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Gorges du Tarn
River landscapes of the Cévennes
Back to Routes
Saint-Chély du Tarn
Chemin de Stevenson
On the bridge at Ispagnac
The green Gorges du Tarn
The hermitage at Sainte-Enimie
Tiny Castelbouc
Pretty Le Rozier
Add a visit to Albi
At a glance
Tarn 7-night version (the full walk). Add extra nights in Le Rozier at the end, or move on to historic Albi. See 'Prices' tab for what's included.
Suggested route pairing: Dordogne
How much walking?
Full days: 12-25km per day, 3½-6½ hrs walking
Using shortening options: 6-22½km per day, 1½-5½ hrs walking
Hills and valleys, stone villages, vineyards and bridges
When Robert Louis Stevenson travelled through the Cévennes and the Gorges du Tarn with his donkey Modestine in the autumn of 1878, he remarked “si le jardin d’Eden existe, c’est dans la vallée du Tarn qui descend sur Florac”. It’s a spectacular, wild, dramatic river valley starting on the high plateau of the Cévennes National Park, plunging into narrow gorges (where the route partly traces the water’s edge and partly climbs high above the ribbon of turquoise water) to wind underneath soaring cliffs, where vultures drift lazily on the thermals.
Our bespoke route – designed, as with the Dordogne, by local contact Emily – will take you on a journey through varied landscapes alongside the Tarn as it descends from Mont Lozère into the narrow, dramatic and famed gorges, before widening into the more bucolic countryside at Le Rozier. On the way you’ll be walking past fields and meadows, on pretty woodland paths suffused with the scent of Mediterranean pines, or up on the causse enjoying breathtaking and far-reaching views, exploring to villages only accessible on foot.
Signage is generally good, and with our On Foot Holidays Companion App, you should have no navigational issues (GPS tracks and route notes also available!). Accommodations vary from simple village hotels or converted mills to the sophisticated, but always with good kitchens to sustain you with meals to be complemented by a choice of the local Gaillac wine, harvested from one of France’s oldest viticultural areas.
Walked by On Foot staff: Simon and Debbie
Consider pairing this route with Dordogne (4 hrs transfer by train) – for more details click here.
TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to France, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency.
Route Highlights
- Breathtaking views
- Gaillac wine
- Chance to explore the Gorges of the Tarn the slow way
- Hidden villages of Castelbouc, Hauterives and La Sablière
- Add a visit to Albi – home to the largest brick building in the world, and the Toulouse-Lautrec museum
This route features the following characteristics and interests: Villages and farms, Food, History
Things you should know
- Whilst we prefer little paths, there is an unavoidable and greater-than-usual element of track and very quiet asphalt walking on this route: view it as a way to eat up the kilometres and give you more leisure en route and at your next destination.
- Ensure you’ve worked out your journey to and from the route as it may not be immediately easy.
- Luggage is transferred as always on our routes, but there is a strict limit of 13kg on each bag. Those on longer trips may wish to bring an additional soft bag or two to transfer extra weight into, but let us know on booking or risk these being left behind!
We Recommend
Extra nights in Albi after you've finished walking, to pay homage to Toulouse Lautrec and visit the largest brick cathedral in the world, as well as to wander the city's tiny streets.
Eating and drinking
Few eating out options on this route, so many meals are included at the places you will stay… but don’t think that they’ll be inferior! Hotel restaurants have long been a choice of preference for the French and this region endorses that belief. Try beef from the nearby Aubrac, or trout from the many rivers. Sample seasonal dishes made with pumpkin or local garlic, beans, and truffles, as well as a mouth-watering range of cheeses. Wash these down with richly coloured, spicy Gaillac wine – this is one of France’s oldest wine-producing areas.
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: 6-22½km per day, 1½-5½ hrs walking
Most days are waymarked and on good tracks, with some unavoidable quiet asphalt walking making the going easy underfoot. Highest point on route: 1,425m.
