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Rhine Valley – 4 nights
From Lorch to Koblenz
Back to Routes
The paddlesteamer
Bacharach
St Goarshausen from the Lorelei
St Goar
Kaub
Schloss Rheinstein
The Boppard bend
Mist over the Rhine
The Posthaus in Bacharach
Rhens Town Hall
Vineyards in Autumn
A tea break with a view
At a glance
4 nights (3 walking days) - starting in Kaub and finishing in Rhens, but still giving a good taster of the Rhine Gorge. See 'Prices' tab for what's included.
How much walking?
Full days: 18-21 km per day, 6½ - 6¾ hrs walking
Using shortening options: 7-10 km per day, 2-3½ hrs (using buses/trains/boats to reduce walking)
Castles and the Romantic Rhine
The Rhine Gorge is unique. Its 20 castles, perched high above the river, some visitable, bear witness to a crucial role in the history of Europe, and to its iconic “Romantic” status for painters, poets and composers.
It is busy and exciting too – the barges negotiating sharp bends and the toy trains (for that is how they look from the footpaths high above), and the river towns and villages – many very old and still wholly or partially fortified – make a pleasant variation from the rural walking. It is also a wine route – every village is proud of its own Riesling vineyards and you will have the chance to sample their produce when you sup after a walking day.
This is our original route in the Rhine Valley – see Castles of the Rhine for a slightly different itinerary, with more castle stays and opportunities for fine dining!
Walked by On Foot staff: Simon and Debbie
REVIEWS: For independent walker reviews submitted to the Association of Independent Tour Operators visit Aito.com.
ARTICLES: Read an article about On Foot’s Castles of the Rhine Valley holiday from The Guardian newspaper here.
TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to Germany, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency.
Route Highlights
- The spectacular Rhine Gorge
- 20 castles high above the river
- The Loreley, St Goar and Roman Boppard
- Riesling and beer gardens
This route features the following characteristics and interests: Drive to route, History, Wine
We Recommend
Eating and drinking
There are some excellent chefs en route – notably Edgar and Willi at Kaub, and Werner at Rhens. Werner specializes in “Wildgerichte” from his own hunt – so venison and wild boar in particular. He recommends a local red wine – Dornfelder from Weingut Kronen-Hof – but a richer Riesling will also work well with “Wild”.
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: 7-10 km per day, 2-3½ hrs (using buses/trains/boats to reduce walking)
Excellent,well-marked and well-surfaced paths and good signage. Tough climbs away from the river but short (typically 100m – 150m ascent). Highest point on route: 470m.
Medium-hard: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 587m (450m-830m) per day.
Easy: CUSs 243m (200m – 280m) per day using shortening options (available each day).
Acrophobia/vertigo warnings: None.
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
The best months to walk: May, June, July, September, October
Other possible months: April, August, November
This is a route that can be walked from April through to the beginning of November, though accommodation can be difficult to secure during ‘Rhein in Flammen’ weekends, particularly those in September, and the public holiday at the start of October. The heat of the summer is kept at bay on many days by woodland, though if you do walk in high summer take lots of protection against the sun, else will you ripen as the grapes. Best time to walk – May (except for Ascension), June and late September/early October – for spring flowers and fragrant vineyards later in the autumn.
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Temperature and rainfall chart for Oberwesel
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrive in Kaub
Your first night is in Kaub, where Edgar and Willi will welcome you as born hosts.
Day 2 - Kaub/Oberwesel to St. Goar
Cross over by ferry to Oberwesel and walk to St Goar past TV’s Günderodehaus, through fields opposite the Loreley for the best views of the fabled rock. (Easy-medium: 3½ hrs, 10km, CUSs 280m). Extend the walk past massive Burg Rheinfels, a ruin that does not bely its complex military history and on to pretty Hirzenach via some wonderful and surprising vistas high above the river (Medium-hard: 6¾ hrs, 21km, CUSs 480m Oberwesel-Hirzenach).
Day 3 - St. Goar to Kamp-Bornhofen
Cross over to St. Goarshausen and, continuing your route northwards along the Rheinsteig, climb quickly up the valley side again and stay there amongst the fields and open skies, dipping down into woodland at Burg Maus before rising again to arrive finally at a castle at teatime, Burg Liebenstein (some may stay here), and descending to the river again at Kamp-Bornhofen. (Hard: 5½ hrs walking (allow 7¼ hrs), 18¾ km (11½ miles), CUSs 830m). Easier alternative – this tough day can be shortened by 3 hours by taking the train (Easy: 3 hrs walking (allow 4 hrs), 8 km (5 miles), CUSs 250m)
Day 4 - Kamp-Bornhofen to Rhens
After a short walk to riverside Filsen, cross the river to Roman Boppard, the largest of the gorge towns, for an early lunch and a ramble round the old streets and Roman fort, before climbing away from the river (you can use the chair lift instead!) and over the top via 4-Seen-Blick (the Rhine seems like four separate lakes from this point) and down to pretty Rhens, and your overnight stay in an old inn, complete with beer terrace, smiling waitresses and excellent kitchen – your host Werner is the chef. (Medium: 6 hrs walking (allow 8 hrs, 19¼ km (12 miles), CUSs 450m). Alternative – walk as far as Filsen/Boppard for a leisurely lunch, then train to Rhens. (Easy: 2¼ hrs walking (allow 3 hrs), 9 km (5½ miles), CUS 200m)
Departure day
Return home – or why not stay a further night and make the most of the museums, castles (Fortress Ehrenbreitstein in Koblenz is now accessible by cable car across the Rhine), gardens and restaurants that the Rhine, with its amazing transport network, offers?
