Ribeira Sacra

Itinerary

Day 1 - Arrive in Castro de Caldelas

After a taxi ride from Ourense (included), check in to your hotel, then have a wander around the old town, admire the views from the citadel and check out the (modest) choice of restaurants for your first supper.

Day 2 - Castro de Caldelas to Cristosende

From the town, descend through oak woods to a stream and then climb through vineyards to a beautiful abandoned monastery. Continuing to pretty A Cruz, there is then a choice; our preferred route via Teixera is shorter, and offers your first full view of the spectacular gorge just before your next accommodation. (Medium-hard: 3½ hrs walking (allow 5 hrs), 12½ km (8 miles), CUSs 535m) or add another 4 km/1 hr.

Day 3 - Cristosende to Parada de Sil

This is the day you see the Sil river close up. A walk down to the water is followed by some attractive villages and an “Adega” (winery) on the river bank, before a beautiful riverside path to the hamlet of Rabacallos. Here you can opt to take the short steep option to your destination, or a recommended longer version up a side stream through pretty woodland, passing an old mill with a sad story, before coming out at the top onto the Parada de Sil plateau, and a short walk through fields to your next accommodation in this attractive village. (Medium-hard: 4½ hrs walking (allow 6 hrs), 14¼ km (9 miles), CUSs 740m). Alternative: With shorter, steeper end: Medium-hard: 4¼ hrs walking (allow 5¾ hrs), 12½ km (8 miles), CUSs 830m.)

Day 4 - Parada de Sil circuit

A day of three parts. The first is on broad tracks through pine and oak woods, taking in three viewpoints over the Sil, the second on narrow paths, sometimes steep but always interesting, through abandoned farmland to the monastery of S. Cristina in its remote fastness, and the third on ancient stone-wall-lined lanes which once linked the villages before the arrival of the motor car, now lovingly cleaned by local walking groups. (Medium: 3¾ hrs walking (allow 5 hrs), 11½ km (7 miles), CUSs 500m)

Day 5 - Parada de Sil to the Parador

A day of many viewpoints over the Canon do Sil. An easy start to the day on a quiet road before ascending to moorland and the first viewpoint. More follow, winding in and out of woodland, crossing streams, visiting tiny villages set in a bucolic landscape, never far from the river, before a final descent to the glorious former monastery, now one of Spain’s famed Paradors. (Medium: 5 hrs walking (allow 6¾ hrs), 16¾ km (10½ miles), CUSs 500m). Lift possible to shorten walk – save up to two hours walking.)

Day 6 - The Parador to Penalba

This varied walk has many magical moments, starting with a great balcony walk from the Parador, before encountering many of the old ways between the villages, to a mini-fest of hórreos (traditional stone grain stores) at Biduedo. From here the path heads charmingly back to the gorge, where you have a choice – either to continue along the gorge at mid-level) or head back up to the plateau for an inspection of a Neolithic landscape, before redescending circuitously to the Mirador de Lampa, one of the best on the Sil. From here your path descends through commercial forest (though with some majestic views) to your next accommodation at Penalba. (Medium: 4¾ hrs walking, (allow 6¼ hrs) 15¼ km (9½ miles), CUSs 540m). Alternative: Shorter version along gorge to the Mirador de Lampa – saves 2½ km and 1 hr walking.)

Day 7 - Penalba to Turbisquedo

A shorter day, so take it a bit easy. Start off up the same track as you descended along yesterday, then a bit of quiet road walking into the village of Os Peares, where the Minho and the Sil meet. After crossing the river check out the riverside (the café could be open) before heading up the valley of the Bubal river. A short, steep climb through two abandoned villages (where your host tonight plans to re-establish a historic vineyard) is followed by a pleasant ramble through light woodland before reaching Bill and Juan-Carlos’ extraordinary house at Turbisquedo. (Medium-hard: 3¾ hrs walking (allow 5 hrs), 12¾ km (8 miles), CUSs 750m)

Day 8 - Turbisquedo to Ferreiros

This bucolic day is a little longer than yesterday, but not difficult. It rolls through the open countryside south of Turbisquedo, before reaching the little town of A Peroxa, complete with café and ruined castle. From here you descend almost to the River Minho before a gentle ascent up to your next night’s accommodation, formerly the church rectory and now a working vineyard. (Medium: 4 hrs walking (allow 5¼ hrs), 15 km (9½ miles), CUSs 375m)

Day 9 - Ferreiros to Ourense

Your final walking day starts off gently downhill through the villages connecting the countryside with the river, with occasional views to this broad waterway, before reaching it at the delightfully named village of Casanova. A stretch along the river and its inlets is followed by a short countryside length through pine forest before meeting the river again finally on the outskirts of Ourense. The riverside park and promenade is a good way to enter the city, and the ‘Roman’ bridge a lovely way to cross into the historic centre. (Medium: 4 hrs walking, (allow 5¼ hrs), 16¼ km (10 miles), CUSs 400m)