Office hours: Mon - Fri 09:00 - 17:30; Sat 09:30 - 13:00
Office hours: Mon - Fri 09:00 - 17:30; Sat 09:30 - 13:00
Office hours: East Coast USA: Mon - Fri 09:00 - 17:30 (04:00 - 12:30 local time); Sat 09:30 - 13:00 (04:30 - 08:00)
West Coast USA: Mon - Fri 09:00 -17:30 (01:00 - 09:30 local time); Sat 09:30 - 13:00 (01:30 - 05:00)
Office hours: Ottawa: Mon - Fri 09:00 - 17:30 (04:00 - 12:30 local time); Sat 09:30 - 13:00 (04:30 - 08:00)
Vancouver: Mon - Fri 09:00 - 17:30 (01:00 - 09:30 local time); Sat 09:30 - 13:00 (01:30 - 05:00)
Office hours: Canberra: Mon - Fri 09:00 - 17:30 (20:00 - 04:30 local time); Sat 09:30 - 13:00 (20:30 - 24:00)
Office hours: Mon - Fri 09:00 - 17:30 (22:00 - 06:30 local time); Sat 09:30 - 13:00 (22:30 - 02:00)
Office hours: Mon - Fri 09:00 - 17:30 (check internet for local time equivalent); Sat 09:30 - 13:00
Catalonia: The Southern Hills – 6 nights
Mountain pathways of forgotten Catalonia
Back to Routes
Setting out from Guiamets beside the reservoir
Pretty riverside Miravet
Ermita de Sant Gregori
On the way to Miravet
Fontcalda warm springs
The 'wine cathedral' at El Pinell de Brai
The vintage ferry at Miravet
View from Horta de Sant Joan
Watch out for colourful bee-eaters along the river banks
The old streets of Horta de Sant Joan
Layer upon layer of vistas
At a glance
Catalonia: the Southern Hills 6-night option (5 days walking). Add extra nights in Miravet and Horta de Sant Joan to make the most of the area. See 'Prices' tab for what's included.
Suggested route pairing: Catalonia: El Priorat or Marina Alta
How much walking?
Full days: 10-19 km per day, 4-6½ hrs walking
Using shortening options: 9½-17 km per day, 3- 6½ hrs walking
Mountain pathways of Southern Catalonia
We invite you to leave behind the sun-swept beaches of the Costa Brava and tourist throngs of Barcelona and instead turn your face to the south, to the meandering riverside paths and high mountain ridges of a Catalonia that retains its charm in the modern world.
Your journey begins in riverside Miravet with its Templar castle and Arabic architecture. You’re unlikely to encounter other walkers as you take in views of wide-open plains bordered by jagged green hills. Arrive in the medieval town of Horta de Sant Joan, a significant influence on Picasso’s work. Set your gaze gradually higher as the looming purple silhouettes in the distance draw ever closer – you are nearing the Els Ports mountains. You discover them in earnest on the final two days of walking when you triumphantly summit the peaks to be rewarded with astonishing views over wild valleys and rippling mountains as far as the horizon. Descend to atmospheric Xerta for your much deserved boutique hotel and well-earned dinner.
Walked by On Foot staff: Harriet and Viktoriia
Consider pairing this route with the Catalonia: El Priorat route. The two routes can be combined into a seamless back-to-back linear route.
REVIEWS: For independent walker reviews submitted to the Association of Independent Tour Operators visit Aito.com.
TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to Spain, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency.
Walked by On Foot staff: Harriet and Viktoriia
Consider pairing this route with the Catalonia: El Priorat route. The two routes can be combined into a seamless back-to-back linear adventure (ending/starting in Falset), or with a short taxi or train transfer if walking a shorter version of the second route. Alternatively, head south to Valencia and connect with our Marina Alta route (3-3.5 hours by train). For more details click here.
TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to Spain, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency.
Route Highlights
- Priorat wineland and wine-tasting
- Thermal springs at Fontcalda Sanctuary
- Miravet and its Templar castle and river birdlife
- Views from the Covento de Sant Salvador
- The mighty Els Ports mountains and the Roques de Benet
- Ibex, vultures, eagles and a myriad of birdlife on the Ebro
- The remarkably preserved hilltop town of Horta de Sant Joan and its Picasso museum
This route features the following characteristics and interests: Mountains, Remote, Villages and farms, Birdwatching, History, Wine
Things you should know
- This is a remote part of Catalonia – you are unlikely to encounter other people whilst walking and be prepared for the towns to be quiet!
