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Camino Primitivo de Santiago (Stage 1) – 8 nights
In the steps of King Alfonso the Chaste
Back to Routes
Leaving Tineo
Approaching Berducedo
The old road
Grazing in the meadow
Historic Salas
Boundary stones
Approaching Melide the landscape softens
On the way to Campiello
The bridge at Arzua
Camino waymark at San Jorge
A cross marking 'The Way'
A local grain store - an 'horreo'
At a glance
8 nights (7 walking days - missing first two walking days). Stage 1 of Camino, from Oviedo to Lugo. Shortenable to 7 nights if you miss Campiello (see itinerary). For extra nights we recommend Oviedo, Castroverde and Lugo. See 'Prices' tab for what's included.
Suggested route pairing: Galicia - Lighthouse Way
How much walking?
Full days: 14-33 km per day, 4-8 hrs walking
Using shortening options: 14-27km per day, or less with local taxi use.
In the steps of King Alfonso the Chaste (760-842 AD)
NB: This route will not be available from November 2024 onwards. Do consider our other routes in Galicia for 2025 – Lighthouse Way or Ribeira Sacra.
8-night version (Stage 1 of Camino – Oviedo to Lugo).
For general introduction see 14 night version. This version misses out the first two walking days (compromised in any event by road construction), and the nights in Grado and Salas. For general introduction see 14 night version.
The grading of this walk (medium-hard) is more an attestation to the length of the days rather than ups-and-downs; the underfoot conditions are good in the main (prepared path for the final two days) and navigation via the famous scallop shells is easy. You can always shorten days by calling local taxis.
Walked by On Foot staff: Simon, Mary and Debbie
Consider pairing this route with Galicia – Lighthouse Way (included taxi from Santiago to start, easiest if ending in Santiago), or Ribeira Sacra (40 mins by train to Ourense, plus taxi) – for more details click here.
REVIEWS: For independent walker reviews submitted to the Association of Independent Tour Operators visit Aito.com.
TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to Spain, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency.
Route Highlights
- The cathedral at Oviedo
- The “Hospitales” ridge walk
- Longarela – the prettiest accommodation on the route
- Roman Lugo, its walls, little streets and cathedral
This route features the following characteristics and interests: Pilgrimage, Villages and farms, History
Things you should know
- Days can be long, though not unduly arduous. Lifts are sometimes possible.
- As a pilgrim route, it’s about the destination, though the Primitivo is prettier than other versions.
- It can get quite crowded on the last few days as the Caminos converge.
- Accommodation is simple but always with your own facilities (unless we tell you otherwise).
- Don’t expect gourmet meals, and those requiring vegan/coeliac food will find the meals basic.
We Recommend
Attaining the Compostela. Extra nights in Oviedo and Lugo. Specially good accommodation in Castroverde and As Seixas may also make an extra night worth considering.
Important note
Connoisseurs of On Foot Holidays should know that this walk is atypical in several ways. Firstly, by following an established route we have little control of scenery and accommodation, though in the former case you will enjoy the grandeur of the Asturian Hills and prettiness of the Galician countryside. However the choice of accommodation in some villages is very restricted, but where we can offer an upgrade (often involving a short transfer) we do.
Secondly, the route finding offers no challenges so our route notes are short (mercifully, some might say) and concentrate on the things to see about you. There are unfortunately some sections on asphalt, a few busier than one would wish; console yourself with the knowledge that the Camino Primitivo has the smallest percentage of asphalt of all the Ways.
Thirdly you will not be alone. While the Asturian section is not overly-used, after Melide (two-and-a-half days out from Santiago) the route merges with the Camino Frances and you will be with many others. Here is your opportunity to find out about what makes the other pilgrims do the Way (there are many different reasons); solitude is not an option.
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: 14-27km per day, or less with local taxi use.
Long days, but on well-marked paths and excellent signage. Highest point on route: 1200m. No vertigo issues.
Medium-hard: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 635m (300m-900m) per day.
