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Dordogne – 5 nights
Classic France in the beautiful Dordogne valley
Back to RoutesAt a glance
Dordogne 5-night version (missing walk to and stay at Port de Gagnac). Add extra nights in Beaulieu, Carennac, Meyronne and Rocamadour. See 'Prices' tab for what's included.
How much walking?
Full days: 14-22½km per day, 3-5½ hrs walking
Using shortening options: 8-14km per day, 1½-3¼ hrs walking
Hills and valleys, vineyards, bridges and chateaux
The River Dordogne, beloved of travellers for decades, courses its way from the Massif Central to the Atlantic at Bordeaux, and passes through some of the most beautiful countryside in France. Each section has its own character, but the stretch we have chosen reflects that variety, giving the walker a taste of the Middle Dordogne landscape in all its forms.
From the start at Beaulieu, where the wide river flows gently through the water meadows outside the old town, our route climbs into the hills above, with fine views and bucolic countryside on each of the first three walking days. You’ll then head over the limestone causse to the historic and dramatic pilgrimage centre of Rocamadour for your final night.
Stay in traditional inns and small hotels, many of them riverside, including a former château. And being France, the food is exceptional, with a lot of local specialities. The wines from the area are gaining a reputation too, and are worth exploring!
The walking is graded medium, but with built-in shortening options for those who would like to walk the route at a more leisurely pace.
Walked by On Foot staff: Simon and Debbie
REVIEWS: For independent walker reviews of this route submitted to the Association of Independent Tour Operators visit AITO.com.
ARTICLES: Read an article about On Foot’s Dordogne holiday on our blog here. If you’re thinking of coming in via Toulouse (Unesco City of Music) do read this article from December 2023: Bravo Toulouse, the French city hitting all the right musical and culinary notes | France holidays | The Guardian
TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to France, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency.
Route Highlights
- The limpid waters of the Dordogne middle reaches
- Castelnau castle
- The Autoire waterfall and clifftop walk
- Medieval fortified villages
- Walking across the Causse
- The sanctuary of Rocamadour
This route features the following characteristics and interests: Villages and farms, Drive to route, Food, History
Things you should know
- Access to the route may require a long journey, so if coming by train, make that part of your holiday plans.
We Recommend
Extra nights in Beaulieu, Carennac, Meyronne or Rocamadour for relaxation.
Eating and drinking
While the general standard of meals throughout the route is good, special mention should be made of the dinners provided by our hosts at Carennac (Petite Auberge) and Meyronne (La Terrasse) and, if your itinerary includes it, a meal at a starred Michelin restaurant in Belcastel.
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: 8-14km per day, 1½-3¼ hrs walking
The paths are mainly waymarked, are well looked after, though careful attention still needed to your route directions.
Medium: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 585m (425m-745m) per day.
Easy-Medium: CUSs 350m (150m-425 m) per day using taxi shortening options (pay locally) most days.
Acrophobia/vertigo warnings: Only momentarily en route to Loubressac (up metal stairs with handrails to reach the final stretch into the village).
On Foot Holidays Companion app available from 2025, for GPS navigation/mapping and all other documentation and advice. Separate GPX files for your own device also available.
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
The best months to walk: April, May, June, September, October
Other possible months: early July, August (very end)
Enjoy the Dordogne in April, May and June for the spring flowers and in September and October for the golden autumn warmth. Route not available between mid-July and late August.
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Temperature and rainfall in Rocamadour
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrival day
Arrive and settle into your accommodation. Wander around the town to check out a restaurant for the evening, and perhaps enjoy an aperitif ...
Option
If you have more than one night in Beaulieu, either by choice or because our accommodation in Port de Gagnac is unavailable, we can offer a lovely circular walk above Beaulieu - the Sioniac Circuit. It's about 12km, not difficult walking, and is a good introduction to the landscape of the area as it winds through woodland and fields.