Medium/medium-hard: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 595m (300m-875m) per day.
Easy-Medium: Average CUSs 450m (275m-800m) per day using taxi shortening options (pay locally) when available.
Acrophobia/vertigo warnings: None
On Foot Holidays Companion app available from 2025, for GPS navigation/mapping and all other documentation and advice. Separate GPX files for your own device also available.
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
The best months to walk: April, May, June, September, October
Route unavailable across the summer months of July and August.
Enjoy the Tarn in April, May and June for the spring flowers and in September and October for the golden autumn warmth.
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Temperature and rainfall in Ispagnac
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrival day
Arrive, settle into your accommodation and relax after your journey.
Day 2 - Mas de la Barque to Pont de Montvert
A leg-loosening day taking in the first of many bridges over the Tarn as the river starts its journey from the moorland above your walk. Stride out and enjoy the gentle countryside – firstly through woods and meadows, and then a beautiful riverside section, before descending to a far-reaching view of the landscape and on through a couple of tiny villages. Finally reach your riverside accommodation in pretty Pont de Montvert.
(Easy medium: 3¾ hrs walking (allow 5 hrs), 15 km (9½ miles), CUSs 300m)
Day 3 - Pont de Montvert to Cocurès
You won’t be alone, certainly for the first half of today: the route takes in part of the Chemin de Stevenson, climbing steeply away from Pont de Montvert on a cobbled path up to the Causse. Having then descended through woodland, there is a long haul up a track, also in the woods, to Signal du Bougès, one of the real high points, and then a glorious walk on pine-needle-strewn paths to a col which marks the junction of the route’s two landscapes. Open woodland tracks, and a secret way in to the next riverside village, deliver you to Cocurès.
(Hard: 6½ hrs walking (allow 8¾ hrs), 25 km (15½ miles), CUSs 875m)
Alternative: lift to the Col de Sapet (missing the best walking, but also the steepest sections) – supplement of €50. Saves 4 hrs walking, 13km, 650m CUSs.
Day 4 - Cocurès to Ispagnac
We recommend a leisurely start for this relatively short day of relaxed route-finding on tracks in and mostly out of woodland, and with breath-taking views at the high point. Arriving early in Ispagnac, you’ll have time to explore its ancient streets and perhaps take in an afternoon swim in your host’s pool (in season).
(Medium: 3¾ hrs walking (allow 5 hrs), 14 km (8½ miles), CUSs 560m)
Day 5 - Ispagnac to St-Chély
At last you reach the gorges proper! After wandering through one of the mineral water capitals of France (the tiny village of Quézac), you’re on a GR all day. There is an element of asphalt walking, but it’s all very quiet, and to be viewed as a way of eating up the miles. It’s also the only way to access the extraordinary hamlet of Castelbouc, but leave time to stop at the honeypot ‘plus beau village’ of Ste Enimie to fortify yourself for the climb up above, and the wind down to the much quieter and prettier village of St Chély, nestling in the gorge cliffs.
(Medium: 4¾ hrs walking (allow 6¼ hrs), 22 km (14 miles), CUSs 530m)
Alternative: lift to Montbrun (saves 7km of mostly flat walking) or to Ste Enimie (saves 16km and 250m CUSs), supplement payable locally.
Day 6 - St-Chély to Les Vignes
Classic gorge walking on idyllic woodland paths, sometimes close to the water, sometimes high above, to the centre des bateliers of La Malène, and the chance of a refreshing drink or even lunch. Continue walking after your exploration, eventually arriving at a high and glorious balcony path in the last quarter of the day, to the picturesque village of Les Vignes and, yes, more beautifully-sited, welcoming riverside accommodations. Adventurous types may like to consider travelling by boat from La Malène, to be dropped off half-way along its journey, though the short connection back to the walking route (as yet untried by On Foot) promises to be a short but very steep climb, and should not be attempted in wet weather.