Travel Information
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Nearest railway station:
Start: Kaub
Finish: Koblenz
Sample journey by rail:
Via Frankfurt: Direct to Kaub ~1½ hr.
Koblenz or Rhens to Frankfurt: ~2 hrs.
We suggest thetrainline.com for times, ticket booking and other information.
ARRIVING BY CAR
Drive to Rhens (leave your car on street, train back to the start of the route).
ARRIVING BY AIR
Two airports serve the route – Frankfurt International (best, ~1½ hrs by train to start and from finish – and best for intercontinental arrivals) and Cologne Bonn. Frankfurt Hahn is not recommended as it is nowhere near Frankfurt.
Land by: Frankfurt International 18:00, Cologne Bonn 16:00 for public transport connections to first hotel.
Return flight earliest: 12:00 (14:00 on Sunday) both airports for connections from Koblenz.
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.
See “Getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information.
Getting to the start of the walk
The first hotel is normally in Lorch (Kaub for shorter versions), and the last in Koblenz (Rhens for shorter versions). Transfer times and methods are suggested for train arrivals and for the two nearest airports below.
Transfers from train stations:
Outward: Local taxi or 10 minutes walk to first hotel
Return: 5-7 minutes walk to Koblenz or Rhens stations
FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT:
Outward: By train with 1 change, ~1½ hr
Return: By train (direct), ~1¼ hrs
COLOGNE-BONN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT:
Outward: By train with 1-2 changes, 2-3 hrs
Return: By train (0-1 changes), ~1½ hrs
Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information.
Where You'll Stay
The accommodation across the route is very friendly and often aimed at walkers. Do consider an upgrade to our captive castle in St Goar and/or a room with a view at Burg Liebenstein just outside of Kamp-Bornhofen. Please note that twin rooms are often ‘Austrian twins’ – that is, separate mattresses and bedding on the same bed frame.
Night 1
Kaub – Hotel Deutsches Haus (B&B)
A friendly village restaurant with basic rooms above. Near railway.
Night 2 (Upgrade)
St Goar – Schloss Rheinfels (B&B)
Imposing castle above St Goar with classy accommodation and restaurant with fine river views. German twin beds (large single base with two mattresses).
Night 3
Kamp-Bornhofen – Hotel Becker (B&B)
Charming, well-furnished hotel with good restaurant and wine-tasting opportunities.
Night 3 (Upgrade)
Kamp-Bornhofen – Burghotel Liebenstein (dinner, B&B)
Small medieval castle perched high above Rhine, now a small hotel complete with oak panelling, wrought iron sconces and fabulous river views which win out over the sometimes questionable culinary experience (dinner obligatory).
Night 4
Rhens – Hotel Roter Ochse (B&B)
Splendid old hotel with young management and a good kitchen.
Kaub – Hotel Deutsches Haus (B&B)
A friendly village restaurant with basic rooms above. Near railway.
Website
St Goar – Schloss Rheinfels (B&B)
Imposing castle above St Goar with classy accommodation and restaurant with fine river views. German twin beds (large single base with two mattresses).
Website
Kamp-Bornhofen – Hotel Becker (B&B)
Charming, well-furnished hotel with good restaurant and wine-tasting opportunities.
Website
Kamp-Bornhofen – Burghotel Liebenstein (dinner, B&B)
Small medieval castle perched high above Rhine, now a small hotel complete with oak panelling, wrought iron sconces and fabulous river views which win out over the sometimes questionable culinary experience (dinner obligatory).
Website
Rhens – Hotel Roter Ochse (B&B)
Splendid old hotel with young management and a good kitchen.
Website
Prices
Total 4 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 1 picnic, luggage transfers between all hotels on walking route; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.
Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £175
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £180
Large Party Saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) – discount of at least £25 per person
Maximum party size: 16
Add Ons
Upgrade to Schloss Rheinfels in St Goar and/or upgrade to Burg Liebenstein in Kamp-Bornhofen (includes evening meal): Varies with season and room type – contact On Foot.
Extra nights in any hotel: Contact On Foot Holidays
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: £20-£60 (per pack, location dependent)
Our local team
Beatrix Greiff
Beatrix lives on the route and has a portfolio career encompassing jewellery making and being a PA. She is bilingual in German and French and fluent in English.
