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Umbria – 4 nights

  • 8 Night Route

    Price: from £1095
  • 7 Night Route

    Price: from £990
  • 6 Night Route

    Price: from £900
  • 5 Night Route

    Price: from £740
  • 4 Night Route

    Price: from £695

Umbria, St Francis and the Dukes of Spoleto

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Spoleto Cathedral

Spoleto Cathedral

Labro at dawn

Labro at dawn

Umbrian mountain path

Umbrian mountain path

Entrance arch into Casperia

Entrance arch into Casperia

Meadow near Casperia

Meadow near Casperia

Cookery course, Casperia

Cookery course, Casperia

The Sabine Hills

The Sabine Hills

Sunset over Stefano's olive groves

Sunset over Stefano's olive groves



Autumn gold in Piediluco

Autumn gold in Piediluco

Sanctuario di Greccio

Sanctuario di Greccio

Price: from £695
Nights: 4
Walk: 2¾ - 4½ hr/day

We walked for a week in the Umbrian sunshine, following paths originally walked by St Francis of Assisi. The walking was rewarding, the scenery beautiful, the meals and drinks at the end of each day somehow tasted better as we felt we'd had to work for them.

Anon - January 2022

We like the On Foot concept and the ability to see the true country rather than the tourist traps, and to interact with locals. Love to support the local economies. On the value front, the trips are great value.

Stephanie Tsacoumis, USA - September 2021

Le Mole sul Farfa - well!!

That view on approach - so true, the best of the walk. Elisabeth has created a real oasis here, from the view out of the window in our room, the bed, linen, towels and smelly stuff in the bathroom to the food! Perfect, should have stayed more nights.

Tracey Collins, London, UK - October 2019

A thoroughly enjoyable walk through very attractive countryside and charming hilltop towns, with excellent accommodation throughout.

Marc Jeffery, Samobor, Croatia - September 2021

Superb walking and food in the foothills of Umbria.

A week of quiet, beautiful walking through villages, meadows, woods, hills and valleys with the knowledge that a lovely room, welcoming hosts and fantastic food awaits.

Andy - May 2019

We've just returned from our holiday in Umbria and it was wonderful.

Beautiful trails and the instructions were excellent. We relied on them completely with very rare checking on the GPS. We found all the people we came into contact with incredibly friendly, although as we were so late in the season we didn't meet a single other walker on the trails.

Bertie Maxwell, London, UK - October 2018

We have had the good fortune to travel the world, first, second and third class, and cannot recall a better planned and more joyous trip than our walking trip with On Foot.

The food and accommodations were delightful, the walking/trail/countryside extraordinary and both the nightly hosts and the locals in the bars and restaurants so friendly and kind. Our deep-felt thanks to the staff of On Foot for a perfect trip and their wonderful attention to detail.

Jane and Eric Englund, Wisconsin, USA - September 2018

Very much enjoyed the whole trip and would recommend to anyone.

Loved in particular the second and last day of walking where we were out of tree cover and there were expansive views, small villages etc. We enjoyed stopping for lunches in trattorias. We had a marvellous time and wish we were still there!

Hermione Nevill, Istanbul - July 2017

I had such a wonderful time. Everything worked flawlessly, from the arrivals to the luggage transfers to the packed lunches.

All the hosts/drivers I interacted with were friendly and welcoming, the directions were clear, and the paths were easy to follow. I enjoyed this week far more than my following week in Rome - small towns are the best way to see a country, and the walking holiday was the most peaceful and rewarding part of the trip.

Diane Tomion, Virginia, USA - April 2017

More independent feedback
A self-guided walking holiday in Umbria, Italy, with On Foot Holidays

At a glance

4 nights (3 days walking), starting in Casperia. See 'Prices' tab for what's included.

How much walking?