(Hard: 5½ hrs walking (allow 7¼ hrs), 23 km (14 miles), CUSs 800m)
Day 7 - Les Vignes to Le Rozier
Your final day, and a long morning’s amble alongside the now less-dramatic gorge. Wind in and out of woodland, up and down through a couple of picturesque remote settlements, and enjoy some longer views of the river before arriving at journey’s end where the river finally enters the plain at Le Rozier.
(Medium: 3½ hrs walking (allow 4¾ hrs), 14 km (9 miles), CUSs 300m)
Departure from Le Rozier
Leave for home (perhaps via a night or two in Albi?) – or have another night to relax and enjoy the hotel’s amenities if you’re staying at La Muse.
Travel Information
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Nearest railway station:
Start: Villefort
Finish: Millau bus station – nearest railway station is then Albi, depending on onward travel
Sample journey by rail:
Via Paris to Villefort: Gare de Lyon ~5 hrs (change Nimes & Alès)
Albi to Paris: direct to Paris Montparnasse ~5½ hrs
We suggest thetrainline.com for times, ticket booking and other information.
ARRIVING BY CAR
Not recommended.
ARRIVING BY AIR
Four airports serve the route fairly well – Nimes is the nearest, but quite seasonal; Montpellier and Toulouse may have the best choice of flights; Beziers is another possibility. (Rodez is very seasonal, and will need a taxi transfer all the way – it’s not a cheap option.) Alternatively, fly into one of the Paris airports and take the train as far as Villefort, where our (included) taxi will pick you up. Intercontinental journeys use Paris.
Land by: Toulouse 12 noon; Beziers 14:00; Montpellier 15:00; Nimes 16:00; Rodez no limit as taxi needed all the way.
Return flight earliest (for public transport options): Toulouse 12 noon (with very early taxi to Millau); Beziers taxi (2 hour journey) advised all the way; Montpellier 12 noon; Nimes 14:00; Rodez no limit as taxi needed all the way.
No limit if opting to take a taxi all the way.
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.
See “Getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information.
Getting to the start of the walk
The first hotel is in Villefort, and the last in Le Rozier. Transfer times and methods are suggested for train arrivals and flights below.
Train station transfers:
Outward: taxi for the short journey from Villefort station to first hotel.
Return: taxi Le Rozier to Millau bus station (included). Supplement for destinations other than Millau.
TOULOUSE BLAGNAC AIRPORT
Outward: shuttle bus to main station, train to Villefort via Nimes (sometimes change at Alès). Allow 6 hours.
Return: pre-booked taxi (included) to Millau bus station (30 mins), bus to Albi (2½ hours), train to Toulouse (1 hour), shuttle bus to airport. Allow 5 hours.
BEZIERS AIRPORT
Outward: shuttle bus to Beziers station (30 mins, timed to meet flights), train to Villefort (via changes in Nimes and Alès). Allow 5 hours.
Return: pre-booked taxi (supplement) advised all the way to avoid a sequence of bus and train journeys. Allow 2 hours.
MONTPELLIER AIRPORT
Outward: shuttle bus to city, tram to main station, train to Villefort (via changes in Nimes and Alès). Allow 4-4½ hours.
Return: pre-booked taxi (included) to Millau bus station; bus to Montpellier (1½-2 hours); tram and bus to airport (1½ hours). Allow 4 hours.
NIMES AIRPORT
Outward: shuttle bus to Nimes station, train on from there (sometimes change at Alès for bus service on). Allow 2½-3 hours.
Return: pre-booked taxi (included) to Millau bus station (30 mins), bus to Montpellier (1½-2 hours), tram to main station and train to Nimes (1 hour), shuttle bus to airport. Allow 4 hours.
