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Dordogne – 6 nights
Classic France in the beautiful Dordogne valley
Back to Routes
Beautiful Beaulieu on the serene Dordogne
Rocamadour, clinging to the limestone cliffs
A sleepy afternoon in Autoire
A pretty country track
Carennac
Mist in the valley
Loubressac, one of the 'plus beaux villages'
The imposing fortress of Castelnau-Bretenoux
The Dordogne at Meyronne
Cliff-top chateau at Belcastel
At a glance
Dordogne 6-night version (missing walk to and stay at Port de Gagnac, but still with two nights in magical Rocamadour). Add extra nights in Beaulieu, Carennac, Meyronne, or Rocamadour
How much walking?
Full days: 13¼-22½km per day, 3-5½ hrs walking
Using shortening options: 8-14km per day, 1½-3¼ hrs walking
Hills and valleys, vineyards, bridges and chateaux
The River Dordogne, beloved of travellers for decades, courses its way from the Massif Central to the Atlantic at Bordeaux, and passes through some of the most beautiful countryside in France. Each section has its own character, but the stretch we have chosen reflects that variety, giving the walker a taste of the Middle Dordogne landscape in all its forms.
From the start at Beaulieu, where the wide river flows gently through the water meadows outside the old town, our route climbs into the hills above, with fine views and bucolic countryside on each of the first three walking days. You’ll then head over the limestone causse to the historic and dramatic pilgrimage centre of Rocamadour. The final day, should you choose to walk it, takes you along the steep-sided valley of the river Ouysse, a tributary of the Dordogne, perhaps for a late lunch at a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Stay in traditional inns and small hotels, many of them riverside, including a former château. And being France, the food is exceptional, with a lot of local specialities. The wines from the area are gaining a reputation too, and are worth exploring!
The walking is graded medium, but with built-in shortening options for those who would like to walk the route at a more leisurely pace.
Walked by On Foot staff: Simon and Debbie
REVIEWS: For independent walker reviews of this route submitted to the Association of Independent Tour Operators visit AITO.com.
ARTICLES: Read an article about On Foot’s Dordogne holiday on our blog here.
TRAVEL ADVICE: To find the latest travel advice from the Foreign & Commonwealth Office for UK citizens travelling to France, click here. Citizens of other nations will also find it useful, but should always check their appropriate local agency.
COVID-19 SAFETY PRECAUTIONS: Please read our summary of current regulations.
Route Highlights
- The limpid waters of the Dordogne middle reaches
- Castelnau castle
- The Autoire waterfall and clifftop walk
- Medieval fortified villages
- Walking across the Causse
- The sanctuary of Rocamadour
- The valley of the Ouysse
This route features the following characteristics and interests: Villages and farms, Drive to route, Food, History
We Recommend
Extra nights in Beaulieu, Carennac, Meyronne and Rocamadour.
Eating and drinking
While the general standard of meals throughout the route is good, special mention should be made of the dinners provided by our hosts at Carennac (Petite Auberge) and Meyronne (La Terrasse) and, if your itinerary includes it (6- and 7-night routes only), the possibility of lunch at a starred Michelin restaurant in Belcastel.
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: 8-14km per day, 1½-3¼ hrs walking
The paths are mainly waymarked, are well looked after, though careful attention still needed to your route directions.
Medium: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 500m (220m-745m) per day.
Easy-Medium: CUSs 325m (150m-425 m) per day using taxi shortening options (pay locally) most days.
GPX file available for handheld GPS or smartphone App for complete route.
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
The best months to walk: April, May, June, September, October
Other possible months: early July, August (very end)
Enjoy the Dordogne in April, May and June for the spring flowers and in September and October for the golden autumn warmth. Route not available between mid-July and late August. Please note that stays in Port de Gagnac are not possible on a Sunday night.
Please note: date ranges shown are for a ‘normal’ year. While Covid-19 restrictions remain, please contact us to discuss your plans and availability.
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Temperature and rainfall in Rocamadour
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrival day
Arrive and settle into your accommodation. Wander around the town to check out a restaurant for the evening, and perhaps enjoy an aperitif ...
