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Foothills of the Picos de Europa – 6 nights
Through the green heart of Cantabria to the peaks
Back to Routes
The pretty town of Potes
Mountain chalet in the Picos de Europa
The beautiful Camaleño valley
Potes - and into the mountains!
A place to rest for a moment
Among the peaks
Santo Toribio de Liébana
Ermita de Santa Catalina
Green hills of Cantabria
Wild horses roam the mountain pastures
Autumn colours
Espinama
Panoramic views above Fuente Dé
At a glance
Picos de Europa 6-night option (5 days walking). Consider extra nights in Espinama or Fuente Dé to make the most of the area. See 'Prices' tab for what's included.
Suggested route pairing: Basque Pyrenees
How much walking?
Full days: 9-20km per day, 4-5½ hrs walking
Using shortening options: 9-16km per day, 2¾-4½ hrs walking
Mountain valleys of wild Cantabria
There was a time when the indomitable jagged tips of the grey Picos mountains heralded a return to safety for weary sailors, signalling that the Spanish mainland (Europa?) was in sight and home nearby. Today, the mountains beckon a different traveller – the walker. Whilst most adventurers flock to the busy western massif, we turn our attention to the eastern foothills of the Picos de Europa National Park, where tranquil green valleys belie the wilderness beyond.
Our route follows a network of little-used farm tracks scattered across the valleys of Polaciones and Liébana, stopping at tiny villages to stay in wayside inns (and more comfortable hotels too), to enjoy a glass of Orujo with the locals and sample the hearty Lebaniego stew. Vultures and eagles soar overhead whilst Cantabrian brown bears and Iberian Wolves find sanctuary in the undisturbed hills away from your path. Continue west through bustling Potes and every step brings you closer to the massive cliffs waiting at Espinama and Fuente Dé. On your final day, scale those cliffs (by cable-car!) to nearly 2000m above sea level and experience a different world of bare rock and alpine pastures. The best views are yet to come on a glorious descent across the wooded hillsides back to your celebratory dinner and the end of your great Cantabrian traverse.
Walked by On Foot staff: Simon and Harriet
Consider pairing this route with the Basque Pyrenees (4½-5 hours by bus and taxi via Bilbao) – for more details click here.
TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to Spain, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency.
Route Highlights
- Historic Potes with its many excellent restaurants
- The monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana
- Traditional cuisine including chickpea stew, Tudanca cheeses and fiery Orujo
- The tart, dry cider of España Verde
- Eagles, vultures and wolves
- The cable car of Fuente Dé and the Refugio di Aliva
This route features the following characteristics and interests: Mountains, Villages and farms, Birdwatching, Drive to route
Things you should know
- About 75% of the route is on quiet gravel tracks (not footpaths).
- The food in La Lastra and Pejanda is simple but authentic.
- The cable-car walk is weather dependent (although lowland valley options will also be provided).
- Travel to/from the route is not straightforward and taxis may be necessary.
- A basic understanding of Spanish (or Google Translate!) is useful, especially before reaching Potes.
We Recommend
Consider upgrading to the Parador at Fuente Dé where a third night would make for a luxurious end to the holiday.
Eating and Drinking
The food on this route is largely simple but wholesome, with traditional mountain cooking designed to fuel long days in the hills. You’ll sample the Cocido Lebaniego (chickpeas, potatoes and cabbage, usually with pork or beef) and Quesada Pasiega (a sort-of-cheesecake). Potes has the best variety of restaurants (you will eat well!) but the end of the route is not to be overlooked: Espinama’s Hostal Remoña specialises in local, seasonal produce, and the chefs at the Parador de Fuente Dé are keen to impress with a more formal menu.
The area is not known for its fine wines, but the local offerings are highly enjoyable, along with artisan beers, ciders and of course, orujo.
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: 9-16km per day, 2¾-4½ hrs walking
The majority of the route is unsigned, however, the navigation is straightforward on the whole. The terrain is generally forgiving underfoot with no rocky/scree areas. Highest point on route: 1930m.
Medium: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 530m (400m-675m) per day.