Day 2 - Port de Gagnac to Loubressac
A delightful day visiting the village of Glanes, walking through the vineyards of the Coteaux de Glanes and up to the majestic castle of Castelnau (we recommend delaying your start if you want to catch the opening times – see www.castelnau-bretenoux.fr/en/visit/practical-information), before winding up the Autoire valley to its eponymous historic village, and a dramatic waterfall. The end of the walk includes a dramatic clifftop section and a quiet lane to your next accommodation in a bustling inn. (Medium: 5½hrs walking (allow 7½ hrs), 24 km (15 miles), CUSs 755m)
Alternative: Ride with the luggage to Castelnau (saving 2½ hrs) – €15 supplement payable direct to driver.
In the autumn and spring we are also able to offer upgrade accommodation in Autoire – shortening this day’s walking by 1½ hrs, but also meaning that a visit to the Gouffre de Padirac is not viable the next day (an alternative route via Loubressac direct to Carennac is available). See the ‘Where you’ll stay’ tab.
Day 3 - Loubressac to Carennac
A shorter walk today, over the Causse to Padirac and a chance to visit by boat the extraordinary underground chasm and river there (pre booking necessary). Then through pretty countryside with views out over the Dordogne valley, and the opportunity to ‘bag’ the ruins of Taillefer, before a final descent to Romanesque Carennac beside the Dordogne. (Easy: 3¼hrs (allow 4¼hrs) plus time to visit the Gouffre (1½hrs suggested), 15km (9½miles), CUSs 360m)
Alternatives: taxi to the Gouffre (subject to availability, supplement) then walk on (saves 1 hour), or ride with the luggage all the way to Carennac.
If intending to visit the Gouffre, ensure you’ve pre-booked!
Day 4 - Carennac to Meyronne
A long (if done in full), beautifully varied day starting and ending with two very different aspects of the Dordogne, and leading through woods and wide-open countryside, over the limestone plateau and into small villages. There’s a lot of ground to cover, but there’s also a lot of opportunity for striding out over easy paths and tracks. (Medium-hard: 5½ hrs walking (allow 7¼ hrs), 22½ km (14 miles), CUSs 735m)
Alternatives: Lift with the luggage to Floirac (saving 2¼ hrs) or even Montvalent (saving 4 hrs). Supplement of €15 payable to the driver.
Day 5 - Meyronne to Rocamadour
An easier day largely through remote farmland on the Causse, belying the busyness of your destination – the tourist hub that is Rocamadour. The village’s dramatic setting grew up around a shrine to a black Madonna, and is now one of France’s “Grand Sites”, visited by pilgrims and travellers alike. (Easy-medium: 3¼ hrs walking (allow 4¼ hrs), 13¾ km (8½ miles), CUSs 425m)
Alternatives: none except to travel with the luggage all the way.
Departure from Rocamadour
Leave for home – or have another night to explore the village.
Travel Information
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Nearest railway station:
Start: Bretenoux-Biars (nearest, but limited number of trains, so the holiday cost includes a taxi from Brive, or, if coming from Toulouse, from Souillac)
Finish: Souillac – holiday cost includes taxi from Rocamadour (or Meyronne) to Souillac station
Sample journey by rail:
Via Paris: Gare d’Austerlitz to Brive ~4½ hrs
Souillac to Paris: direct to Paris ~5 hrs
We suggest thetrainline.com for times, ticket booking and other information.
ARRIVING BY CAR
Leave your car at the start of the route in a public car park in Beaulieu (no charge). Taxi back at end.
ARRIVING BY AIR
Four airports serve the route – Brive is the nearest, but quite seasonal; Bordeaux is possible too; Toulouse is the furthest, but may have the best choice of flights; Bergerac, a little further, is very seasonal, and will need a taxi transfer all the way (it’s not a cheap option). Alternatively, fly into one of the Paris airports and take the train as far as Brive la Gaillarde, where our (included) taxi will pick you up. Intercontinental journeys use Paris.
Land by: Bordeaux 13:00 (limited direct trains to Brive); Toulouse 15:00 (train to Souillac then taxi from there); Bergerac no limit – taxi needed all the way; Brive no limit – supplement for taxi extension from airport.