- English is not widely spoken. Spanish is good but a willingness to attempt Catalan is better.
- Try and follow the recommended start dates to ensure the best dining opportunities. See ‘When to Go’.
- You should be able to commit to the full day’s walking as shortening options are not readily available on this route.
We Recommend
An extra night in Miravet is recommended to fully enjoy the delights of the Ebro river - bring your binoculars! Also consider staying an additional night or two in the nearby Parador Tortosa (short transfer) with its Arab, Christian and Jewish heritage.
Eating and Drinking
The culinary experiences on this route are varied with a wide range between simple meals at village bars to gourmet dining in Xerta, with an opportunity to upgrade to eating in the hotel’s Michelin starred restaurant. Following the recommended start dates should ensure the best dining available and this might include a wine-tasting experience in Guiamets (optional, supplement) and sampling the warm hospitality of your host’s cooking in Mas Brasforte.
Most diets can be catered for but advance notice is required for gluten-free diets and vegan travellers will struggle.
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: 9½-17 km per day, 3- 6½ hrs walking
The majority of the route is unsigned but navigation is not especially challenging. The terrain is generally forgiving underfoot becoming increasingly rocky towards the final two days. A very short section of scree descent on penultimate day (avoidable). Highest point on route: 935m.
Medium/Medium-hard: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 590m (325m-775m) per day.
Medium: CUSs 590m (325m-775m) per day using shortening options where available, including some taxi transfers (local supplement).
IMPORTANT: Although the overall walk grading is ‘Medium’ please be aware that the final two days are definitely Medium-Hard and these cannot be shortened or avoided. See itinerary for details.
Acrophobia/vertigo warnings: None
On Foot Holidays Companion app available for GPS navigation/mapping and all other documentation and advice. Separate GPX files for your own device also available.
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
Best walked in spring and autumn when the weather should be perfect for walking. The majority of the route is exposed so the route is not possible to walk in the summer due to the high temperatures. Walkers in very early/late season should be prepared for a few shallow river crossings – nothing a pair of sandals can’t overcome!
The best months to walk: May, early June, mid-September to October
Other possible months: April, late June, late October to mid-November
The best days to start: The 6 night option is best started on a Sunday or Monday to ensure the best dining options are available. It is also possible to start the walk on Thursday, Friday, Saturday (dinner at simple village bars) and Tuesday (staying in Tortosa instead of Xerta). Please contact us for more advice.
FESTIVALS AND HOLIDAYS TO AVOID (limited hotel availability):
Good Friday: Friday 26 March 2027
Easter Monday: Monday 29 March 2027
Labour Day: 1 May (annual)
St John’s Day: Thursday 24 June 2027
National Day of Catalonia: 11 September (annual)
National Day of Spain: 12 October (annual)
All Saint’s Day: 1 November (annual)
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Rainfall and temperature chart for Tivissa
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrive in Miravet
Arrive in the beautiful riverside town of Miravet. Have a wander around to explore the church and castle before contemplating your supper.
Day 2 - Miravet to Mas Brasforte
A long day if done in its entirety. Start with a climb up to the church and watch the birds flitting in and around the river. You then leave Miravet via a riverside path before starting your big climb of the day. A good track leads you up into untouched forested valleys with not a soul in sight. Keep climbing and you eventually join a high ridge walk with phenomenal views down the Ebro river valley and back to Miravet. When it’s time to come down, a gentle descent on a wooded path leads eventually to the interesting town of El Pinell de Brai. Stop at the Cooperativa for a wine tasting and perhaps a bite to eat before continuing on to your wonderfully isolated off-grid B&B. (Medium/Hard: 6½ hrs walking (allow 8¾ hrs), 18½ km (11½ miles), CUSs 600m)
Alternative: walk as far as El Pinell de Brai from where a lift with your hosts might be possible – not guaranteed. (Medium: 5 hrs walking (allow 6¾ hrs), 12¼ km (7½ miles), CUSs 575m)
Day 3 - Mas Brasforte to Prat de Comte
A short day but one with plenty to offer. Begin with an easy stroll along a via verde – disused railway line – but as the mountains of the Zafán valley rear up on all sides you will have plenty to marvel at as you walk. As the gorge deepens you reach the El Canaletes river and its beautiful thermal springs at Fontcalda sanctuary. It’s well worth the short detour to dip your toes into the water and test the healing properties! Once re-energised, follow a gentle zig-zagging path which climbs the mountain above and eventually reaches a remarkable viewpoint at the Coll de Fontcalda. The hard work done, you can enjoy the easy path down through the valley towards Prat de Comte and a well-earned dinner. (Easy/Medium: 3 hrs walking (allow 2¾ hrs), 9¼ km (6 miles), CUSs 325m)
Alternatives: no shortening options available
Day 4 - Prat de Comte to Horta de Sant Joan
Another short day but the reprieve offers a chance to gather your energies ahead of the final two days! Leave Prat de Comte via a series of paths and tracks that weave around the valley bottom. Groves of olives and almonds are scattered along the hillsides and the Els Ports mountains rear up in the near(ing!) distance. Take particular note of the looming conical mound of Santa Barbara which will be your test of the day! A sheltered footpath winds up the slopes of the mountain before arriving at the beautiful Convento de Sant Salvador. Likely closed, you can still admire the views and wander around the grounds before an easy track leads you to the wonderfully preserved hilltop town of Horta de Sant Joan. (Medium: 4 hrs walking (allow 5¼ hrs), 13½ km (8½ miles), CUSs 500m).