Easy/Medium: CUSs 435m (300m-550m) per day using shortening options where available, including some taxi transfers (local supplement).
Acrophobia/vertigo warnings: Not applicable.
On Foot Holidays Companion app available for GPS navigation/mapping and all other documentation and advice. Separate GPX files for your own device also available.
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
The best months to walk: May, June, mid-September to early-October
Other possible months: late April, very early July, early September, late October
This walking route features a mixture of sheltered valleys and exposed alpine walking, so the weather challenges change as the route progresses. Early and late season walkers (late-April and mid-to-late October) might have to sacrifice the high cable-car circuit on the final day if the weather proves inclement.
May and June are both good months for walking although mid June and early July can be hot. The route is not offered in late July and August due to the heat. Early September can also be hot, but mid September to early October is an excellent time to go. It is possible to stretch the season into late October, though walkers should be prepared for a higher chance of poor weather and possibly more limited choice of restaurants etc.
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Weather and rainfall chart for Potes
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrive in Pesaguero
Arrive in the quiet hamlet of Pesaguero and settle in to your accommodation. Have a stroll around the village before contemplating your supper at the hotel.
Day 2 - Pesaguero to Potes
An excellent day with varied walking and plenty of views. Leave Pesaguero via the Camino Lebaniego and follow a mix of paths and tracks along the valley floor. The route begins to climb gently through villages, and glimpses of the Picos cliffs appear more frequently the higher you climb. Stay on a good, high track for some quick walking through light woodland, and then another short climb in the afternoon leads into wonderful green mountain pastures with excellent views. The second half of the day is very remote and a gradual descent will lead you into Potes which remains hidden in the valley until the very final approach. (Medium/Hard: 5¼ hrs walking (allow 7 hrs), 20 km (12½ miles), CUSs 575m)
Alternatives: Taxi (supplement) as far as Lomena (Medium: 16½km, CUSs 420m) or Los Cos (Easy/Medium: 11½km, CUSs 300m).
Day 3 - Potes Circuit
A highly enjoyable day which climbs into the hills behind Potes and offers some wonderful views. The day begins with a good track and a fairly gentle climb before breaking out onto an exposed col with the first dramatic views of the day. You’re unlikely to encounter many other people (perhaps a shepherd or two) so you’re free to enjoy the views in peace. Descend on grassy paths through meadows before joining an easy path below the monastery of Santo Toribio to return to town. (Medium: 4 hrs walking (allow 5¼ hrs), 14 km (8¾ miles), CUSs 550m)
Day 4 - Potes to Cosgaya
An interesting day which starts with an easy ascent out of Potes to the Monastery de Santo Toribio (and the end of the Camino Lebaniego). You then have a choice: a pretty meandering path through high woodland with occasional views to dramatic peaks, or a good track that passes through villages on the valley bottom. Both routes join in the afternoon on the old mountain “road” which gradually climbs the valley sides and offers great views to the ever-nearing Picos. (Medium: 4 hrs walking (allow 5¼ hrs), 14½ km (9 miles), CUSs 675m)
Alternative: taxi (supplement) as far as the Monastery Santo Toribio (Medium: 11¾km, CUSs 465m).
Alternative: The main route follows the northern side of the valley and is predominantly on tracks. If you fancy a change of terrain then try the ‘harder’ option which follows sometimes-narrow footpaths through a beautiful green wilderness. There is an element of wayfinding and the terrain is much more varied underfoot. (Medium/Hard: 5 hrs walking (allow 6¾ hrs), 14½ km (9 miles), CUSs 710m)
Option
Those that wish for a more authentic cultural experience might enjoy the Agriturismo Trevino (instead of the Hotel del Oso). The Agriturismo Trevino is an 18th century farmhouse set high on the hillside. You should expect little in the way of creature comforts and Spanish language skills are essential, however, this accommodation offers a remarkable glimpse into a rapidly-disappearing way of life.
