NEW ROUTE – Foothills of the Picos de Europa

NEW! Walk through green Cantabrian hills to the Picos de Europa

The spectacular skyline of the Picos de Europa region of northern Spain has held a special draw for centuries, signalling to sailors that they were nearly home, and now beckoning hikers from around the world. Our new route here maintains this sense of anticipation, starting in the green foothills to the east and journeying westwards to the higher wilderness.

First you’ll become acquainted with the quiet farm tracks scattered across the valleys of Polaciones and Liébana. Vultures and eagles soar overhead whilst Cantabrian brown bears and Iberian wolves keep their distance in the undisturbed hills away from your path. Stop at tiny villages to stay in wayside inns and small hotels where you can enjoy a glass of orujo (the local firewater) with your hosts and sample the hearty Lebaniego stew.

After the bustling little town of Potes, follow the final section of the Camino Lebaniego pilgrimage route to the monastery of Santo Toribio. The modest buildings here belie its status as one of the most important pilgrim sites in Europe, with attendant hermitages perched on vantage points in the surrounding hills.

Now the landscape becomes more rugged, and the trail brings you to the massive cliffs at Espinama and Fuente Dé. Below the soaring peaks you have a choice of routes, but if the weather is good you should scale the cliffs by cable-car and experience a different world of bare rock and alpine pastures. The best views are yet to come on a glorious descent across the wooded hillsides back to your celebratory dinner and the end of your great Cantabrian traverse.

This route has been created especially for On Foot Holidays by Aznar Fernandez de Pinedo, designer of several of our Spanish hikes. He says: “When creating this route I wanted to avoid the popular trails in the mountains that have become overcrowded. My route visits totally off-the-beaten-track valleys and towns that no other tour operators have considered.

“It is a great ‘Crossing of Green Spain’ to reach the magnificent Picos. It skips the uneven paths at high elevation where the weather is unpredictable, and instead goes along scenic trails that are easier underfoot, but all the time through extremely beautiful scenery.”

‘Foothills of the Picos de Europa’ is now open for bookings in September and early October 2025, and for spring/early summer or autumn 2026. See our webpage for all the details, or call us to speak to Harriet or Simon, who have both walked the route and will be happy to tell you about its unique character.

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Kerryn (right) and his husband Henry recently walked our Vikos Gorge route in northwest Greece. It was their first walking holiday, and proved to be an inspiring and restorative trip, following some big challenges for them both in recent years. Kerryn talked to us about how the hike fitted in with improving his physical and mental health, as well as the highlights of their trip. We hope it is just the first of many rewarding explorations on foot! 

It’s hard to know how to begin writing this, so I’ll start with a little bit of information about me. My name is Kerryn, I’m 32 and married to my amazing husband, Henry. Our lives over the last few years have been turbulent, to say the least. We took a trip to South Africa after Henry was made redundant in early 2024; unfortunately, we both contracted salmonella on the first day, which led to us being hospitalised for the entire trip.

A few weeks after that disaster holiday, I started a new job and Henry ventured into the exciting but chaotic world of a start-up business — all whilst knocking down and rebuilding our family home.

To cap this all off, in October 2024, I was diagnosed with Crohn’s disease, an incurable autoimmune disease. This came after several years of symptoms, hospital visits and missed diagnoses. It was a bombshell I wasn’t necessarily expecting. On one hand, I felt happy and relieved that the symptoms I had experienced were finally validated; on the other, I was sad and uncertain about what my future might hold. But one thing was very clear: Henry and I needed to make plans for a healthier life together.

We decided to focus on a set of goals for 2025, and a few things immediately came to mind:

● Choose only ‘active’ holidays — no more simply lounging by the pool!

● Cut back on alcohol and focus on eating well.

● Cycle from London to Paris in July 2025 to raise funds for Crohn’s & Colitis UK (support us here).

With these targets in mind, I completed over 100 days alcohol-free from January to April and went skiing in France at the end of winter. Whilst we were in the Alps, the idea of a walking trip sprung to mind. I started doing some digging online, and that’s how we came across On Foot Holidays. It seemed like the perfect way to combine a holiday with ‘walking for wellness’!

On Foot were incredible and helped to source the ideal trip for us. We wanted long, rewarding walks with a dramatic backdrop that was relatively off the beaten path (not much to ask!). We chose the Vikos Gorge trip — six days in Northern Greece — and it was absolutely breathtaking at every turn.

Day 1 & 2
We started in the quaint village of Kapesovo, which has only around 50 residents. The following day, we walked up the Vradheto Steps to take in a stunning view straight down the famous gorge from the Beloi viewpoint. Being in this mountain village brought on an amazing sense of calm that neither of us had felt for a very long time. We read our books, played cards, enjoyed conversations with other walkers, and were joined by some local furry friends (large, friendly dogs) on our walk back down the ancient steps. With this new sense of calm, my Crohn’s symptoms immediately settled, which was such a welcome relief — the perfect way to start the trip.