Return flight earliest (for public transport options): Bordeaux 14:00 (but earlier with taxi to Brive rather than Souillac – supplement); Toulouse 12:00 (with very early start); Bergerac no limit – taxi needed all the way; Brive no limit – supplement for taxi extension to airport.
No limit if opting to take a taxi all the way.
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.
See “Getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information.
Getting to the start of the walk
The first hotel is in Beaulieu, and the last in Belcastel, or Rocamadour or Meyronne for shorter versions. Transfer times and methods are suggested train arrivals and for the three nearest airports below.
Train station transfers:
Outward: Pre-booked taxi from agreed arrival point (supplement for stations other than Brive).
Return: Taxi to Souillac station (included). Supplement for stations other than Souillac.
BRIVE AIRPORT
Outward: Pre-booked taxi from airport to Beaulieu (included).
Return: Pre booked taxi (included) to Souillac (15 mins), train to Brive (30 mins), taxi off train station rank to airport – allow 1-1½ hours.
BORDEAUX MERIGNAC AIRPORT
Outward: shuttle bus to main station, train to Brive, pre-booked taxi from there to Beaulieu.
Return: pre-booked taxi to Souillac station (included); train to Bordeaux; shuttle bus to airport – allow 3 hours.
TOULOUSE BLAGNAC AIRPORT
Outward: shuttle bus to main station, train to Souillac (better than Brive), pre-booked taxi from there to Beaulieu.
Return: pre-booked taxi to Souillac station (included); train to Toulouse; shuttle bus to airport – allow 3 hours.
BERGERAC AIRPORT
Needs taxi all the way in both directions.
Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information. For pre-bookable taxi prices see “Prices”.
Where You'll Stay
The Dordogne is a popular holiday destination, and as such, there is a good variety of hotels and B&Bs – some very simple, such as that at Port de Gagnac, others more sophisticated, such as those in Meyronne and Belcastel. Do consider an upgrade in Beaulieu or Rocamadour, or perhaps upgrade to a tower room or suite in Meyronne.
All accommodations have ensuite bathrooms and WiFi. Only Hôtel Le Beaulieu and Le Turenne (upgrade) in Beaulieu, La Terrasse in Meyronne, and the Beau Site (upgrade) in Rocamadour have aircon.
Night 1
Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne – Hôtel Les Flots Bleus (B&B)
Small riverside hotel with comfortable rooms and terrace restaurant.
Night 1 (Upgrade)
Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne – Clos Rodolphe (B&B)
Delightful and colourful small B&B in a historic house near the Abbey.
Night 2 (Upgrade)
Autoire – Manoir de Laroque Delprat (dinner, B&B)
Sympathetically restored 17th century manor house in heart of the beautiful village of Autoire.
Night 5 (Upgrade)
Rocamadour – Hôtel Beau Site (B&B)
19th century house tucked below the cliff, with a panoramic view.
Prices
Total 5 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 3 picnics and 2 evening meals, luggage transfers between all hotels on walking route; taxi from Brive railway station at start to Beaulieu, and from Rocamadour to Souillac railway station at end; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.
Also included: On Foot Holidays Companion app (from 2025), providing navigation/mapping and digital version of the Walkers’ Pack as above. Separate GPX files for your own device also available. If choosing to walk with app only (no printed materials): Discount of £40 per pack (based on one pack per room) from 2025.
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.
Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £235
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £300
Large Party Saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) – discount of at least £60 per person
Maximum party size: 10
Add Ons
Extra nights possible throughout the route: Contact On Foot for ideas and prices
Pre-booked taxis: a taxi from Brive railway station to Beaulieu sur Dordogne and from your final hotel back to Souillac railway station is included in your holiday price – if you would like to come from or go back to another town, ask us for a quote.
Arrange locally: Local taxi as required
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: £20-£60 (per pack, location dependent)
Our local team
Emily Stokely
This particular part of France has been part of Emily’s life since she was a little girl holidaying here with her parents. It was one of the first places she visited after meeting Jeremy and as keen outdoors enthusiasts, they spent many subsequent holidays discovering the area on foot and by bicycle. In 2005 they decided to move here with their young family in order to build a house, and now live in the hills above Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne where they run a small business managing holiday houses.