Day 5 - Cosgaya to Espinama or Fuente Dé
A day of options! The main route climbs out of Cosgaya to the village of Pembes before turning westward and meandering through woodland all the way to Espinama. Views are occasional but this option should be taken for those that wish for an easier day. If, however, you fancy a challenge then continue north at Pembes and ascend the hillside through alpine meadows and mixed woodland. After a seemingly endless climb, emerge from the trees to spectacular views before bearing west to begin the descent. A little-used woodland path contours through glorious oak woodland, finally moving onto a broader track above Espinama. (Main route: Easy/Medium: 2¾ hrs walking (allow 3¾ hrs), 9 km (5½ miles), CUSs 450m. Harder option: Medium: 3½ hrs walking (allow 4¾ hrs), 11 km (7 miles), CUSs 750m)
Option
For those that choose to upgrade to the Parador at Fuente Dé, the route extends by 3 km through woodland and meadows along the valley bottom.
Day 6 - Espinama or Fuente Dé high mountain circuit
A remarkable day of dramatic views and changing scenery. The route begins with an easy start along the valley bottom to the cable car station at Fuente Dé. The cable car whisks you up the escarpment to 1823m in just four minutes. The route then follows an easy descent through a lunar landscape of bare rock and grey jagged peaks to the Aliva mountain refuge. Stop for lunch-with-a-view before continuing on. The inhospitable surrounds transform as you descend into verdant alpine pastures with the ring of cow-bells echoing all around. Exit the valley onto a small footpath through meadows and lowland forested slopes. (Medium: 4½ hrs walking (allow 6 hrs), 16¼ km (10 miles), CUSs 400m)
Option
Those staying at the Parador at Fuente Dé will start the walk at the cable car station, reducing the distance by 3km.
Departure day
Depart for home, or perhaps stay a day longer to make the most of the extraordinary surrounds.
Travel Information
Travel to and from the route requires careful planning as public transport options are limited. For the start of the walk, the nearest train/bus station is at Torrelavega and a taxi is included in the holiday price between Torrelavega and Pesaguero. At the end of the holiday, the nearest bus station is at Potes and a taxi is included in the holiday price between Espinama/Fuente Dé and Potes. From Potes, take a bus to Torrelavega for train connections. These taxis can be extended/changed as required. See below for more information.
TRAVELLING BY TRAIN
Nearest railway station:
Start: Torrelavega (then pre-booked taxi to start of walk)
Finish: Torrelavega (pre-booked taxi from end of walk to Potes, then bus from Potes to Torrelavega)
Sample journey by rail:
Via Paris and Hendaye: TGV Paris Gare Montparnasse to Hendaye/Irun (~5 hrs). Then train to Burgos (~4 hrs). Then bus Burgos to Torrelavega (~2.5 hrs).
Via Paris and Barcelona: TGV Paris Gare de Lyon to Barcelona (~7 hrs). Train to Torrelavega via Madrid (~8.5 hrs).
Via Madrid: Direct train to Torrelavega (~4-5 hrs).
We suggest thetrainline.com for times, ticket booking and other information.
TRAVELLING BY CAR AND/OR FERRY
An option to be considered for anyone travelling by ferry into Santander. The journey time is about 1.5 hours from the port to the start of the route. On-street parking is available at La Lastra and a taxi to return to your car will be included in your itinerary.
TRAVELLING BY AIR
The best airports with European flights are Santander and Bilbao. Intercontinental flights use Madrid, followed by an internal flight to Santander or Bilbao (or the train from Madrid to Torrelavega).
Land by:
Santander – 16:30 latest
Bilbao – 14:00 latest
Madrid – 12:00 latest. NB there is only one good train connection around 13:40 so a connecting flight to Santander will be likely.
If choosing to arrive by taxi directly from the airport, the latest flight arrival at Santander is ideally around 18:00 so as not to miss dinner.
Return flight earliest:
Santander – 12:00 earliest
Bilbao – 15:30 earliest
Madrid – 18:00 earliest by train, 16:00 via a flight from Santander
If choosing to depart by taxi from Espinama/Fuente De to the airport, the latest flight departure from Santander is ideally not before 11:00.
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.
Getting to the start of the walk
The first hotel is in the village of Pesaguero, and the last in Espinama/Fuente Dé.
Transfer times and methods are suggested for Santander and Bilbao airports below.
