina. For the more adventurous, Cortina has several via ferrata nearby which you may like to consider while you're in the area (not bookable through On Foot).
Eating and Drinking
Watch out for the distinctions between the German-Alpine (Tyrolean) cooking at the start, and the Italian-Alpine at the end. From dumplings to pasta in a week. The food is always good and sometimes exceptional.
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: 6-13 km per day, 2½-4½ hrs (using ski-lifts and buses to reduce walking)
Steep paths on some days, with some lengthy ups and downs, and a couple of spots where vertigo may be an issue for some. Paths generally well marked, though attention to written route directions required. Highest point on route: 2,450m.
Medium-hard: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 815m (565m-1150m) per day.
Easy-medium: CUSs 520m (140m – 820m) using ski-lifts and buses to shorten/ease walking.
Acrophobia/vertigo warnings: This is a mountain route with some balcony paths with steep drops (Refuge to Misurina mainly). Not suitable for severely acrophobic.
GPX file available for handheld GPS or smartphone App for complete route.
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
The best months to walk: July, August, September
Early booking is essential on this route, particularly between late July and early September.
The Dolomites are at their best in the summer, and furthermore the bus and lift timetables and hotel opening dates circumscribe our season. So go in July for the early flowers and hopefully best weather (though snow can be a problem – see below), and September for lonely walking (again with the possibility of snow). The lifts and some refuges close after mid-September so be prepared for the full walk and for carrying your own supplies. August is very busy due to a lack of hotel (and Refuge) availability (and it’s also very expensive). The last week of June is also possible but we suggest this only for last minute bookers when we know what the situation on the ground is.
SNOW. It can snow at any time of the year, so be aware that you may have to miss out on the Tre Cime day in whole or part.
Please note: Cortina is preparing for the Winter Olympics that are to be held there in February 2026, and is undergoing construction works which slightly mar the beauty of the town.
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Temperature and rainfall chart for Cortina
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrival day
Arrive in San Candido (also known as Innichen), check in to your hotel and then have a wander round the attractive centre before your first taste of the local cuisine.
Day 2 - San Candido Circuit
Starting off on the south side of the “Pusteria”, the woodland track (full of orchids in July) climbs steadily through woods with pretty views. After lunch at a restaurant in Versciaco (if desired), the second part of this walk is extremely pretty with wonderful views over the Pusteria and the Dolomites beyond. (Medium-hard: 4 hrs walking (allow 5¼ hrs), 12 km (7½ miles), CUSs 670m)
Alternative: You can shorten the walk (and make it easier) by using the valley bus (see timetables with walkers pack).
Day 3 - San Candido to Drei Schuster Hütte
The first part of this walk is along the river Rienza out of San Candido and then up through the woods past the Bagni di San Candido. Here there are two options – an easier walk for when the weather is inclement and the main route, which most of you will follow for the better views. After a climb of almost 600 metres, you will emerge above San Candido on a good track that gently undulates high above the Val Camp di Dentro, with wonderful views across the valley to the 3000m+ peaks of the Punta dei Tre Scarperi. (Medium-hard: 4 hrs walking (allow 5¼ hrs), 11 km (7 miles), CUSs 860m, or use chairlift at start to gain height – Easy-medium: 2½ hrs walking (allow 3¼ hrs), 6 km (4 miles), CUSs 510m).
Day 4 - Drei Schuster Hütte to Misurina
You’ll need a good breakfast before tackling the steep uphill on narrow paths to the Tre Cime at 2400 metres (note: this is rightly one of the most famous and most accessible mountains in the Dolomites, so for an hour or so you will most definitely not be alone). After lunch, your path leaves the crowds behind and descends swiftly to the stunning col of the Forcella Arghena (maybe stop along the way at Malga Langealmhütte for a glass of fresh milk from their herd). This is the perfect Alpine meadow, with added WW1 trenches for the historically inclined. The descent from the col is by the original WW1 track built to supply the trenches – running through meadowed woodland and eventually deeper forest before emerging above Misurina. Wonderful views throughout this secluded corner of the Dolomites. (Hard: 7 hrs walking (allow 9¼ hrs), 17¼ km (11 miles), CUSs 1150m). For less experienced walkers – take the easier alternative via San Candido with bus/taxi to start (Medium: 3¼ hrs walking (allow 4¼ hrs), 10 km (6½ miles), CUSs 530m) or ride whole way.
