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England: Devon
A tale of two rivers
Back to RoutesAt a glance
7 nights (6 walking days) - the full route. We recommend extra nights in The Rock Inn at Haytor (upgrading for extra comfort). See 'Prices' tab for what's included.
Suggested route pairing: Cornwall, Welsh Borders, Coastal Exmoor, Dorset
How much walking?
Full days: 11-19 km per day, 3-6 hrs walking
Using shortening options: 10-14 km per day, 3-4 hrs
A tale of two rivers
Devon and Cornwall occupy the south-west peninsula of England, an area defined by England’s remarkable maritime heritage. Devon, perhaps the lesser known of the two counties, nevertheless contains three great and ancient ports of which two, Exeter and Dartmouth, form the beginning and end of this route.
The journey between the two centres takes you through some of the most beautiful and varied country in the British Isles. After a night in medieval Exeter and a short taxi ride, the route takes you up the wooded Teign Gorge to stylish Chagford, stopping en-route to visit imposing Castle Drogo. Then on to legendary Dartmoor: windswept downs of a lonely and unsurpassable beauty and the background to much literature, both romantic and mystical. Overnight in pretty Haytor Vale, then a breathtaking walk along the fringes of the moor to the upper reaches of the River Dart, where your journey back to the sea begins. Buckfast Abbey, Dartington Hall and the fine town of Totnes itself line themselves along this majestic waterway, winding down to the sea at the historic town of Dartmouth, from where many a buccaneer sailed and, more notably, the base from which the Pilgrim Fathers sailed in the Mayflower to colonise the New World.
Staying in country inns and carefully chosen B&Bs, and with a variety of ways to shorten and ease the walking (including a steam train and a river steamer!), the walker will experience the best that England can offer, though should be ready to navigate intelligently as the paths are not always well signed.
Walked by On Foot staff: Simon, Harriet and Emma (and partially by Mary and Debbie)
Consider pairing this route – Devon/Cornwall (4 hrs by bus and train), Devon/Welsh Borders (6 hrs by bus, train and taxi), Coastal Exmoor/Devon (1½ hrs by bus and train) or Dorset/Devon (1 hr by bus and train) – for more details click here.
REVIEWS: For independent walker reviews of this route submitted to the Association of Independent Tour Operators visit AITO.com.
ARTICLES: Read articles about On Foot’s Devon holiday on the Silver Travel Advisor website here, and from The Sunday Telegraph newspaper here.
Writer Andrew Morris also managed to coincide with the annual Fair at Widecombe-in-the-Moor during his trip, and wrote about it here.
Route Highlights
- Exeter cathedral with its incredible vaulted ceiling
- The wooded Teign Gorge and Lutyens’ Castle Drogo
- Stylish Chagford
- Dartmoor, wild hills and long views
- Hound Tor, Haytor Rocks, Rippon Tor
- Buckfast Abbey and Dartington Hall
- Totnes High Street
- The Dart estuary
- Agatha Christie’s Greenway
- Dartmouth
This route features the following characteristics and interests: Coast, Villages and farms, Birdwatching, Drive to route, History
Things you should know
- Lifts with the luggage are not possible.
- There are few taxis in this area.
- The weather can be unreliable!
We Recommend
Upgrades in various stops - stay an extra night in the cosy inn at Haytor for some free walking around Haytor Rocks; stay at Dartington Hall, watching an arthouse film in the evening and dining in the vaulted hall.
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: 10-14 km per day, 3-4 hrs
Reasonable signposting on most days, though navigational alertness needed, with careful attention to the route directions particularly Haytor-Scorriton across the moor. Highest point of route 530m. Underfoot conditions mainly good.
Medium: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 441m (300m-600m) per day.
Easy-Medium: CUSs 279m (100m-400m) using shortening options.
Acrophobia/vertigo warnings: None. This is a low-level route with no drops or challenging terrain.
On Foot Holidays Companion app available from 2025, for GPS navigation/mapping and all other documentation and advice. Separate GPX files for your own device also available.
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
The best months to walk: May, June, July, August, September
Other possible months: April and October
The best time to go is any time between May and September, though the summer months can have accommodation availability problems so you may not get the accommodation you are hoping for. In early and late season the length of daylight can make the use of shortening options sensible.
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Temperature and rainfall chart for Dartington
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrive in Exeter (or Dunsford)
Arrive in Exeter, check in to your accommodation and take a look at the cathedral and other ancient delights (a second night here would be rewarding).