Day 3
We trekked down into the valley below Kapesovo to reach the slightly larger village of Monodendri — another gorgeous place with a lovely town square that sits right on the cusp of the gorge. What amazed us was how different the scenery was to the day before: rolling hills, stone bridges, and deep forests that transported us to a world JRR Tolkien might have written about. On arrival in Monodendri, we had the most amazing mountain food — lamb chops, local cheeses, moussaka, and more — then got an early night ahead of the 23 km walk through the gorge the next day.

Day 4
We set off for the Vikos Gorge walk early to avoid the midday heat. We descended the steep path surrounded by a dramatic mountain backdrop, lush forest, and a rocky, seasonally dry riverbed. As we rounded each corner, it felt like a new adventure. The On Foot travel app was our best friend — it would definitely be quite easy to lose yourself otherwise! Towards the end of the gorge, we came across the Voidhomatis Springs and took a very (very!) cold dip to cool down before beginning the ascent into the final mountain village of Papingo.

What a stunning place! Sitting on the northern edge of the Vikos Gorge and surrounded by limestone mountain pillars, it is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to in Europe. Pictures simply do not do it justice — just wow!

Day 5
We prepared ourselves for the final long hike. We opted for the there-and-back hike to Astraka Refuge and Dragon Lake — a gruelling, uphill trek with no shade from the blazing 28-degree sun (definitely not for the faint-hearted!). Thankfully, as we ascended over 1,000m in altitude, the temperature dropped dramatically. Near the top of the climb, we arrived at the Astraka Refuge, overlooking a mountain plateau filled with wildflowers and wild horses — it could have been a scene straight out of ‘The Sound of Music’! It was a hard but rewarding day, and we certainly earned our dip in the cold Papingo springs the following day.

After Papingo, we travelled to Corfu for a few days of rest by the sea, which is only a couple of hours away. I am so amazed by the immediate impact that walking had on our health. It provided so much mental clarity and peace, and I’m so thankful we booked it. It truly was a memorable experience — particularly for someone who is always concerned about what to eat or where the nearest bathroom might be. We can’t wait to book our next walking holiday!

As mentioned above, Kerryn and Henry are undertaking a sponsored cycle ride from London to Paris in aid of Crohn’s & Colitis UK, starting on 23 July 2025, and have already raised an amazing sum. On Foot Holidays has made a donation – if you’d like to support them too, please follow this link. Thank you!

While the lazy, hazy days of the European summer stretch out in front of us, it’s a good time to think ahead to the autumn walking season. There’s still time to book a self-guided walking holiday for September, October or even November – the perfect months for hiking quiet trails.

As the late summer turns to autumn, the light softens, temperatures ease, and then the trees start to turn to vibrant orange and russet brown. Here are a few suggestions for enjoying Europe at its most beautiful – and scroll down for an extra reason to visit Andalucia…

For the best autumn colours

Try England’s Peak District in September when the heather blooms in vivid purple on the moorland, or October for the turning leaves. The gentle valleys are dotted with pretty villages, and higher ground brings some spectacular views.

The tree-clad slopes of Umbria are beautiful in September and October, and while it’s a short season, there’s more than enough to enjoy in the gorgeous landscapes and historic hilltop towns, and some fabulous Italian food!

More walking routes for autumn colour: Alpes Maritimes, Northern Portugal

Places to celebrate the harvest!

Late September/early October is a heady time in the Rhine Valley, as the vines reach their full potential and the grapes are harvested. We have two variations of the walk through the most spectacular part of the Rhine Gorge – do please ask us for advice about finding the quietest times to hike.

The vineyards of Ribeira Sacra will also be bustling with activity during the autumn season. This part of southern Galicia is a wine region gaining wider recognition, and you can sample a few vintages while enjoying the stunning valley views.

More walking routes through vineyards: Catalonia: El Priorat, Classic Slovenia

‘Low season’ routes opening up

Available from October to April is Marina Alta, in the hill country beyond Alicante, an area that is too warm for summer walking. These quiet trails are a world away from the busier coast, and a great choice for this time of year.

Among the volcanic peaks of the Canary Islands, our hiking route on La Gomera is a perfect autumn-winter-spring option. The dramatic landscapes are complemented by the island’s extraordinary biodiversity, and steep ascents are rewarded with magnificent views.

More walking routes for the cooler months: Mallorca, Andalucia… see below

SPECIAL OFFER !!
Andalucia in November 2025

Molino del Santo – our lovely upgrade accommodation in Benaojan – is offering a reduced price for On Foot Holidays clients staying for two nights or more in November 2025.

This charming hotel was converted from an olive and corn mill by an English couple in the 1980s, and it is now under the guiding hands of the next generation and their loyal staff. It sits in quiet countryside beside the river, with a pool, pretty gardens and a stylish restaurant.

And if you need a reason to stay a second night – also included is a free “Introduction to Ronda wines”, where you can hear about local winemakers and taste some samples.

Contact us to find out more and book your Andalucian adventure