In search of Zagori’s dragons

Gail Andersson has sent us her account of walking On Foot’s route along the magnificent Vikos Gorge in Greece’s Zagori region, with Julie and Peri. Their final challenge was the hike from Papingo to Dragon Lake and back in one day.

The high altitude lakes scattered about the mountains are remnants of glacial activity, but myths abound regarding their creation. This lake on the slopes of the Tymfi range and a similar one on Mount Smolikas were supposedly created by their resident dragons angrily hurling rocks at each other – a story that is harder to dismiss when up amongst the dramatic peaks.

Here’s Gail’s story:

The track notes recommended doing this walk over two days staying at a refuge overnight, but we didn’t have the time so decided to give it a go. Although our notes said four hours to the refuge, our host and signs in the village indicated less. Julie sensibly decided to have a day pottering around Papingo. Peri taped the hot spots on some of my toes and Vasilis kindly offered to drive us across to the nearby village of Mikro Papingo.

Looking back towards the refuge

The track up to the refuge was a steady plod up from 1000 to 1900 metres. We could actually feel the effect of altitude at around the 1800 metre mark, with the same pace making us breathe more heavily, never puffing but noticeably more effort required. No stopping and we reached the refuge after 2 hours and 50 minutes. The carrot I’d been thinking of most of the way up – coffee at the top – became no more than a dream as Peri suggested we should continue on.

Far away, down and across a vast green alpine plain we could see tracks leading up a grassy open slope. Surely that couldn’t be our route, but as we descended 100 metres across a scree slope, we had to admit that was the way.

Don’t go too close to the edge!

Very exposed here but breathtakingly beautiful. Around 30 horses, white, grey and black with one lonely brown one were grazing in the lush grass. Up a spur another 200 metres and then at last we were there.

Dragon Lake is quite small, tucked between high limestone mountains. We walked to the far end where the sudden drop off elicited multiple exclamations from Peri causing her to repeatedly ask me to pardon her French. It didn’t sound like any French I learned at school but perhaps the language has progressed since then.

Vasilis had told us it was worth the extra effort to climb a knoll at the far end. I was reluctant but eventually plodded up and he was right. We kept well back from the edge as there were drop offs all around. On the way up this slope, we saw lots of small brown frogs.

Can you see dragons?

Back down to the lake to have our lunch in this idyllic place. And we had it all to ourselves! Amazing! Time to retrace our steps to the refuge enjoying all that huge scenery from a different angle. A reward for effort – both the scenery and a cold beer at the refuge.

Now for the long descent in hot sun. This was the hardest part of the day. That track which had been a good sound path on the way up was now paved with ball bearings, small slippery stones and you had to watch every step. The sun was burning and it was just down, down, down.

Julie met us in Mikro Papingo and we’d hoped to stop here for a drink but nothing was open so we walked back along the road towards Papingo. Peri noticed a sign towards some famous rock pools but it seemed like just too much effort until she checked Maps.Me and saw it was only 100 metres along. So up we went to have a look – a series of natural pools formed in the limestone with a rapid stream flowing between them. No energy to take advantage of it other than a few photos.

On and up to Papingo and back to that wonderful tavern for an icy beer. Another good home cooked meal at a restaurant, very comfortable temperature outside, towering mountains and quaint stone houses.

What a big day – 25 km, 1100 metres gained and lost, 8 hours. But totally worth it especially to have all that scenery to ourselves. It will be a wrench to leave this area.

What do you see in your vision of the perfect Greek island? Crystal seas, white hilltop chapels, goats scampering over the rocks, a vine-covered taverna where you can linger over a glass of wine and watch the sunset? These are places to escape from the rush of everyday life, to slow down, rest in the shade and put the world to rights.

Sunset from the ferry

An Andros footpath

The deceleration begins as soon as you step onto a ferry – the perfect way to arrive at the island of Andros, just two hours from the mainland. This is a surprisingly green island, with cooling sea breezes, and a laid-back approach to life.

Based in the unspoilt capital, Chora, our self-guided walking holiday takes you out into the rural corners of Andros, discovering ancient ruins, watermills, and monasteries where you may be invited in for refreshment.

Here a group of wonderful volunteers called Andros Routes has been working hard to rediscover and restore the ancient paths around the island. This work is part of a wider project to research and record the tracks’ essential place in the island’s heritage, and to encourage responsible tourism.

Lunch at Lionas beach, Naxos

Getting to On Foot’s other walk on the Cyclades Islands of Naxos and Amorgos takes a little longer, but the reward is an even quieter, truly un-touristy experience.

Chozoviotiza Monastery

Amongst the hills of Naxos you’ll find giant, half-finished statues from the 6th century BC left lying in the fields, as well as marble temple remains and pretty villages. Walk to the delightful cove at Lionas for a swim and a relaxing lunch.

Amorgos is only accessible by ferry, so there’s a real sense of adventure and journey in this holiday! The island has some thrilling views, and you’ll never forget the sight of the Monastery of Chozoviotiza, clinging limpet-like to the the sea-cliffs. Our hosts in Naxos town (four nights) and the Amorgos village of Aegialis (three nights) are warm and welcoming, and the food is fabulous too.

It’s National Parks Week in the UK, a festival that champions the natural wonders of these specially protected areas of beautiful Britain.  We thought that as well as reminding you of our two self-guided walking holidays that pass through National Parks in England – Devon and the Yorkshire Dales – we’d take a look at some other Parks on On Foot Holidays’ routes in Europe.

Follow the Lycian Way through Turkey’s Beydağları Coastal National Park, via mountains, ancient ruins and perfect beaches on the way to the lonely lighthouse (Lycia – Mountain and Sea).

In the south-east corner of France, walk through the valleys and villages perchés of the Mercantour National Park on our Alpes Maritimes holiday. If you’re lucky, you may see a chamois or marmot here.

In the lush green valleys of the Peneda-Gerês National Park in Northern Portugal, you’ll find communities continuing a lifestyle that is centuries old.  Here the farmers keep long-horned cattle, fed on maize stored in distinctive granite espigueiros.

There’s a similar character to the stone villages of the Vikos–Aoös National Park in mainland Greece, where the villagers are fiercely protective of their way of life and heritage. Get to know them while exploring the stunning Vikos Gorge.