Day 5 - Rifugio Citta di Carpi Circuit
Today’s walk takes you through a lovely forest with plenty of rhododendron, and heads gradually uphill until it reaches the amazingly-sited Rifugio di Città di Carpi. Linger here awhile for the panoramic views and a little off-piste exploration (your maps show plenty of tempting paths), before descending back to Misurina via the Col de Varda hut (in case you’re in need of further refreshment) and then continuing the rest of the way on foot, or by chairlift if you’ve had enough. (Medium-hard: 4½ hrs walking (allow 6 hrs), 13 km (8 miles), CUSs 750m)
Alternatives: We recommend taking a trip to the Monte Piana 1st World War Museum. There’s a regular jeep service that can take you there and back – ask your host for details and see leaflet in your pack. www.montepiana.com. Pay locally.
Day 6 - Misurina to Cortina
Today’s walk begins with an easy walk along a wide cycle track just to get you warmed up. You then join a lovely woodland path that ascends (quite gently after the first short haul) to Ponte Rondvoi. It’s a short walk along the road before rejoining a woodland path that takes you past Mussolini’s antitank defences and then onto the Passo Tre Croci.
For a pre-lunch refresher Bar Son Zuogo at the pass has a very short season and does not seem to open in June or after mid-September. Malga Larieto is an excellent lunch option (until September) and time should be allowed for a stop here.
The prettier walk is definitely the second half, which is on mainly narrow wooded and mountain paths with a long highly panoramic section. It climbs briefly but is broadly level for the panoramic section and then descends approximately 600 metres, sometimes fairly sharply. Its views of the Cortina bowl offer a fitting climax to your holiday walking. (Medium: 6½ hrs walking (allow 8¾ hrs), 18¾ km (11½ miles), CUSs 565m, or with lift halfway Easy: 3½ hrs walking (allow 4¾ hrs), 9½ km (6 miles), CUSs 140m)
Day 7 - Lagazuoi Circuit
An absolute gem of a walk, combining some of the best views the Dolomites has to offer with the chance to visit the open air First World War museum at the summit and its trenches, tunnels and huts carved into the mountain.
Following a transfer by bus to the Falzarego Pass, you soon leave the hordes behind (they take the more direct track up the mountain) and join a pretty path with lovely views across to 5 Torri. Explore the extensive remains of the Italian military hospital before joining a military road that climbs to Rozes. The landscape definitely changes as you reach the Col de Bos – dramatic summits and valleys, littered with trenches and other remains of the bloody conflict.
The final climb to the refuge at Lagazuoi looks impossible but don’t shirk it – you ascend the ridge in gentle zigzags and can soon explore the huts, tunnels and trenches the Austrian army used. Save time for a much-deserved refreshment in the refuge before taking the cable car back down to Falzarego Pass and the bus back to Cortina. A very satisfying day. (Medium-hard: 3½ hrs walking (allow 4¾ hrs), 8 km (5 miles), CUSs 820m)
Departure day
Return home, or stay longer in Cortina, or spend a night or two in Verona, Innsbruck, Salzburg or Venice (depending on your route back home).
Travel Information
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Nearest railway station:
Start: San Candido
Finish: Dobbiaco or Calalzo (pre-bookable taxi from Cortina available)
Sample rail journey via Paris, Munich and Innsbruck
Intercity train Paris Gare de l’Est to Stuttgart, then Eurocity train for Fortezza via Munich and Innsbruck. Local train to San Candido. ~10 hrs
Also possible via Venice and Verona.
Return from Dobbiaco: Local train to Fortezza, Eurocity train via Innsbruck to Munich, then either the night train to Paris, or change at Stuttgart to Paris. ~10 hrs travel time (non-sleeper train); ~14 hrs (using sleeper train).
We suggest thetrainline.com for times, ticket booking and other information.
ARRIVING BY CAR
Park in San Candido ski lift car park (no charge, own risk). Return from Cortina at end by bus x 2 or taxi (see “prices”).
ARRIVING BY AIR
The nearest airports are Innsbruck, Salzburg, Verona and Venice Treviso. International flights use Venice Marco Polo, Milan, or conceivably Munich or Vienna with overnight stay unless very early flight/later departure. Check with On Foot Holidays about transfers from Milan/Vienna/Munich (for Venice see below).
Land by: Innsbruck 15:30; Salzburg 12:00; Verona 14:00; Venice Treviso or Venice Marco Polo 12:00 for public transport connections to San Candido (4-6 hrs) (Venice/Treviso part private transfer – see below).
Return flight earliest: Innsbruck 15:00; Munich 17:00; Salzburg 17:30; Verona 16:30; Venice Marco Polo or Treviso 17:30 for public transport connections from Cortina.
Note: For flights falling outside these times, some itinerary adjustment may be desirable, and/or overnight stays near the airport as transfer times can be long. Call On Foot for advice.
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.
See “Getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information.
Getting to the start of the walk
The first hotel is in San Candido (Innichen) and the last in Cortina.