Alternatives: no shortening options available
Day 5 - Horta de Sant Joan to Paüls
A triumph of a day! Start gently on quiet paths that leave the town, and then climb up a small ravine where cascading water settles into turquoise fairy pools. Continue on towards the shadow of Roques de Benet but have no fear – your conquest lies to the east. A gently ascending path leads high up into a dramatic gorge of limestone cliffs and towering peaks. As you proceed, the Els Ports mountains seem to converge on all sides until a glance behind shows row-upon-row of peaks as far as you can see. A little higher to Coll de la Gilaberta and marvel at the distant horizon, whilst spotting ibex picking their way along the hillsides. A rocky descent follows but eases out as you approach Paüls where much awaited rest lies in store. (Medium/Hard: 6½ hrs walking (allow 8¾ hrs), 16¼ km (10 miles), CUSs 775m)
Alternatives: no shortening options available
Day 6 - Paüls to Xerta
A fitting conclusion to your great traverse through Southern Catalonia. A mighty climb follows your departure from Paüls on a secluded forested path all the way to the top of the mountain. There are plenty of places to stop and admire the view behind, but the reward at the top is certainly worth the effort – panoramic views of the now familiar Els Ports and your first glimpse of Xerta nestled in the valley below. An easy ridge walk gives way to a rocky descent to the charming town of Xerta and journey’s end. (Medium/Hard: 6¼ hrs walking (allow 8¼ hrs), 15½ km (9½ miles), CUSs 750m)
Alternatives: no shortening options available
Departure day
A night or two more to relax and explore the Ebro river delta seems a must, or perhaps extend your stay with a few days in Barcelona?
Travel Information
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Nearest railway station:
Start: Mora La Nova
Finish: Tortosa
Sample journey by rail:
Via Madrid: High speed train to Lleida, then local train to Mora La Nova ~4 hrs
Tortosa: Bus or taxi from Xerta to Tortosa, then train to Barcelona, and high speed train to Madrid ~5 hrs
We suggest thetrainline.com for times, ticket booking and other information.
DRIVING TO THIS ROUTE is not recommended as the subsequent transfers are very awkward!
ARRIVING BY AIR
The best airports are Barcelona and Reus. Intercontinental flights use Barcelona and Madrid.
Land by: Reus 15:00; Barcelona 13:00 for train connections to Mora La Nova (4-5hrs).
Return flight earliest: Barcelona 14:00 for train connection from Tortosa; Reus 12:30 for train connection from Tortosa.
Land by/earliest return flight times not applicable if using pre-booked taxi directly from or back to either airport.
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.
See “getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information.
Getting to the start of the walk
Transfer times and methods are suggested for train arrivals and Reus and Barcelona airports below.
Coming by train and transfers to/from stations:
Outward: Mora La Nova – pre-booked taxi to hotel (included).
Return: Bus from Xerta to Barcelona city or airport, or bus/taxi to Tortosa and train from there.
REUS AIRPORT:
Outward: bus to Reus station hourly ~25 mins, then 3 afternoon trains a day to Mora La Nova ~55 mins OR pre-booked taxi from airport to hotel in Miravet ~1 hr 15 mins.
Return: Local taxi to Tortosa then shuttle bus to Reus, then bus (or local taxi) to the airport.