Day 2 - Port de Gagnac (after taxi from Beaulieu) to Autoire (or Loubressac)
After a short taxi ride (included), a delightful day visiting the village of Glanes, the vineyards of the Coteaux de Glanes and the majestic castle of Castelnau (we recommend delaying your start if you want to catch the opening times – see below), before winding up the Autoire valley to its eponymous historic village and your next accommodation in a traditional inn. (4¼ hrs, 18km, CUSs 430m) (If our accommodation in Autoire is fully booked, we will book our simple hotel in Loubressac, which adds another 1.5 hrs to your day … but of course that makes the next day’s walk 1.5 hours shorter!)
Alternative: Arrange night before and continue from Port de Gagnac to Pesquies (saving 2hrs) or Castelnau (saving 2¾ hrs) – €15 supplement payable direct to driver.
Day 3 - Autoire (or Loubressac) to Carennac
Today’s scenic walk takes you to a dramatic waterfall, then out of the Autoire valley and up to a fine clifftop walk before descending to the pretty and historic village of Loubressac, which demands a ramble around the old part before continuing on (perhaps after a coffee at the Lou Cantou restaurant). The second part takes you through pretty countryside with views out over the Dordogne valley, to the lovely village of Gintrac, before a final ascent and then descent to Romanesque Carennac. (Medium-hard: 4½ hrs, 16¼ km, CUSs 745m)
Alternatives: Either travel with the luggage as far as Loubressac (supplement of €15) (thereby missing the cascade, but also a steep climb up!) or all the way to Carennac.
Day 4 - Carennac to Meyronne
A long (if done in full), beautifully varied day starting and ending with two very different aspects of the Dordogne, and leading through woods and wide-open countryside, over some limestone plateau and into small villages. There’s a lot of ground to cover, but there’s also a lot of opportunity for striding out over easy paths and tracks. (Medium-hard: 5½hrs, 22½km, CUSs 735m)
Alternatives: Lift with the luggage to Floirac (saving 2¼ hrs) or even Montvalent (saving 4 hrs). Supplement of €15 payable to the driver.
Day 5 - Meyronne to Rocamadour
An easier day largely through remote farmland on the Causse, belying the busyness of your destination – the tourist hub that is Rocamadour. The village’s dramatic setting grew up around a shrine to a black Madonna, and is now one of France’s “Grand Sites”, visited by pilgrims and travellers alike. (Easy-medium: 3¼hrs, 13¾km, CUSs 425m)
Alternatives: none except to travel with the luggage all the way.
Day 6 - Rocamadour to Belcastel
Today you have a choice: a walk to Belcastel – an easy valley route, or an upper route of ups and downs, some steep, but nothing too long, with wide views at the top before a descent on quiet asphalt to the still-working Moulin de Cagnaguet, where it meets the valley route to wind alongside the river to Belcastel (for a late lunch at the Michelin-starred Hotel Pont de l’Ouysse perhaps). Return via the valley route, or take a taxi back for a second night in Rocamadour. The other option is obviously to spend the day exploring the extraordinary site of Rocamadour! (Valley: Easy– 3hrs, 13¼kms, CUSs 220m; Upper: Easy-medium– 3½hrs, 14km, CUSs 420m)
Departure day
Leave for home – or have another night to explore Rocamadour further
Travel Information
ARRIVING BY AIR
Three airports serve the route – Brive is the nearest, but quite seasonal; Bergerac, a little further, is also quite seasonal, and will need a taxi transfer all the way (it’s not a cheap option); Toulouse is the furthest, but may have the best choice of flights. Alternatively fly into one of the Paris airports and take the train as far as Brive la Gaillarde, where our taxi will pick you up. Intercontinental journeys use Paris.
Land by: Toulouse 15:00; Bergerac no limit – taxi needed all the way; Brive no limit – supplement needed for taxi extension from airport.
Return flight earliest (for public transport options): Toulouse 12:00 (with very early start from Rocamadour); Bergerac no limit – taxi needed all the way; Brive no limit – supplement needed for taxi extension to airport.
No limit if opting to take a taxi all the way.
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.
See “Getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information.
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Nearest railway station:
Start: Bretenoux-Biars (nearest, but limited number of trains, so the holiday cost includes a taxi from Brive).
