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Foothills of the Picos de Europa

  • 7 Night Route

    Price: from £975
  • 6 Night Route

    Price: from £850
  • 5 Night Route

    Price: from £775

Through the green heart of Cantabria to the peaks

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The pretty town of Potes

The pretty town of Potes

Mountain chalet in the Picos de Europa

Mountain chalet in the Picos de Europa

The beautiful Camaleño valley

The beautiful Camaleño valley

Potes - and into the mountains!

Potes - and into the mountains!

A place to rest for a moment

A place to rest for a moment

Among the peaks

Among the peaks

Santo Toribio de Liébana

Santo Toribio de Liébana

Ermita de Santa Catalina

Ermita de Santa Catalina

Green hills of Cantabria

Green hills of Cantabria

Wild horses roam the mountain pastures

Wild horses roam the mountain pastures

Autumn colours

Autumn colours

Espinama

Espinama

Panoramic views above Fuente Dé

Panoramic views above Fuente Dé

  • 7 Night Route

    Price: from £975
  • 6 Night Route

    Price: from £850
  • 5 Night Route

    Price: from £775
Price: from £975
Nights: 7
Grade:
Walk: 3-5½ hr/day
Foothills of the Picos de Europa - On Foot Holidays

At a glance

Picos de Europa 7-night option (6 days walking) - the standard version of the walk. Add extra nights in Potes and Fuente Dé to make the most of the area. See 'Prices' tab for what's included.
Suggested route pairing: Basque Pyrenees

How much walking?

Full days: 9-20 km per day, 3-5½ hrs walking
Using shortening options: 9-16 km per day, 2½- 4½ hrs walking

Max. Grade:

Mountain valleys of wild Cantabria

There was a time when the indomitable jagged tips of the grey Picos mountains heralded a return to safety for weary sailors, signalling that the Spanish mainland (Europa?) was in sight and home nearby. Today, the mountains beckon a different traveller – the walker. Whilst most adventurers flock to the busy western massif, we turn our attention to the eastern foothills of the Picos de Europa National Park, where tranquil green valleys belie the wilderness beyond.

Our route follows a network of little-used farm tracks scattered across the valleys of Polaciones and Liébana, stopping at tiny villages to stay in wayside inns (and more comfortable hotels too), to enjoy a glass of Orujo with the locals and sample the hearty Lebaniego stew. Vultures and eagles soar overhead whilst Cantabrian brown bears and Iberian Wolves find sanctuary in the undisturbed hills away from your path. Continue west through bustling Potes and every step brings you closer to the massive cliffs waiting at Espinama and Fuente Dé. On your final day, scale those cliffs (by cable-car!) to nearly 2000m above sea level and experience a different world of bare rock and alpine pastures. The best views are yet to come on a glorious descent across the wooded hillsides back to your celebratory dinner and the end of your great Cantabrian traverse.

Walked by On Foot staff: Simon and Harriet

Consider pairing this route with the Basque Pyrenees (4½-5 hours by bus and taxi via Bilbao) – for more details click here.

TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to Spain, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency.

Route Highlights

  • Historic Potes with its many excellent restaurants
  • The monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana
  • Traditional cuisine including chickpea stew, Tudanca cheeses and fiery Orujo
  • The tart, dry cider of España Verde
  • Eagles, vultures and wolves
  • The cable car of Fuente Dé and the Refugio di Aliva

This route features the following characteristics and interests: Mountains, Villages and farms, Birdwatching, Drive to route

Things you should know

  • About 75% of the route is on quiet gravel tracks (not footpaths).
  • The food in La Lastra and Pejanda is simple but authentic.
  • The cable-car walk is weather dependent (although lowland valley options will also be provided).
  • Travel to/from the route is not straightforward and taxis may be necessary.
  • A basic understanding of Spanish (or Google Translate!) is useful, especially before reaching Potes.

We Recommend

Consider upgrading to the Parador at Fuente Dé where a third night would make for a luxurious end to the holiday. A second night in Potes is also highly recommended as you can explore an additional circuit walk with fabulous views and enjoy the ambience of the medieval town.

Eating and Drinking

The food on this route is largely simple but wholesome, with traditional mountain cooking designed to fuel long days in the hills. You’ll sample the Cocido Lebaniego (chickpeas, potatoes and cabbage, usually with pork or beef) and Quesada Pasiega (a sort-of-cheesecake). Potes has the best variety of restaurants (you will eat well!) but the end of the route is not to be overlooked: Espinama’s Hostal Remoña specialises in local, seasonal produce, and the chefs at the Parador de Fuente Dé are keen to impress with a more formal menu.

The area is not known for its fine wines, but the local offerings are highly enjoyable, along with artisan beers, ciders and of course, orujo.