Full days: 12-16 km per day, 4-6¾ hrs walking
Using shortening options: 8-16 km per day, 2¾-4½ hrs (using lifts)

Max. Grade:

Spoleto, the Sabine Hills, the Way of Saint Francis and the Duchy

A short walk through the beautiful Sabine Hills, to the abbey of Farfa, designed with the time-poor in mind.  It goes through the territory of the old Duchy of Spoleto, which was founded by the Lombards in the 6th century AD.  Its destination, the abbey, was founded by Duke Faraold II of Spoleto in the 7th century. From Casperia (staying in a palazzetto), to Mauro and Ornella’s “real” Agriturismo (have their wines, olive oil, goats cheese and prosciutto for supper) and finally two nights in Mompeo, where our route advisor Stefano and his family will be ready to greet you.  The last day to the abbey of Farfa completes your pilgrimage – and you may be lucky enough to get a hilltop glimpse of the dome of Saint Peter’s in Rome, forty miles away.  You can also add a night or two in Rome at our favourite B&B.

Walked by On Foot staff: Simon and Debbie, and in part by others!

REVIEWS: For independent walker reviews submitted to the Association of Independent Tour Operators visit

ARTICLE: Read an article about the Albergo Diffuso organisation (which includes our accommodation in Labro) from Sawdays here.

TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to Italy, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency.

COVID-19 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: Please read our summary of current regulations.

Here’s a lovely short video about the olive harvest at Stefano and Elisabeth’s organic farm at Mompeo, where you’ll spend the last two nights of your holiday. With thanks to Alex Koryakin for this evocative little film.

Route Highlights

  • The fortified villages of Sabina
  • Wooded hills and high pastures
  • The palazzetta in Casperia
  • Montenero
  • A Roman villa and one of the oldest olive trees in central Italy!
  • The Abbey of Farfa

This route features the following characteristics and interests: Pilgrimage, Villages and farms, Drive to route, Food, History

We Recommend

Extra night in Casperia (see below for cookery course), optional night in Misciani for a half day experience of goat's milk collection and cheese making, pasta making or foraging (enquire for prices), or to relax by Stefano and Elisabeth's pool in Mompeo, and nights in Rome.

Eating and Drinking

At La Torretta in Casperia, you can stay an extra day learning to prepare a traditional 4 course meal with an antipasto, a primosecondo and contorno, and dolce!  The primo is always pasta made from scratch (no machines) so slow pasta-making which is a lot of fun as well as a workout; with the fresh pasta you would then make stuffed ravioli, or fettucine or pasta alla chitarra, with a light fresh sauce. As members of the slow food movement they try to provide organic products with no food miles (or kilometres), which will therefore vary according to season; a light meat course will be served after the pasta with  local veg, and usually daughter Jennifer’s award-winning tiramisù for dessert. They serve good quality wines from Lazio with the meal, always D.O.C.  These cooking lessons are offered with a minimum of 4 (preferred – 2 people sometimes possible) participants, but you can normally join a group if necessary (supplement from €85 per person, including lesson, full 4 course dinner, wines and an after-dinner liqueur; courses subject to availability and participating numbers).

At Misciani, you will eat truly from the fruits of the (local) earth – but you can also help to make them happen, with various farm-based activities available including milking the goats, cheese making, foraging, pasta making etc.. allow half a day (supplement).

At Mompeo, chef Elisabeth is a superb vegetarian cook, which gives the lie to the idea that such food can be dull or non-sustaining.  With luck you will be able to sample Stefano’s olive oil, and you will certainly be able to buy preserves (having tasted them at breakfast).

How much Walking?

Full days: 12-16 km per day, 4-6¾ hrs walking
Using shortening options: 8-16 km per day, 2¾-4½ hrs (using lifts)

Walking on old hill paths and tracks. Good waymarking. Highest point on route: 1065m.

Medium-hard: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 625m (350m-750m) per day.
Medium: CUSs 457m (340m – 600m) using shortening options

GPX file available for handheld GPS or smartphone App for complete route.

Important note: Times given for each day are  walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops.  “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb.  See “Walk Grading” for more information.