BARCELONA AIRPORT:
Outward: Train every half-hour to Barcelona Sants ~22 mins, then regional train direct to Mora La Nova ~2.5 hrs+ (~5-5.5 hrs total including waiting for infrequent trains) OR pre-booked taxi from airport direct to Miravet hotel ~2 hrs.
Return: Shuttle bus from Xerta to airport ~3-3.5 hrs
OR local taxi to Tortosa station then train to Barcelona ~2.5-3 hrs
OR pre booked taxi direct from final hotel to Barcelona airport ~2 hrs.
For pre-bookable taxi costs, please contact us.
Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack and On Foot Holidays Companion app. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information.
Where You'll Stay
The accommodation on this route is generally modest (though always with charm and character and ensuite bathrooms!). You can expect authentic Spanish hospitality mixed in with an off-grid homestay, a simple restaurant-with-rooms and a sumptuous finish in a 5* boutique hotel. There is also the option of staying in a historic Parador at Tortosa, but note that our standard offering in Xerta should not be overlooked in favour of this!
Choose your start date carefully to ensure the best dining options are available – see ‘When to Go’.
Night 1
Miravet – Palau de Miravet (B&B)
Restored former palace and art centre for Joaquim Mir (minimum two night stay).
Night 2
A re-formed Masia, off grid and surrounded by nature. A simple, but unique experience and highly recommended. Pool in season.
Night 3
Prat de Comte – Ca l’Angels (dinner, B&B)
Simple village eatery with recently refurbished rooms and excellent kitchen. No twin rooms.
Night 5
Paüls – Cal Vientos (dinner, B&B)
Beautifully decorated, rustic house in the heart of the village. Breakfast and dinner taken in nearby hostel.
Night 6
Xerta – Villa Retiro (dinner, B&B)
5-star boutique hotel with lovely grounds - what an end to the holiday! Dinner included (room and dinner upgrade options available).
Miravet – Palau de Miravet (B&B)
Restored former palace and art centre for Joaquim Mir (minimum two night stay).
Website
Miravet – Els Canterers (B&B)
Traditional hotel with simple rooms and excellent communal areas including sun terrace and garden.
Website
Mas Brasforte (dinner, B&B)
A re-formed Masia, off grid and surrounded by nature. A simple, but unique experience and highly recommended. Pool in season.
Prat de Comte – Ca l’Angels (dinner, B&B)
Simple village eatery with recently refurbished rooms and excellent kitchen. No twin rooms.
Website
Paüls – Cal Vientos (dinner, B&B)
Beautifully decorated, rustic house in the heart of the village. Breakfast and dinner taken in nearby hostel.
Website
Xerta – Villa Retiro (dinner, B&B)
5-star boutique hotel with lovely grounds - what an end to the holiday! Dinner included (room and dinner upgrade options available).
Website
Tortosa – Parador de Tortosa (B&B)
Situated next to Suda Castle, overlooking the city from high above. Requires 20-minute taxi transfer from Xerta.
Website
Prices
Price includes: 6 nights in double/twin room, 6 breakfasts, 4 picnics and 4 evening meals; luggage transfers between all hotels on walking route; full Walkers’ Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support; local tourist taxes unless otherwise specified below.
Also included: On Foot Holidays Companion app, providing navigation/mapping and digital version of the Walkers’ Pack as above. Separate GPX files for your own device also available. If choosing to walk with app only (no printed materials): discount of £40 per pack (based on one pack per room).
Other charges:
Tourist tax in Horta de Sant Joan – ~€1.93 per person per day, pay locally
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: supplement payable per pack, location dependent
And any applicable supplements listed below:
Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £265
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £255
Large Party Saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) – discount of at least £60 per person
Maximum party size: 6
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.
Add Ons
Taxi to start of the route from Barcelona airport, Reus airport or Reus train station: Contact On Foot Holidays for prices.
Taxi to Barcelona/Barcelona airport/Reus airport direct: Contact On Foot Holidays for prices.
Wine tasting and vineyard/winery tours: Possible at Cellar Cal Besso, Guiamets. Options to include dinner, contact On Foot Holidays for prices.
Michelin starred dining experience at Villa Retiro, Xerta: Contact On Foot Holidays for options and prices.
Massages and Spa access: 25 minutes for €44 per person and 50 minutes for €88 per person (book in advance, pay locally)
One hour of private spa access: €22 per person (book in advance, pay locally)
Our local team
Joanna Thomas
Joanna Thomas has lived and worked in Catalonia for many years, as architect, guide, multilinguist and mother of two. A keen walker, she now lives in the mountains, on our Catalonia: El Priorat route.