Where You'll Stay
The Gorges of the Tarn are a popular holiday destination, but more often for touring. Therefore some B&Bs are quite simple, such as those in Villefort and Les Vignes, and others are more sophisticated, such as those in Cocurès and Le Rozier. Do consider an upgrade in Le Rozier, perhaps.
If you have the time, why not add a night or two in beautiful and historic red brick Albi, with the Tarn flowing below the Cathedral. We have a good choice of accommodation from the simple to the sophisticated and boutique – see below.
All accommodations have ensuite bathrooms and WiFi.
Night 3
Cocurès – La Lozerette (dinner, B&B)
Popular hotel on edge of old village, with excellent dining room.
Night 4
Ispagnac – Le Vallon (dinner, B&B)
Cheerily run hotel in historic village. Plain rooms, but excellent and generous meals.
Night 5
St-Chély du Tarn – Auberge de la Cascade (dinner, B&B)
Excellent restaurant with rooms across the tiny village. Pool in season.
Night 6
Les Vignes – Le Parisien (dinner, B&B)
Small riverside hotel with lovely terrace and excellent restaurant.
Night 7 (Upgrade)
Le Rozier – Hôtel de la Muse (B&B)
Comfortable, classy hotel by river. Pool in season.
Villefort – Mas de l’Affenadou (dinner, B&B)
Rebuilt from a 16th century barn, charmingly rustic.
Website
Cocurès – La Lozerette (dinner, B&B)
Popular hotel on edge of old village, with excellent dining room.
Website
Ispagnac – Le Vallon (dinner, B&B)
Cheerily run hotel in historic village. Plain rooms, but excellent and generous meals.
Website
St-Chély du Tarn – Auberge de la Cascade (dinner, B&B)
Excellent restaurant with rooms across the tiny village. Pool in season.
Website
Les Vignes – Le Parisien (dinner, B&B)
Small riverside hotel with lovely terrace and excellent restaurant.
Website
Les Vignes – Moulin de Parayre (dinner, B&B)
Simple renovated accommodation by river - formerly a fulling mill.
Website
Le Rozier – La Grange Templière (dinner (first night), B&B), two night stays only
Well restored stone building at top of medieval village.
Website
ALBI
For those staying a night or two after the walk in Albi, we offer a range of accommodation from simple to sophisticated.
Hôtel Alchimy is located in elegant buildings on a quiet street, renovated in Art Deco style, with restaurant and cocktail bar:
For something quite special, try La Maison du Prévôt – just two gorgeous bedrooms in a beautifully designed house overlooking a cloister garden, tucked out of sight in the heart of the town:
Hôtel Les Pasteliers is a small, colourful hotel with great charm, on the edge of the city:
Prices
Total 7 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 4 picnics and 5 evening meals, luggage transfers between all hotels on walking route (note strict limit of 13kg per bag * see below); transfer from Villefort station to first accommodation and taxi from Le Rozier to Millau bus station; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.
Also included: On Foot Holidays Companion app (from 2025), providing navigation/mapping and digital version of the Walkers’ Pack as above. Separate GPX files for your own device also available. If choosing to walk with app only (no printed materials): Discount of £40 per pack (based on one pack per room) from 2025.
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.
Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £260
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £145
Maximum party size: 8 (assuming sharing double beds)
*Those on longer holidays/journeys may wish to bring an additional soft bag or two to transfer extra weight into, but let us know when first booking (as we will need to build the costs in to your holiday price) or risk additional/heavier bags being left behind at a previous accommodation!
Add Ons
Extra nights possible throughout the route: Contact On Foot for ideas and prices
Pre-booked taxis: Contact On Foot for prices.
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: £20-£60 (per pack, location dependent)
Our local team
Emily Stokely
Rural France has been part of Emily’s life since she was a little girl holidaying here with her parents. After meeting Jeremy, and as keen outdoors enthusiasts, they spent many subsequent holidays exploring on foot and by bicycle. In 2005 they decided to move to France with their young family in order to build a house, and now run a small business managing holiday houses.