For train arrivals see below:
Transfers from/to train stations:
Outward: 15 mins flat walk from San Candido station to first hotel.
Return: Bus (40 mins) OR Pre-booked taxi transfer (30 mins) from Cortina to Dobbiaco, similarly to Calalzo (bus 60 mins, taxi 45 mins). Note: Limited daily express bus service from Cortina to Venice Mestre station (~€25).
Transfer times and methods are suggested below for the four nearest airports (in order – Innsbruck is the nearest but Verona has more flights). Due to the distance from the airports and the timing of flights it is unlikely that many clients will be able to reach San Candido on the same day as their flight arrival OR to fly home on the same day as leaving Cortina, at least if using public transport the whole way. Care should be taken to ensure that your transfer plans work and have a reasonable margin for inevitable delays.
INNSBRUCK AIRPORT:
Outward: Airport bus (10 mins) to Innsbruck then train to San Candido (3 hrs) + 15 mins walk to hotel.
Return: Bus (40 mins) OR Pre-booked taxi transfer (30 mins) from Cortina to Dobbiaco, then train to Innsbruck (3 hrs) + airport bus (10 mins).
VERONA AIRPORT:
Outward: Airport bus to Verona (30 mins) then train to San Candido (4 hrs) + 15 mins walk to hotel.
Return: Bus (40 mins) OR Pre-booked taxi transfer (30 mins) from Cortina to Dobbiaco, then train to Verona (4 hrs) + airport bus (30 mins).
SALZBURG AIRPORT:
Outward: Airport bus to Salzburg (20 mins) then train to San Candido (4½ hrs) + 15 mins walk to hotel.
Return: Bus (40 mins) OR Pre-booked taxi transfer (30 mins) from Cortina to Dobbiaco, then train to Salzburg (5 hrs) + airport bus (20 mins).
VENICE TREVISO AIRPORT:
Outward: Local bus (20 mins) to Treviso then train to San Candido via Mestre and Verona (6 hrs), OR Pre-booked taxi transfer direct from airport to San Candido (3 hrs).
Return: Direct express bus from Cortina to Treviso (limited daily service, ~€20) then local taxi to airport (20mins) OR Pre-booked taxi transfer direct from Cortina to airport (2½ hrs)
VENICE MARCO POLO AIRPORT:
Outward: Local bus (17 mins) to Venice Mestre then train to San Candido via Verona (5 hrs), OR Pre-booked taxi transfer direct from airport to San Candido (3 hrs).
Return: Direct express bus from Cortina to airport (limited daily service) OR Pre-booked taxi transfer direct from Cortina to airport (2 hrs).
Additional option: VIENNA. Contact us for advice.
For pre-bookable taxi prices see “Prices”.
Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information.
Where You'll Stay
The first two-nights are spent in a smart hotel in San Candido and are then followed by a night in a refuge (you will need to carry your night things for a couple of days, and do without your tiaras), and two nights at a family run hotel by a mountain lake (choice of two). Your night/s in Cortina are spent in a small, boutique hotel.
Night 1 & 2
San Candido – Posthotel (dinner, B&B)
A comfortable, newly renovated family run hotel in the middle of the old town. Pool.
Night 3
Val Campo di Dentro – Drei Schuster Hutte (dinner, B&B)
Traditional refuge in a remote valley. See 'More Information' below for details.
Prices
Total 7 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 2 evening meals, luggage transfers (except refuge night); full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support. You will pay locally for the refuge on departure ~€85 per person, half board.
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in early July. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.
Single Room Supplement (SRS): from £450
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): from £185
Large Party Saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) – discount of at least £15 per person
Maximum party size: 10
Add Ons
Alternative hotels in San Candido (half board) and Cortina (B&B) and Misurina (half board), and extra nights in any hotel: Contact On Foot Holidays (seasonal pricing)
Taxi from Venice Marco Polo airport to San Candido: From £310 (1-8 pers)
Taxi from Cortina to Dobbiaco railway station: From £80 (1-3 pers.), £100 (4-8)
Taxi from Cortina to San Candido (eg to return to own car) from £90 (1-3 pers) ,£115 (4-8)
Taxi from Cortina to Venice Marco Polo airport: From £250 (1-3 pers.), £300 (4-8)
Arrange locally: Local bus or taxi as desired
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: £20-£60 (per pack, location dependent)
Guiding by Isabelle (priced per group): From £225 per day irrespective of group size (£265 if overnight stay required)
Travellers Blog
More reasons to walk the mighty Dolomites
Thursday 3rd January | Posted by On Foot Staff
view articleOur local team
Isabelle Johnson
Isabelle has lived and walked in the Cortina area for more than ten years. She works as a walking guide and translator and has a special interest in the First World War Austrian/Italian Dolomite front.