Day 2 - Dunsford to Chagford
After a short taxi ride from Exeter, this long but easy walk follows the River Teign upstream through the remarkable Teign Gorge. Look out for black and white Dippers (river birds who can ‘fly’ through the water) sitting in the river along the way. You have the opportunity to visit an Iron Age fort before lunching at the atmospheric Fingle Bridge Inn, and then on to Castle Drogo, home of the Drewe family. Built by Edwin Lutyens in 1930, it is reportedly the last castle to be built in England. Your goal, Chagford, is a fine moorland town with some excellent shops and inns. (Medium: 5 hrs walking (allow 6¾ hrs), 19 km (12 miles), CUSs 350m) OR (Exeter starts only) Taxi to Drewsteignton followed by easy walk via Castle Drogo (Easy: 2½ hrs walking (allow 3¼ hrs, 8 km (5 miles), CUSs 175m)
Day 3 - Chagford to Haytor Vale
Today’s walk leaves Chagford with a steep climb in exchange for rewarding views and your first real taste of the moor. The walk then descends for some pretty walking through ancient farmlands and varied countryside before a dramatic re-entry up onto the moor and a spectacular finish. The day will take in some of Dartmoor’s most iconic sights such as Hound Tor and Haytor Rocks before an easy descent to your atmospheric moorland inn. (Easy-Medium: (4¾ hrs walking (allow 6¼ hrs), 17 km (10½ miles), CUSs 650m).
Day 4 - Haytor Vale to Scorriton
The day starts with exploration of Haytor Rocks and its remarkable granite quarry. This is followed by a steep-but-short climb of Rippon Tor for panoramic views and then a gradual, easy descent off the moor onto more inhabited ground. A short stint of walking through some delightful woodland brings you to river country and the wonderful River Dart. This marks a turning point in the scenery as the windswept drama of Dartmoor is replaced by gentle riverside paths and charming thatched-cottage villages. Leave the river (for today) at an ancient Medieval bridge, and one of only a few crossing points on this section of the river, to head up through farmland to Scorriton for the night. (Easy-medium:(4¾ hrs walking (allow 6¼ hrs), 15½ km (9½ miles), CUSs 500m)
Day 5 - Scorriton to Dartington
Today’s walk takes you away from the moorland landscape of Dartmoor, and into the softer South Hams, with its voluptuous rolling hills and hidden valleys. The walk starts with a gentle introduction through ancient woodlands and then on to beautiful Buckfast Abbey. After this you enter the bucolic South Devon countryside, walking the delightful ‘green lanes’ to Staverton, where you will meet the River Dart once again. Continue through Dartington Hall Estate (world famous for its summer music schools, and its beautiful quad and Great Hall). It’s then an easy walk down to Dartington village, to a welcome pint in the lively Cott Inn. (Medium: 5¼ hrs walking (allow 7 hrs), 20¾ km (13 miles), CUSs 650m).
Alternative: If you would like a shorter day or simply have some different fun, you can take a steam train for the stretch from Buckfastleigh to Staverton and save 8km of walking (Easy-medium: 3½ hrs walking (allow 4¾ hrs), 14 km (9 miles), CUSs 405m)
Day 6 - Dartington to Ashprington
A short day spent walking in the South Hams of Devon, the area of South Devon between Dartmoor and the sea, with a visit to Totnes. This region is of gently undulating hills, verdant pastures and spectacular views of the river Dart. The moorland left far behind, you are following the River Dart to the tidal reach of the sea at Totnes and beyond towards the coast, to finish your day a few kilometres upriver from the sea. Highlights of the day include time to visit the beautiful town of Totnes with its famous High Street and various eateries. (Easy-medium: 2½ hrs walking (allow 3¼ hrs), 9¼ km (6 miles), CUSs 300m)
Day 7 - Ashprington to Dartmouth
A delightful end to your walk with quintessential English charm around every corner. Pass through the delightful village of Cornworthy and re-join the river and walk along the river bank into Dittisham. After sampling Dittisham’s enviable collection of eateries, summon the boatman to ferry you across to Agatha Christie’s ‘Greenway’ (pre-booking advised). It’s then an easy walk above the river into picturesque Kingswear, and another ferry sees you sail into beautiful Dartmouth, and journey’s end. (Medium: 5 hrs walking (allow 6¾ hrs), 16¾ km (10½ miles), CUSs 570m OR shorten by taking boat from Greenway to Dartmouth Easy: 3 hrs walking (allow 4 hrs), 7 km (4½ miles), CUSs 295m)
Departure day
Depart for home, or why not stay extra nights in this fine old seaport? Whichever, your options for getting home include a steam train to the railhead at Paignton or a boat trip to Totnes!
