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Northern Provence
Côtes du Rhone and the foothills of Mont Ventoux
Back to Routes
The jagged peaks of the Dentelles
The pretty town of Gigondas
Autumn vines
Hilltop Le Barroux
Rocher de Rocalinaud - shaped by the wind
Venasque
Lots of excellent wines to sample!
Ever-present Mont Ventoux
Walking in the Dentelles
Travellers Blog
It’s back! Book our improved Northern Provence route
Wednesday 11th December | Posted by On Foot Staff
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At a glance
6-night version (5 walking days). The full route including scenic circuits on first and last walking days. We recommend a night or two in Avignon at the start or finish. See 'Prices' tab for what's included.
Suggested route pairing: Alpes Maritimes
How much walking?
Full days: 12-21km per day, 3¾-6 hrs walking
Using shortening options: 8-17km per day, 1½-5 hrs walking
Iconic wine, gourmet food - and some great walking too!
To the east of Avignon and its nursery rhyme bridge is an area of extraordinary geological features. At the centre lies ‘le Mont Ventoux’ (the windy mountain), beloved – or perhaps not – of Tour de France cyclists. The view of its lonely summit is a constant theme to our walking, although we opt for its greener foothills in this less-visited area of Provence.
The walk starts in a village perched atop a cliff: medieval Venasque, climbing high for views to the peaks of the ‘Dentelles de Montmirail’ (lace points) where you will walk later in the week. From Venasque you’ll walk to Mazan, tiny Le Barroux, and finally to a top restaurant with comfortable rooms just outside of Vacqueyras for two nights, your base for an exploration of the Dentelles. And of course as this is France, the food and wine are most definitely not of secondary importance. Three of the four hotels boast a good kitchen delivering meals of greater or lesser complexity and opportunities for tasting not only the well-known regional wines but also Vacqueyras whites and a variety of ‘marcs’. Why not add a night or two in historic Avignon for the Palais des Papes, the bridge and also the fascinating side streets and museums?
Walked by On Foot staff: Simon, Debbie and Patrick
Consider pairing this route with Alpes Maritimes (7 hrs by train) – for more details click here.
REVIEWS: For independent walker reviews submitted to the Association of Independent Tour Operators visit Aito.com.
TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to France, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency.
Route Highlights
- Avignon – the bridge and the Palais des Papes (add-on)
- Wine – from gutsy Gigondas to sweet Beaumes de Venise
- Gourmet food
- Walking in the Dentelles, in the foothills of Provence’s highest peak, Mont Ventoux
This route features the following characteristics and interests: Villages and farms, Drive to route, Food, Wine
We Recommend
A day or two in historic Avignon (where the popes resided during the fourteenth century, and for a period even had a pope in opposition to the one in Rome!). It is just a short train ride from Avignon to Arles, where you can visit the Roman remains and seek out the locations of some of Vincent van Gogh's best-known paintings. The wetlands of the Camargue are just beyond Arles.
Eating and Drinking
Huw at Les Geraniums (Le Barroux) recommends “2 plats très populaires – Ballotin de volaille farci aux champignons, sauce crème – Vin : Fondreche Rouge, et – La Souris d’Agneau Vigneronne – Vin Gigondas rouge”.
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: 8-17km per day, 1½-5 hrs walking
Paths are reasonably marked, and often you will be on GRs (Grandes Randonnées) either national or of the area, though careful attention to route directions still required. Steep uphill on Venasque Circuit, some scrambling on the day to Vacqueyras, also on the Dentelles circuit. Highest point on route: 750m.
Medium-hard: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 550m per day (375m – 700m).
Medium: CUSs 400m (275m-400m) using easier/shortening options where available.
Acrophobia/vertigo warnings: Potential issues on the final day in the Dentelles, but avoidable by missing that section.
On Foot Holidays Companion app available from 2025, for GPS navigation/mapping and all other documentation and advice. Separate GPX files for your own device also available.
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
The best months to walk: May, June, September, October
Other possible months: late April
This area of the Vaucluse is at its best in late spring and early autumn – try walking at the time of the ‘vendange’, the grape harvest in September, when the vineyards will be full of activity. We don’t offer this route in July as the Avignon Festival makes accommodation harder to come by then (and more expensive), and the weather is in any case probably too hot for walking in high summer.
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Temperature and rainfall chart for Gigondas
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrive in Venasque
Arrive Venasque, settle in and take a moment to explore this pretty hilltop village before your supper-with-a-view in one of the village restaurants.
Day 2 - Venasque circular walk
Today’s lung-expanding walk follows a variety of national and local footpath signs. There are some steep climbs – but the views merit the effort, taking you up to and under the Rocher des Trois Luisants. After an exposed walk along the top of the ridge, there is an initially gentle descent through some forest and a steeper, stonier descent to the east of Mont Serein to the valley bottom. Your climb back up to Venasque has fine afternoon views over to Mont Ventoux. (Medium-hard: 6½hrs walking (allow 8¾hrs), 17km (11miles), CUS 600m) OR medium: shorter circuit of 5¾ hrs walking (allow 7¾ hrs), 16 km (10 miles), CUSs 525m, easier descent). Alternatives – visit the village’s tourist information centre (closed Monday, and Sunday morning) and try one of their suggested local walks, or just relax.