When to go?

The best months to walk:  May, June, September, October

Other possible months: April, July

These tree-clad hills offer a certain amount of shade, except on the higher reaches, where exposure can be high. The elevation tempers the otherwise fierce heat of the summer too, so we can offer this unique route for most of the walking year except peak holiday period times in July and August.  Our final accommodation is often fully booked, so do reserve your dates as early as possible.

Please note that this route will not be available from 2023.

Start Dates


Weather Chart


Temperature and rainfall chart for Labro


About the Route

Day 1 - Arrive in Casperia

After a pick-up from Poggio Mirteto station, settle into Maureen's stylish Palazzetta, and consider your options for dinner tonight.  An early arrival would enable you to explore this hilltop town in more detail.


Your host Maureen suggests: “An extra day here could involve short local walks around the old mule paths, to the next village for lunch, or just along the valley below. We have cooking lessons for min 2 people - three hours hands on followed by Italian 4 course meal with wines.

Day 2 - Casperia to Misciani

Walk (or arrange for a taxi through your host) from Casperia to the fine fortified village of Roccantica, which is definitely worth an explore and a coffee stop, before you start walking – a gentle climb up the Valle de Galantina to a waterfall; then through high pastures down the valley leading to Mauro and Ornella’s quiet agriturismo (Medium: 4½ hrs walking, 11 km, CUSs 510m, plus start as above for purists)


Spend an extra night in this beautiful place, and experience some real old Umbria - a half day experience of goat's milk collection and cheese making, pasta making or foraging (enquire for prices) - led by Mauro.

Day 3 - Misciani to Mompeo

This magical day takes you through the open woodland below Misciani to the almost-perfect village of Montenero, where time has stood still for a century or more, except for the Bar Neno, where you can stop for a bite to eat and drink.  Afterwards, continue down the river valley along quiet tracks before climbing steeply up to the ridge top, from where you will spy the twin hilltop villages of Salisano and Mompeo, next to which lies your goal, route advisor Stefano and Elisabeth’s beautifully positioned organic farm. (Medium:  4½ hrs, 15 km, CUSs 640m)

Day 4 - Mompeo to Farfa

A day of (potentially at least) two abbeys. Down to the gorge for a quick paddle before your final day’s walking. Your chance to see Castelnuovo di Farfa, its quirky olive museum and old streets, before a final descent to the Abbey of Farfa. Hardy walkers can bag the final hill of San Martino to see the ruins of Farfa’s would-be sister abbey on the top, and, who knows, a view of St Peter’s dome in the distance? Lift back to Mompeo for the night. (Easy version 2¾ hrs, 8 km, CUSs 340m, medium version with final ascent/descent of San Martino 4¾ hrs, 12 km, CUSs 550m)


Many walkers have told us that a memorable afternoon can be spent, Stefano's time allowing, visiting his very own Roman Villa, which he is in the process of discovering as layers of earth are stripped away, with help from the University of Vermont (introduced to the project by one of our own walkers).  Donations gratefully accepted for the continuation and expansion of this extraordinary project. Arrange a visit locally with Stefano and Elisabeth (supplement).

Departure day

Depart for home – or why not a night or two in Rome at our favourite B&B?

Travel Information


The best airport is Rome Fiumicino (Leonardo Da Vinci) (including intercontinental flights), though Rome Ciampino and Ancona are also useful.  (Perugia airport transfers are only feasible by taxi.)

Land by: 15:00 for public transport connections to Spoleto or Casperia.
Return flight earliest: No time limit if staying final night in Rome. If not, 11:00 for train connections from Mompeo or Casperia (see transfer information below).
Earliest return time not applicable if using pre-booked taxi.

Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.

For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.

See “getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information.