Shortening options always available with local taxis (travelling with luggage not an option as these transfers are by carrier).
GPX file available for handheld GPS or smartphone App for complete route.
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
NB: This route will not be available from November 2024 onwards. Do consider our other routes in Galicia for 2025 – Lighthouse Way or Ribeira Sacra.
Best months to walk: May, June, September, October
Other possible months: April
While the weather in the Asturian Hills limits the walking season for most versions of this walk, the 5-night option from Lugo to Santiago has a longer season. We recommend May-June for flowers and October for autumn colour and pleasant walking conditions. We don’t offer July and August as it can be very hot and the crowd of boisterous pilgrims may overwhelm. Try to be in Santiago on a Friday evening to enjoy the pilgrims’ service in the cathedral, when the Botafumeiro might be in full swing. Use the calendar below to see in more detail the best times to walk.
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Temperature and rainfall chart for Lugo
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrive in Oviedo
Arrive in Oviedo, settle into your hotel and wander around the old town and cathedral before supper and a good night's sleep before you start your journey.
Day 2 - Transfer to Salas then walk to Tineo
After a thirty-minute transfer to historic Salas, walk up a wooded valley out of the town, with a detour opportunity for waterfall viewing, to meet a main road. About 1km of road follwos, then off to meet an under-construction road before finally arriving at La Espina. After La Espina (shops and bars) the Camino follows quiet country roads and tracks. Pleasant for the first hour and from La Espina, with wide views across the valley. (Medium-hard: 5 hrs, 19km, CUSs 650m) Shorten with local taxi to La Espina (Easy: 3 hrs, 11km, CUSs 300m)
Day 3 - Tineo to Campiello
A very short day starts with a fabulous walk out of Tineo and up to the ridge via a balcony route with great views south. Then down on tracks and paths towards the abandoned but atmospheric Obona monastery. The final stretch into Campiello is an unavoidable asphalt haul, but you will be warmly welcomed on arrival by the legendary Herminia. (Easy-medium: 3½ hrs walking (allow 4¾ hrs), 14 km (9 miles), CUSs 330m).
Option
Pre-arranged alternative: the short "Day 5", and the Campiello night, can be missed altogether with a lift from Tineo to either La Mortera for the high level Day 6 Hospitales route or to Pola for the lower level (perhaps bad weather) but equally enjoyable route, both joining at Puerto del Palo.
This shortens the route by one night.
Day 4 - Campiello to Berducedo - the Hospitales route
Campiello to Berducedo. Rightly feted as one of the Camino Primitivo’s best sections with a remote 3 hour walk up to 1200m, fabulous 360 degree views once on the ridge and 3 ruined ‘hospitales’ to ponder on. The descent from Puerto del Palo to Montefurado is also famous, for all the wrong reasons (steep underfoot) but it is short, and thereafter the day is pleasant and undemandingly rural. (Hard: 8 hrs walking (allow 10¾ hrs), 27 km (17 miles), CUSs 900m, or 6½ hrs walking (allow 8¾ hrs), 21 km (13 miles), CUSs 750m with local taxi at start)
Bad weather alternative: Local taxi at start to Pola for equally beautiful, route up to Puerto del Palo where the two routes join (Medium-hard: 5 hrs walking (allow 6¾ hrs), 18 km (11½ miles), CUSs 800m)
Day 5 - Berducedo to Las Grandas
We suggest making an early start from Berducedo to enjoy the sun coming up over the ridge behind you, a late breakfast in a delightful cafe in the next village, lunch at Las Grandas hotel by the reservoir, and time to visit the very wonderful Ethnographic Museum in Las Grandas (not Mondays). (Medium-hard: 5½ hrs walking (allow 7¼ hrs), 20 km (12½ miles), CUSs 700m – no realistic shortening options)
Day 6 - Grandas to Fonsagrada