Day 3 - Venasque to Mazan
A gentle day’s walk, along paths and tracks, and some asphalt … and no great peaks, you may be relieved to learn. Following your descent from Venasque, the path winds through a narrow gorge before opening out to take you eventually through Malemort du Comtat, in whose centre are some impressive doors and doorways, clustered around the restored 12th century church. Then continue on to the fortified village of Mazan by way of an historic track. (Easy-medium: 4½ hrs walking (allow 6 hrs), 14 km (9 miles), CUSs 375m)
Day 4 - Mazan to Le Barroux
A bucolic morning past olive and cherry tree groves en route to the hilltop village of Crillon le Brave and a picnic lunch stop in its shadow … or a well-earned croque monsieur after a climb up to a bar at its top. The afternoon’s walk is a minor switchback, through a sea of vineyards (with tantalising glimpses of your next night’s stop) and a wooded section, passing the Lac du Paty before another swiftly steep climb up into Le Barroux’s narrow streets below its 12th century castle. (Medium-hard: 6hrs walking (allow 8hrs), 21km (13miles), CUSs 700m). Alternative – lift with the luggage the whole way.
Day 5 - Le Barroux to Vacqueyras
Head west out of Le Barroux, with some fine views back, for a varied walk on to Beaumes de Venise. Then enjoy a peaceful conservation trail out of the town before a steep, scrambly-in-places climb up to today’s high point, passing an historic chapel with medieval garden, and a former forge, and finally an easy onward walk to your accommodation nestling at the foot of the Dentelles. (Medium-hard (by virtue of a difficult climb): 3¾hrs walking (allow 5hrs), 14km (9miles), CUSs 450m)
Alternative: stop in Beaumes de Venise for a degustation and have a taxi on (supplement).
Day 6 - Circular hike through the Dentelles de Montmirail
At last a chance to walk in amongst the Dentelles through hidden valleys, scrambling over and around the rocks at the base of the most impressive jagged peaks themselves … care is needed today (though no special equipment), but it is an exhilarating experience and provides magnificent views and photo opportunities. The return takes you back via Gigondas, and the opportunity to meander down through this pretty village before stopping awhile for a celebratory dégustation should you so wish, in one of the restaurants or caves.(Medium-hard: 4½ hrs walking (allow 6 hrs), 12 km (7½ miles), CUSs 600m). Alternative – walk up into the Dentelles and back again (devise your own route using our map), or stay at the hotel and relax!
Departure day
Depart for home, or transfer to Avignon for a night or nights in our hotels there and some sightseeing.
Travel Information
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Nearest railway station at start and end: Carpentras
Sample journey by rail:
Via Paris: TGV direct to Avignon, then local train to Carpentras ~5 hrs
Via Paris Charles de Gaulle airport: TGV direct to Avignon, then local train to Carpentras ~4 hrs
Carpentras to Paris: local train to Avignon then TGV direct to Paris ~5 hrs
Carpentras to Paris Charles de Gaulle airport: local train to Avignon, TGV direct to Charles de Gaulle airport ~4 hrs
We suggest thetrainline.com for times, ticket booking and other information.
ARRIVING BY CAR
Leave your car in Vacqueyras. Taxi back to first night (supplement).
ARRIVING BY AIR (but see above about TGV access)
The best local airport is Marseille. There are also flights to Nimes, Beziers and Montpellier, all of which have train connections to Avignon and Carpentras. Intercontinental flights use Marseille and Paris.
Land by: 14:00 (Marseille), 15:00 (Nimes, Beziers, Montpellier) for public transport connections + final taxi.
Return flight earliest (if returning directly from Vacqueyras): generally 13:00 (Marseille, Nimes, Beziers, Montpellier), but the Beziers shuttle bus to the airport is scheduled around specific departures, so earliest departure time can be, well… earlier!
No limit if leaving from Avignon town.
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner
Getting to the start of the walk
The first hotel is in Venasque and the last in Vacqueyras, although you may also wish to spend a night or two in Avignon at the start or end of your walk. Transfer times (travel time only, not allowing for waiting for connections) and methods are suggested for Avignon TGV train station and for Montpellier, Marseille, Beziers and Nimes airports below. Taxis are included at the start from Carpentras train or bus station (adjacent) to Venasque, and back from Vacqueyras to Carpentras train station at the end.
AVIGNON TGV:
Outward: Change for train to Carpentras, then pre-booked taxi to Venasque (included in holiday price) OR pre-booked taxi transfer from Avignon TGV direct to hotel.
Return: Taxi (included) to Carpentras, then train direct to Avignon TGV.