Nearest railway stations:
Start: Spoleto (Poggio Mirteto for 4 night option)
Finish: Mompeo – Fara in Sabina; Casperia – Poggio Mirteto (Rome Termini if including night(s) in Rome)

Sample journey by rail:

Via Rome: Shuttle train into city, then direct train to Spoleto; or direct train from Fiumicino airport or city train stations to Poggio Mirteto (for Casperia)

Mompeo to Rome: direct train from Fara Sabina (or Poggio Mirteto) to Rome Fiumicino or the city centre.

We suggest for times, ticket booking and other information.


Only suitable for those whose last night is in Mompeo. Park your car at Le Mole (just outside Mompeo – no charge, but leave keys with your hosts). Taxi back to start (supplement).


Getting to the start of the walk

The first hotel is in Spoleto (Casperia for 4 night option) and the last in Mompeo (or Casperia for 5 night option). Transfer times and methods are suggested for Rome Fiumicino airport below. For train arrival transfers see below.

Outward: from Fiumicino train/train/local bus or taxi 3 hrs. Taxi whole way possible but very expensive.
Return: Direct train from Fara in Sabina or Poggio Mirteto to Fiumicino airport 1.5 hrs, or shuttle/local taxi from Rome B&B to airport.

For prebookable taxi prices see “Prices”.

Transfers from/to train stations:
Outward: Spoleto or Casperia – taxi pre-booked for you to your accommodation, payable locally.
Return: Lift from Mompeo to railway station included (from Casperia, pay locally). If staying in Rome, from Rome Termini, bus or local taxi to B&B, and same on return to station.

Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information.

Where You'll Stay

A great variety of accommodation, from palaces to traditional hotels to committed agriturismos. All comfortable, some memorable.

Casperia – La Torretta (B&B)

Night 1

Casperia – La Torretta (B&B)

An almost fabulous Palazzetta in the historic centre.

Misciani – Il Fienile di Orazio (dinner, B&B)

Night 2

Misciani – Il Fienile di Orazio (dinner, B&B)

Spectacularly located Agriturismo with pool - as well as donkeys, pigs and geese. Stay longer for a half day experience of goat's milk collection and cheese making, pasta making or foraging (enquire for prices).

Mompeo – Le Mole sul Farfa (dinner, B&B)

Night 3 & 4

Mompeo – Le Mole sul Farfa (dinner, B&B)

Charming vegetarian Agriturismo with swimming pool, run by the route designer. Holds coveted Ecolabel certification for meeting highest environmental standards.

Staying in Rome

We think we have one of the best and most reasonably priced places to stay in Rome – Roberta’s B&B Orologio. In a narrow street between the Piazza Navona and the Vatican, Roberta has been our Rome host for the last twleve years and has never let us down.  With her stylish charm and attention to detail she ensures that if you return to Rome you will stay there again.


Price: from £695 for 4 nights

Total 4 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 3 evening meals, 1 picnic, lift from Farfa Abbey back to Mompeo (after final day’s walk), and from Mompeo to Fara Sabina station (departure day), luggage transfers between all hotels on walking route; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.

All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.

Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £95
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £150
Large Party Saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) –  discount of at least £20 per person
Maximum party size: 8 (more with some triple rooms)


Add Ons

Extra B&B night in Labro: From £45 pp sharing; £25 single supp
Extra B&B night in Casperia: From £41 pp sharing; £22 single supp
Further Dinner, B&B night in Misciani: From £68 pp sharing; £18 single supp
Nights in Rome: From £63 pp sharing; £40 single supp
Extra nights in other centres: Contact On Foot Holidays
Taxi from Mompeo to Rome centre or either Rome airport: Contact On Foot Holidays
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK:  £10-£40 (per pack, location dependent)
Guiding services by Stefano Fassone: Contact On Foot Holidays

Reserve your dates Add to shortlist
Elisabeth de Coster & Stefano Fassone

Our local team

Elisabeth de Coster & Stefano Fassone

Elisabeth and her partner Stefano (and their children Marit and Theo) live and work on an organic agriturismo close to the Gorge of Farfa, for which they have recently obtained national protection.

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