SANTANDER AIRPORT:
Outward: Bus to Torrelavega (hourly~, 35 mins), then pre-booked taxi to Pesaguero. Or pre-booked taxi the whole way (supplement).
Return: Pre-booked taxi to Potes (30 mins), then bus to Santander city (07:00/09:15 (weekdays only); 09:30/11:45; 17:30/19:45). Local taxi or shuttle bus to airport.
BILBAO AIRPORT:
Outward: Bus to Torrelavega (2.5 hours, 3.5 hours if via Santander) then pre-booked taxi to Pesaguero.
Return: Pre-booked taxi to Potes (30 mins) then bus to Torrelavega (07:00/08:45 (weekdays only); 09:30/11:15; 17:30/19:15) and another bus to Bilbao (2.5 hours). Or, extend the taxi all the way to Torrelavega (supplement).
Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information. For taxi prices see “Prices”.
Where You'll Stay
The accommodation on this route is generally modest (though always with charm and character and ensuite bathrooms!) becoming more sophisticated as the route progresses. Consider upgrading to the elegant Parador de Fuente Dé (supplement) for your final nights.
Night 1
A gorgeous guesthouse with an outdoor pool, stunning views, generous terrace and lush gardens.
Night 2 & 3
Great little hotel right in the heart of Potes with mountain and city views.
Night 4
Cosgaya – Hotel del Oso (dinner, B&B)
A lovely hotel with a swimming pool overlooking the Liébana Valley, serving local specialities.
Night 5 & 6
Espinama – Hostal Remona (dinner, B&B)
Delightful guesthouse with modern rooms and restaurant specializing in local produce. Dinner included on first night only.
Night 5 & 6 (Upgrade)
Fuente De – Parador Fuente De (B&B)
An impressive Parador in the foothills of the Picos, with plenty of large windows and spectacular mountain views.
Pesaguero – El Hoyal (B&B)
A gorgeous guesthouse with an outdoor pool, stunning views, generous terrace and lush gardens.
Website
Potes – Casa Cayo (B&B)
Great little hotel right in the heart of Potes with mountain and city views.
Website
Potes – Apartments El Nial (room only)
Centrally located apartments by the river with private entrances and excellent amenities. Choose a local cafe for your breakfast.
Website
Cosgaya – Hotel del Oso (dinner, B&B)
A lovely hotel with a swimming pool overlooking the Liébana Valley, serving local specialities.
Website
Cosgaya – Hotel Cosgaya (B&B)
A super hotel with uniquely furnished rooms and stunning mountain views.
Website
Espinama – Hostal Remona (dinner, B&B)
Delightful guesthouse with modern rooms and restaurant specializing in local produce. Dinner included on first night only.
Website
Espinama – Hostal Nevandi (B&B)
A cosy and rural hostel with 10 rooms, a pool and a Lebanese restaurant.
Website
Fuente De – Parador Fuente De (B&B)
An impressive Parador in the foothills of the Picos, with plenty of large windows and spectacular mountain views.
Website
Prices
Total 6 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 1 evening meal, taxi from Torrelavega to first hotel and taxi from last hotel to Potes , luggage transfers between all hotels on walking route; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.
Also included: On Foot Holidays Companion app, providing navigation/mapping and digital version of the Walkers’ Pack as above. Separate GPX files for your own device also available. If choosing to walk with app only (no printed materials): Discount of £40 per pack (based on one pack per room).
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.
Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £150
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £200
Large Party Saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) – discount of at least £40 per person
Maximum party size: 8
Add Ons
Extra nights possible throughout the route: Contact On Foot for ideas and prices
Taxis from/to airports/train stations: Possible (Santander, Bilbao or Torrelavega at the end of the holiday). Contact On Foot Holidays for prices
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: Supplement payable per pack, location dependent.
Arrange locally: Local train/bus/taxi as required
Our local team
Aznar Fernandez de Pinedo
Aznar was born and grew up in Bilbao, where he soon developed his love for nature (he is a keen naturalist), hiking and the rural environment in general. He studied Business and has worked for many years in multinational corporations in the IT sector, living in both Barcelona and Madrid. But in 2014 he decided to change his career to work on what he loves most.