Finish: Souillac – holiday cost includes taxi from Rocamadour (or Meyronne) to Souillac station)
Sample journey by rail:
Via Paris: Gare d’Austerlitz to Brive ~4½ hrs
Souillac to Paris: direct to Paris ~5 hrs
We suggest thetrainline.com for times, ticket booking and other information.
ARRIVING BY CAR
Leave your car at the start of the route in a public car park in Beaulieu (no charge). Taxi back at end.
Getting to the start of the walk
The first hotel is in Beaulieu, and the last in Rocamadour, or Meyronne for shorter versions. Transfer times and methods are suggested for the three nearest airports below. For train arrival transfers see below.
BRIVE AIRPORT
Outward: Pre-booked taxi from airport to Beaulieu (included).
Return: Pre booked taxi (included) to Souillac (15 mins), train to Brive (30 mins), taxi off train station rank to airport – allow 1-1½ hours.
BERGERAC AIRPORT
Needs taxi all the way in both directions.
TOULOUSE BLAGNAC AIRPORT
Outward: shuttle bus to main station, train to Brive, pre booked taxi from there to Beaulieu.
Return: pre-booked taxi Rocamadour to Souillac station (included); train to Toulouse; shuttle bus to airport – allow 3 hours.
Transfers from train stations:
Outward: Pre-booked taxi from agreed arrival point (supplement for stations other than Brive)
Return: Taxi to Souillac station (included).
Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information. For pre-bookable taxi prices see “Prices”.
Where You'll Stay
The Dordogne is a popular holiday destination, and as such, there is a good variety of hotels and B&Bs – some very simple, such as those at Port de Gagnac and Autoire/Loubressac, others more sophisticated, such as that in Meyronne. Do consider an upgrade in Beaulieu or Rocamadour, or perhaps upgrade to a tower room or suite in Meyronne.
All accommodations have ensuite bathrooms and WiFi. Only Le Turenne (upgrade) in Beaulieu, La Terrasse in Meyronne, and the Beau Site (upgrade) in Rocamadour have aircon.
Night 1
Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne – Hôtel Les Flots Bleus (B&B)
Small riverside hotel with comfortable rooms and terrace restaurant.
Night 1 (Upgrade)
Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne – Hôtel Le Turenne (B&B)
Chic modernity in a lovely old townhouse.
Night 5 & 6
Rocamadour – Le Terminus des Pélerins (B&B)
In the heart of the medieval town. Small rooms.
Night 5 & 6 (Upgrade)
Rocamadour – Hôtel Beau Site (B&B)
19th century house tucked below the cliff, with a panoramic view.
Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne – Hôtel Les Flots Bleus (B&B)
Small riverside hotel with comfortable rooms and terraced restaurant.
Website
Autoire – Auberge de la Fontaine (B&B)
Renovated 18th century village house in a historic village.
Website
Rocamadour – Le Terminus des Pélerins (B&B)
In the heart of the medieval town, overlooking the Alzou valley. Popular local hotel and restaurant, with cosy rooms.
Website
Rocamadour – Hôtel Beau Site (B&B)
19th century house tucked below the cliff, with a panoramic view.
Website
Prices
Total 6 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 3 picnics and 3 evening meals, luggage transfers between all hotels on walking route; taxi from Brive railway station at start to Beaulieu, and from Rocamadour to Souillac railway station at end; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.
Single Room Supplement (SRS): From £250
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement (LTAS): From £260
Large Party Saving (LPS): Groups of more than 2 people (on an identical itinerary, on the same booking and booked at the same time) – discount of at least £50 per person.
Maximum party size: 10
Add Ons
Extra nights possible throughout the route: Contact On Foot for ideas and prices
Pre-booked taxis: a taxi from Brive railway station to Beaulieu sur Dordogne and from your final hotel back to Souillac railway station is included in your holiday price – if you would like to come from or go back to another town, ask us for a quote.
Arrange locally: Local taxi as required
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK: £10-£40 (per pack, location dependent)
Our local team
Emily Stokely
This particular part of France has been part of Emily’s life since she was a little girl holidaying here with her parents. It was one of the first places she visited after meeting Jeremy and as keen outdoors enthusiasts, they spent many subsequent holidays discovering the area on foot and by bicycle. In 2005 they decided to move here with their young family in order to build a house, and now live in the hills above Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne where they run a small business managing holiday houses.