How much Walking?

Full days: 9-20 km per day, 3-5½ hrs walking
Using shortening options: 9-16 km per day, 2½- 4½ hrs walking

The majority of the route is unsigned, however, the navigation is straightforward on the whole. The terrain is generally forgiving underfoot with no rocky/scree areas. Highest point on route: 1930m.

Medium: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 535m (400m-675m) per day.

Easy/Medium: CUSs 345m (60m-475m) per day using shortening options where available, including some taxi transfers (local supplement).

Acrophobia/vertigo warnings: Not for the walking, but use of the cable car is unavoidable for the high circuit on the last day.

On Foot Holidays Companion app available for GPS navigation/mapping and all other documentation and advice. Separate GPX files for your own device also available.

Important note: Times given for each day are  walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.

When to go?

The best months to walk: May, June, mid-September to early-October

Other possible months: late April, very early July, early September, late October

This walking route features a mixture of sheltered valleys and exposed alpine walking, so the weather challenges change as the route progresses. Early and late season walkers (late-April and mid-to-late October) might have to sacrifice the high cable-car circuit on the final day if the weather proves inclement.

May and June are both good months for walking although mid June and early July can be hot. The route is not offered in late July and August due to the heat. Early September can also be hot, but mid September to early October is an excellent time to go. It is possible to stretch the season into late October, though walkers should be prepared for a higher chance of poor weather and possibly more limited choice of restaurants etc.

Start Dates

Recommended
Possible
Unavailable

Weather Chart

 

Weather and rainfall chart for Potes

Itinerary

About the Route

Day 1 - La Lastra

Arrive in the mountain village of La Lastra. Acquaint yourself with your surroundings by taking a short walk to the nearby village of Tudanca, known for its small museum and literary collection.

Day 2 - La Lastra to Pejanda

A gentle introduction to the green hillsides of Cantabria, the lower, more verdant mountains that will be replaced by sharper peaks after you reach Potes in a few days. The walk begins with a sustained climb on a good track towards the valley head before turning at the col and continuing to climb on a lovely path with views down to La Lastra and Tudanca. The path contours gently through the valley and offers increasingly dramatic views of the La Cohilla reservoir, with griffon vultures ever-present overhead. Red-roofed farm buildings and shepherd huts begin to appear as you descend, indicating that you have entered into the bucolic surrounds of the Polaciones valley. (Medium: 3¾ hrs walking (allow 5 hrs), 12¾ km (8 miles), CUSs 620m)

If you fancy an easier day or should the weather prove wet, then we suggest taking a taxi all the way to Pejanda, and instead walk a circular route in the hills surrounding the village. This is an easier option as the walk presents no significant challenges and is almost entirely on gravel tracks. (Easy/Medium: 3 hrs walking (allow 4 hrs), 10½ km (6½ miles), CUSs 400m)

Day 3 - Pejanda to Pesaguero

Today’s walk will pass through the valleys and woodlands that have defined the livelihoods of local people for centuries. The route follows the Polaciones valley and dips in and out of tiny red-roofed villages making use of good tracks and plenty of shade. Traditional farming practices are widely used, so walkers in the shoulder-seasons are likely to be accompanied by the near constant echo of cow-bells whilst the herds await the summer access to higher alpine pastures.  There are occasional views of the Picos massif and the final part of the day follows the famous Camino Lebaniego. (Medium: 5 hrs walking (allow 6¾ hrs), 18 km (11¼ miles), CUSs 500m)

Alternatives: 
Take a taxi as far as Santa Eulalia (Medium: 15km, CUSs 400m) or Cabezuela Viewpoint (Easy/Medium: 12km, CUSs 185m)

Day 4 - Pesaguero to Potes

An excellent day with varied walking and plenty of views. Leave Pesaguero via the Camino Lebaniego and follow a mix of paths and tracks along the valley floor. The route begins to climb gently through villages, and glimpses of the Picos cliffs appear more frequently the higher you climb. Stay on a good, high track for some quick walking through light woodland, and then another short climb in the afternoon leads into wonderful green mountain pastures with excellent views. The second half of the day is very remote and a gradual descent will lead you into Potes which remains hidden in the valley until the very final approach. (Medium/Hard: 5¼ hrs walking (allow 7 hrs), 20 km (12½ miles), CUSs 575m)

Alternatives: Taxi (supplement) as far as Lomena (Medium: 16½km, CUSs 420m) or Los Cos (Easy/Medium: 11½km, CUSs 300m).