A day of two halves: the first often on an original Camino way through ancient woodland with small chapels to peer through their grilles at (always locked!). However, you are heading for the ridge which divides Asturias from Galicia. Down the other side is a potential lunch stop at Acevo’s old (and only) bar before the climb to ridge top Fonsagrada. Includes 2 km main road walking. (Hard: 6 hrs walking (allow 8 hrs), 26 km (16½ miles), CUSs 800m OR local taxi to Acevo then walk – easy: 3 hrs walking (allow 4 hrs), 12 km (7½ miles), CUSs 300m)
Day 7 - Fonsagrada to Castroverde
One of the most pleasant days on the Camino Primitivo, with plenty of track and path walking and little asphalt, plus congenial bars to break up the day. Some of the scenery is very beautiful – wide ranging vistas from the ridge-top windmills, peaceful valleys where rural Galician life can be viewed. The day ends easily with a largely gentle, easy descent to Cadavo and another ascent to the little town of Castroverde from where you will be picked up by your hosts. (Hard: 8½ hrs walking (allow 11¼ hrs), 33 km (20½ miles), CUSs 900m or save 8 km at the end with a taxi from Cadavo (arrange/pay locally) – medium-hard: 6½ hrs walking (allow 8¾ hrs), 25 km (15½ miles), CUSs 650m)
Day 8 - Castroverde to Lugo
An undemanding day’s walk on good tracks and quiet (in the main) roads through gentle countryside and pretty stone villages, finally arriving in Lugo itself, one of the highlights of the camino. Massive and ancient stone walls surround the historic centre so be sure to leave enough time to explore. (Medium-hard: 6 hrs walking (allow 8 hrs), 23 km (14½ miles), CUSs 470m )
Option
An extra night in Lugo provides a good break, and a chance to explore the old core of this Roman-walled town.
Departure day
The end must come, and it is time to say goodbye to your fellow pilgrims.
Travel Information
ARRIVING BY TRAIN OR BUS
Nearest railway stations:
Start: Oviedo (for Oviedo or Salas), OR fast train to Leon (2 hrs) then regular bus (1.5 hrs) to Oviedo; Lugo (for Lugo/Castroverde)
Finish: Lugo (for Lugo end), Santiago de Compostela
Train timings:
Madrid to Oviedo – 4½ hrs (nb only two a day at the time of writing)
Madrid to Leon – 2 hrs then bus as above to Oviedo
Lugo to Madrid – 4½ hrs
Santiago to Madrid – 3½ hrs
Santiago to A Coruña – 1 hr
Santander to Oviedo – 2½ hrs (bus)
See the Renfe page for trains, and Alsa for bus times and booking.
ARRIVING AND DEPARTING BY AIR
If starting in Oviedo or Salas the best local airport is Asturias/Oviedo – non-daily flights so choose your start date with care (short shuttle to Oviedo town, or taxi transfer). Europe-wide and internal Spanish flights available.
The most convenient departure airports for Lugo finishers are Santiago and A Coruña – Santiago finishers can additionally check Vigo flights.
Intercontinental flights use Madrid or Barcelona – take internal flights from there (or transfer by train/bus – see below).
OVIEDO (for Oviedo starts)
Land by: 16:30 if using public transport (later arrivals possible, missing supper).
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA (for Lugo/Castroverde starts, all finishes)
Land by: 13:00 if using public transport to Lugo
Return flight earliest: No limit
A CORUNA (for Lugo/Castroverde starts, all finishes)
Land by: 13:00 if using public transport to Lugo
Return flight earliest: 13:00
Land by/return flight earliest times not applicable if using a pre-booked taxi
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.
See “Getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information.
Getting to the start of the walk
OUTWARD
Start points are Oviedo (full route) or Lugo (5-night route – Castroverde for 6-night Compostela version). 12- and 8-night routes can start optionally at Salas (missing Oviedo).
OVIEDO starts: infrequent but timetabled shuttle bus from Oviedo airport to Oviedo bus station (45 mins, ~€8) plus local taxi to hotel OR pre-booked taxi transfer from airport to first hotel. OR transfer from Oviedo train station: local taxi.