MARSEILLE AIRPORT:
Outward: train from the airport to Avignon, train to Carpentras (one change), then pre-booked taxi (included).
Return: as above in reverse
NIMES AIRPORT:
Outward: shuttle bus to Nimes, train to Avignon, train to Carpentras (one change), then pre-booked taxi (included).
Return: as above in reverse
BEZIERS AIRPORT:
Outward: shuttle bus to Beziers, train to Avignon, train to Carpentras (one change), then pre-booked taxi (included).
Return: as above in reverse
MONTPELLIER AIRPORT:
Outward: shuttle bus to Montpellier, tram to station, then train to Carpentras (one change), then pre-booked taxi (included).
Return: as above in reverse
For pre-bookable taxi costs, see “Prices” or ask us. Note that the pre-booked taxis from Carpentras station to Venasque and back from Vacqueyras to Carpentras at the end are included in the holiday price (deductable if other transfer arrangements are made).
Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information.
Where You'll Stay
A selection of mostly family-run hotels, all with a particular French style and, where you eat in, an enviable quality of food and wine. Most speak at least a smattering of English and all have a pride in their accommodation and an eagerness to share that with you. Note that there are no twin rooms at the Hotel Montmirail (final night/s), although they can offer separate mattresses and bedding on one bed frame. If proper twins (two completely separate beds in one room) are important to you, opt for our simple alternative in Vacqueyras, Hotel Le Pradet.
Night 1 & 2
Excellent, thoughtful renovation with understated contemporary style. Pool (unheated).
Night 3 (Upgrade)
Mazan – Chateau de Mazan (B&B)
Splendid in-keeping renovation of an 18th century chateau. Pool. Accommodation in old house and in annexe.
Night 4
Le Barroux – Les Geraniums (dinner, B&B)
Friendly and popular hotel with good kitchen and a wonderful evening terrace.
Night 5 & 6
Vacqueyras – Hotel Montmirail (dinner, B&B)
Tastefully renovated, family run hotel - once famous for thermal springs which rise in its ground. NB: no twin (two separate beds) rooms, although separate mattresses and bedding on one bed frame are an option.
Venasque – La Garrigue (B&B)
Excellent, thoughtful renovation with understated contemporary style. Pool (unheated).
Website
Venasque – Les Remparts (B&B)
Quiet rooms apart from main hotel. Fabulous restaurant terrace with views.
Website
Mazan – Chateau de Mazan (B&B)
Splendid in-keeping renovation of an 18th century chateau. Pool. Accommodation in old house and in annexe.
Website
Le Barroux – Les Geraniums (dinner, B&B)
Friendly and popular hotel with good kitchen and a wonderful evening terrace.
Website
Vacqueyras – Hotel Montmirail (dinner, B&B)
Tastefully renovated, family run hotel - once famous for thermal springs which rise in its ground. NB: no twin (two separate beds) rooms, although separate mattresses and bedding on one bed frame are an option.
Website
Vacqueyras – Hotel le Pradet (dinner, B&B)
Plain but excellently run hotel with pool and enviable views of the Dentelles. Only option for proper twin rooms.
Website
Hotels in Avignon
F
or a night in Avignon we normally use the Hotel de l’Horloge, a well-appointed medium-sized hotel.
If you’re looking for a special, boutique experience, then do consider the lovely Numéro 15 (below). Tucked away in a quiet street, but only 5 mins walk from Avignon’s centre, is this newly and sensitively refurbished B&B. Rooms are well appointed, some with baths (twins will need a suite), and there’s a small but perfectly formed shady garden with a little pool for cooling tired feet.
Prices
Total 6 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 3 evening meals, 4 picnic lunches, taxi transfer from and back to Carpentras station, all luggage transfers between Venasque and Vacqueyras; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.
Also included: On Foot Holidays Companion app (from 2025), providing navigation/mapping and digital version of the Walkers’ Pack as above. Separate GPX files for your own device also available. If choosing to walk with app only (no printed materials): Discount of £40 per pack (based on one pack per room) from 2025.
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.
Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £305
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £190
Large party saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) – discount of at least £20 per person
Maximum party size: 10
Add Ons
Nights in Avignon at start or end of holiday: Contact On Foot Holidays for details – choice of standard and upgrade hotels
Taxi from Avignon city or TGV all the way to Venasque and/or from Vacqueyras all the way to Avignon: Contact On Foot Holidays for details.
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: £20-£60 (per pack, location dependent)
Travellers Blog
It’s back! Book our improved Northern Provence route
Wednesday 11th December | Posted by On Foot Staff
view article
Our local team
Emily Stokely
Rural France has been part of Emily’s life since she was a little girl holidaying here with her parents. After meeting Jeremy, and as keen outdoors enthusiasts, they spent many subsequent holidays exploring on foot and by bicycle. In 2005 they decided to move to France with their young family in order to build a house, and now run a small business managing holiday houses.