Day 5 - Potes to Cosgaya

An interesting day which starts with an easy ascent out of Potes to the Monastery de Santo Toribio (and the end of the Camino Lebaniego). You then have a choice: a pretty meandering path through high woodland with occasional views to dramatic peaks, or a good track that passes through villages on the valley bottom. Both routes join in the afternoon on the old mountain “road” which gradually climbs the valley sides and offers great views to the ever-nearing Picos. (Medium: 4 hrs walking (allow 5¼ hrs), 14½ km (9 miles), CUSs 675m)

Alternative: taxi (supplement) as far as the Monastery Santo Toribio (Medium: 11¾km, CUSs 465m).

Alternative: The main route follows the northern side of the valley and is predominantly on tracks. If you fancy a change of terrain then try the ‘harder’ option which follows sometimes-narrow footpaths through a beautiful green wilderness. There is an element of wayfinding and the terrain is much more varied underfoot. (Medium/Hard: 5 hrs walking (allow 6¾ hrs), 14½ km (9 miles), CUSs 710m)

Option

Those that wish for a more authentic cultural experience might enjoy the Agriturismo Trevino (instead of the Hotel del Oso). The Agriturismo Trevino is an 18th century farmhouse set high on the hillside. You should expect little in the way of creature comforts and Spanish language skills are essential, however, this accommodation offers a remarkable glimpse into a rapidly-disappearing way of life.

Day 6 - Cosgaya to Espinama or Fuente Dé

A day of options! The main route climbs out of Cosgaya to the village of Pembes before turning westward and meandering through woodland all the way to Espinama. Views are occasional but this option should be taken for those that wish for an easier day. If, however, you fancy a challenge then continue north at Pembes and ascend the hillside through alpine meadows and mixed woodland. After a seemingly endless climb, emerge from the trees to spectacular views before bearing west to begin the descent. A little-used woodland path contours through glorious oak woodland, finally moving onto a broader track above Espinama.  (Main route: Easy/Medium: 2¾ hrs walking (allow 3¾ hrs), 9 km (5½ miles), CUSs 450m. Harder option: Medium: 3½ hrs walking (allow 4¾ hrs), 11 km (7 miles), CUSs 750m)

Option

For those that choose to upgrade to the Parador at Fuente Dé, the route extends by 3 km through woodland and meadows along the valley bottom.

Day 7 - Espinama or Fuente Dé high mountain circuit

A remarkable day of dramatic views and changing scenery. The route begins with an easy start along the valley bottom to the cable car station at Fuente Dé. The cable car whisks you up the escarpment to 1823m in just four minutes. The route then follows an easy descent through a lunar landscape of bare rock and grey jagged peaks to the Aliva mountain refuge. Stop for lunch-with-a-view before continuing on. The inhospitable surrounds transform as you descend into verdant alpine pastures with the ring of cow-bells echoing all around. Exit the valley onto a small footpath through meadows and lowland forested slopes.  (Medium: 4½ hrs walking (allow 6 hrs), 16¼ km (10 miles), CUSs 400m)

Option

Those staying at the Parador at Fuente Dé will start the walk at the cable car station, reducing the distance by 3km.

Departure day

Depart for home, or perhaps stay a day longer to make the most of the extraordinary surrounds.

Travel Information

Travel to and from the route requires careful planning as public transport options are limited. For the start of the walk, the nearest train/bus station is at Torrelavega and a taxi is included in the holiday price between Torrelavega and La Lastra.  At the end of the holiday, the nearest bus station is at Potes and a taxi is included in the holiday price between Espinama/Fuente Dé and Potes. From Potes, take a bus to Torrelavega for train connections. These taxis can be extended/changed as required. See below for more information.

TRAVELLING BY TRAIN

Nearest railway station:
Start: Torrelavega (then pre-booked taxi to start of walk)
Finish: Torrelavega (pre-booked taxi from end of walk to Potes, then bus from Potes to Torrelavega)

Sample journey by rail:

Via Paris and Hendaye: TGV Paris Gare Montparnasse to Hendaye/Irun (~5 hrs). Then train to Burgos (~4 hrs). Then bus Burgos to Torrelavega (~2.5 hrs).

Via Paris and Barcelona: TGV Paris Gare de Lyon to Barcelona (~7 hrs). Train to Torrelavega via Madrid (~8.5 hrs).

Via Madrid: Direct train to Torrelavega (~4-5 hrs).

We suggest thetrainline.com for times, ticket booking and other information.

TRAVELLING BY CAR AND/OR FERRY

An option to be considered for anyone travelling by ferry into Santander. The journey time is about 1.5 hours from the port to the start of the route. On-street parking is available at La Lastra and a taxi to return to your car will be included in your itinerary.

TRAVELLING BY AIR

The best airports with European flights are Santander and Bilbao. Intercontinental flights use Madrid, followed by an internal flight to Santander or Bilbao (or the train from Madrid to Torrelavega).