SALAS starts: Prebooked taxi transfer from Oviedo airport or train station.
LUGO or Castroverde starts: Direct bus from Santiago airport approximately every 4 hours (takes ~2 hrs), or from A Coruña airport (every 2 hrs, one change, ~3 hrs), then local taxi to hotel OR pre-booked taxi transfer from either airport to first hotel. OR transfer from Lugo train station: local taxi.
RETURN
End points are either Lugo (8 or 10-night routes) or Santiago de Compostela (5/6, 12, or 14-night routes).
LUGO finishes: Local taxi to bus station, then bus to Santiago or A Coruña airports OR pre-booked taxi transfers to either airport.
OR transfer to Lugo train station: local taxi.
SANTIAGO finishes: regular shuttle to Santiago airport. A Coruña airport can be reached by either train or bus, both involving change in A Coruña to local bus or tax OR local taxi/walk to Santiago train station.
For all pre-bookable taxi prices, see “Prices”/contact On Foot.
Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information.
Where You'll Stay
A wealth of different styles of accommodation from basic to more sophisticated, but all with en-suite facilities. Staying close to the Camino inevitably restricts choice and the only upgrade possibilities are in Lugo, Arzua and Santiago, although you would be welcome to book your own hotel in Oviedo.
Night 1
Oviedo – Barceló Oviedo Cervantes (B&B)
A 20th century mansion with modern extensions, in the heart of Oviedo.
Night 4
Berducedo – Casa de Aldea Arceli (B&B)
Recently renovated stone-built house dating from the 1600s, with large terrace and beautiful views.
Night 6
Fonsagrada – Pensión Albergue Cantábrico (B&B)
Jolly pilgrims' hostal with bedrooms on the second and third floor. Excellent breakfast.
Night 7
Castrovede – Casa Longarela (dinner, B&B)
Beautifully restored farm house with locally renowned cooking and a very warm welcome.
Night 8 (Upgrade)
Lugo – Hotel Pazo de Orban (B&B)
Set in an 18th-century baroque manor house and a 3-minute walk from the Roman Walls of Lugo.
Oviedo – Barceló Oviedo Cervantes (B&B)
A 20th century mansion with modern extensions, in the heart of Oviedo.
Website
Berducedo – Casa de Aldea Arceli (B&B)
Recently renovated stone-built house dating from the 1600s, with large terrace and beautiful views.
Fonsagrada – Pensión Albergue Cantábrico (B&B)
Jolly pilgrims' hostal with bedrooms on the second and third floor. Excellent breakfast.
Website
Castrovede – Casa Longarela (dinner, B&B)
Beautifully restored farm house with locally renowned cooking and a very warm welcome.
Website
Cadavo – Albergue Pension Porta Santa (B&B)
Private rooms in a pilgrim 'albergue' - simple but comfortable, with a friendly host.
Website
Lugo – Hotel Pazo de Orban (B&B)
Set in an 18th-century baroque manor house and a 3-minute walk from the Roman Walls of Lugo.
Website
Prices
Total 8 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 2 evening meals, luggage transfers between all hotels on walking route; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.
Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £215
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £135
Maximum party size: 10
Add Ons
Extra nights in Oviedo (not 5 night version), Lugo, Longarela (not 5-night unless adding on), As Seixas or Santiago: Enquire – seasonal pricing
Taxi from Oviedo airport to Oviedo hotel or to Salas (all versions except 5-night): £85-100 up to 8 people (depends on party size, time and day)
Taxi from Santiago to A Coruña airport: Enquire
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: £20-£60 (per pack, location dependent)
Our local team
Aznar Fernandez de Pinedo
Aznar was born and grew up in Bilbao, where he soon developed his love for nature (he is a keen naturalist), hiking and the rural environment in general. He studied Business and has worked for many years in multinational corporations in the IT sector, living in both Barcelona and Madrid. But in 2014 he decided to change his career to work on what he loves most.