Travel Information
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Nearest railway station:
Start: Exeter Central
Finish: Totnes by bus from Dartmouth, or Paignton by private steam train in season
ARRIVING BY CAR
Leave car at Exeter St David’s railway station, ten minutes walk from Telstar Guest House and city centre. Pre-booking not available. At the end use the bus and train from Dartmouth to return.
For those starting at places other than Exeter, a taxi back from Dartmouth to the start point would be best – contact On Foot Holidays for advice on the best parking spots.
ARRIVING BY AIR
The best “local” airport is either Exeter or Bristol. Intercontinental flights use London airports.
EXETER AIRPORT is situated close to the city. Local taxi best.
BRISTOL AIRPORT
Land by: 16:00 for shuttle + train to Exeter (~2 hrs).
Return flight earliest: 12:00 for train connections from Paignton or Totnes (~3 hrs) – accessed by bus or private steam train (Kingswear-Paignton, seasonal)
HEATHROW AIRPORT
Land by: 14:00 for shuttle to Reading + train to Exeter (~3 hrs).
Return flight earliest: 14:00 for train connections from Paignton or Totnes (~3 hrs) – accessed by bus or private steam train (Kingswear-Paignton, seasonal)
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.
See “Getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information
Getting to the start of the walk
The first hotel is in the city of Exeter or the village of Chagford, depending on route version, and the last in the port of Dartmouth. Transfer times and methods are suggestions from London Heathrow airport, but you can also fly to Exeter or Bristol.
LONDON HEATHROW
Outward: Airport bus to Reading station, then train to Exeter Central (~2½ hrs), then short walk or local taxi to first hotel/B&B (or prearranged taxi on from Exeter train station to Chagford)
Return: Historic steam train from Kingswear to Paignton, train to Reading then airport bus to Heathrow (~4 hrs)
Alternatively, take the more efficient (if less exciting) bus from Dartmouth to Totnes to connect to the train network. The same bus also continues on to Exeter.
Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information.
Where You'll Stay
A wonderful array of village pubs and B&Bs on this walk. You can also upgrade in Chagford and Dartmouth.
Night 1
Exeter – City Gate Hotel (B&B)
Boutique pub with rooms in a quiet part of Exeter, just five minutes from the cathedral.
Night 1 (Upgrade)
Exeter – Southernhay House Hotel (B&B)
A luxuriously converted grade II Georgian building in a quiet part of the city. Double rooms only (each room has one bed).
Night 2
Chagford – The Globe Inn (B&B)
Good quality hotel in the village centre. Upgrade to a superior room for a small supplement.
Night 2 (Upgrade)
Chagford – The Three Crowns (B&B)
Former coaching inn with lots of space and comfortable rooms.
Night 4
Scorriton – The Tradesman’s Arms (B&B)
Great village pub with quiet rooms above, presided over by Kevin and Suzanne.
Night 4 (Upgrade)
Scorriton – Mitchelcroft (B&B)
Stunning modern B&B with three lovely rooms and a beautiful outlook. Owners Michael and Debbie are walkers too. Min. 2 night stay in peak times.
Night 5
Dartington – The Cott Inn (B&B)
Award winning pub with great atmosphere and comfortable rooms. Might be noisy on Fri/Sat nights and there are weekly live-music events. Please ask us for advice.
Night 7
Dartmouth – Bayards Cove Inn (B&B)
Comfortable rooms above a restaurant in a historic building, close to the sea front. Some of the rooms are on the small side, but the atmosphere more than makes up for it.
Prices
Total 7 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts and 2 picnics, luggage transfers between all hotels on walking route; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.
Also included: On Foot Holidays Companion app (from 2025), providing navigation/mapping and digital version of the Walkers’ Pack as above. Separate GPX files for your own device also available. If choosing to walk with app only (no printed materials): Discount of £40 per pack (based on one pack per room) from 2025.
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.
Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £490
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £205
Large party saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) – discount of at least £15 per person
Maximum party size: 10
Important: please note that the luggage transfers are priced on the basis of one item of luggage per person. Extra luggage will be charged accordingly.
Add Ons
Extra nights and upgrades: Contact On Foot Holidays (seasonal pricing)
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: £20-£60 (per pack, location dependent)
Our local team
Caroline Evans
Caroline has lived in rural South Devon for 25 years. Now that her children have all left home, she spends her time teaching and producing art, attempting to master Spanish, and helping tend the smallholding, whilst her husband also fills the sheds with plenty of logs for the winter