Land by:
Santander – 16:30  latest
Bilbao – 14:00 latest
Madrid – 12:00 latest. NB there is only one good train connection around 13:40 so a connecting flight to Santander will be likely.

If choosing to arrive by taxi directly from the airport, the latest flight arrival at Santander is ideally around 18:00 so as not to miss dinner.

Return flight earliest:
Santander – 12:00 earliest
Bilbao – 15:30 earliest
Madrid – 18:00 earliest by train, 16:00 via a flight from Santander

If choosing to depart by taxi from Espinama/Fuente De to the airport, the latest flight departure from Santander is ideally not before 11:00.

Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.

For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.

 

Getting to the start of the walk

The first hotel is in the village of La Lastra (or Pesaguero or Potes), and the last in Espinama/Fuente Dé.

Transfer times and methods are suggested for Santander and Bilbao airports below.

SANTANDER AIRPORT:
Outward: Bus to Torrelavega (hourly~, 35 mins), then pre-booked taxi to La Lastra. Or pre-booked taxi the whole way (supplement).
Return: Pre-booked taxi to Potes (30 mins), then bus to Santander city (07:00/09:15 (weekdays only); 09:30/11:45; 17:30/19:45).  Local taxi or shuttle bus to airport.

BILBAO AIRPORT:
Outward: Bus to Torrelavega (2.5 hours, 3.5 hours if via Santander) then pre-booked taxi to La Lastra.
Return: Pre-booked taxi to Potes (30 mins) then bus to Torrelavega (07:00/08:45 (weekdays only); 09:30/11:15; 17:30/19:15) and another bus to Bilbao (2.5 hours). Or extend the taxi all the way to Torrelavega (supplement).

Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information. For taxi prices see “Prices”.

Where You'll Stay

The accommodation on this route is generally modest (though always with charm and character and ensuite bathrooms!) becoming more sophisticated as the route progresses. Consider upgrading to the elegant Parador de Fuente Dé (supplement) for your final nights.

La Lastra – El Refugio (B&B)

Night 1

La Lastra – El Refugio (B&B)

A wonderfully rural hotel with modern rooms, surrounded by spectacular scenery.

Pejanda – Casa Molleda (dinner, B&B)

Night 2

Pejanda – Casa Molleda (dinner, B&B)

Built in 1910, this authentic B&B offers traditional accommodation and Cantabrian food.

Pesaguero – El Hoyal (B&B)

Night 3

Pesaguero – El Hoyal (B&B)

A gorgeous guesthouse with an outdoor pool, stunning views, generous terrace and lush gardens.

Potes – Casa Cayo (B&B)

Night 4

Potes – Casa Cayo (B&B)

Great little hotel right in the heart of Potes with mountain and city views.

Cosgaya – Hotel del Oso (dinner, B&B)

Night 5

Cosgaya – Hotel del Oso (dinner, B&B)

A lovely hotel with a swimming pool overlooking the Liébana Valley, serving local specialities.

Espinama – Hostal Remona (dinner, B&B)

Night 6 & 7

Espinama – Hostal Remona (dinner, B&B)

Delightful guesthouse with modern rooms and restaurant specializing in local produce. Dinner included on first night only.

Fuente De – Parador Fuente De (B&B)

Night 6 & 7 (Upgrade)

Fuente De – Parador Fuente De (B&B)

An impressive Parador in the foothills of the Picos, with plenty of large windows and spectacular mountain views.

Prices

Price: from £975 for 7 nights

Total 7 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 2 evening meals, taxi from Torrelavega to first hotel, luggage transfers between all hotels on walking route; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.

Also included: On Foot Holidays Companion app, providing navigation/mapping and digital version of the Walkers’ Pack as above. Separate GPX files for your own device also available. If choosing to walk with app only (no printed materials): Discount of £40 per pack (based on one pack per room).

All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.

Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £200
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £230
Large Party Saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) – discount of at least £45 per person
Maximum party size: 8

 

Add Ons

Extra nights possible throughout the route: Contact On Foot for ideas and prices

Taxis from/to airports/train stations: Possible (Santander, Bilbao or Torrelavega at the end of the holiday). Contact On Foot Holidays for prices

Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: Supplement payable per pack, location dependent.

Arrange locally: Local train/bus/taxi as required

Travellers Blog

Wednesday 30th July | Posted by On Foot Staff

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Aznar Fernandez de Pinedo

Our local team

Aznar Fernandez de Pinedo

Aznar was born and grew up in Bilbao, where he soon developed his love for nature (he is a keen naturalist), hiking and the rural environment in general. He studied Business and has worked for many years in multinational corporations in the IT sector, living in both Barcelona and Madrid. But in 2014 he decided to change his career to work on what he loves most.

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