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Dordogne 6 nights
Classic France in the beautiful Dordogne valley
Back to Routes
Beautiful Beaulieu on the serene Dordogne
Rocamadour, clinging to the limestone cliffs
A sleepy afternoon in Autoire
A pretty country track
Carennac
Mist in the valley
Loubressac, one of the 'plus beaux villages'
The imposing fortress of Castelnau-Bretenoux
The Dordogne at Meyronne
Cliff-top chateau at Belcastel
Travellers Reviews
At a glance
Dordogne 6-night version (missing walk to and stay at Port de Gagnac). Add extra nights in Beaulieu, Carennac, Meyronne, Rocamadour or Belcastel
How much walking?
Full days: 13¼-22½km per day, 3-5½ hrs walking
Using shortening options: 8-14km per day, 1½-3¼ hrs walking
Hills and valleys, vineyards, bridges and chateaux
The River Dordogne, beloved of travellers for decades, courses its way from the Massif Central to the Atlantic at Bordeaux, and passes through some of the most beautiful countryside in France. Each section has its own character, but the stretch we have chosen reflects that variety, giving the walker a taste of the Middle Dordogne landscape in all its forms.
From the start at Beaulieu, where the wide river flows gently through the water meadows outside the old town, our route climbs into the hills above, with fine views and bucolic countryside on each of the first three walking days. You’ll then head over the limestone causse to the historic and dramatic pilgrimage centre of Rocamadour. The final day takes you along the steep-sided valley of the river Ouysse, a tributary of the Dordogne, to a Michelin-starred restaurant with rooms to celebrate the end of your walk.
Stay in traditional inns and small hotels, many of them riverside, including a former château. And being France, the food is exceptional, with a lot of local specialities. The wines from the area are gaining a reputation too, and are worth exploring!
The walking is graded medium, but with built-in shortening options for those who would like to walk the route at a more leisurely pace.
Route Highlights
- The limpid waters of the Dordogne middle reaches
- Castelnau castle
- The Autoire waterfall and clifftop walk
- Medieval fortified villages
- Walking across the Causse
- The sanctuary of Rocamadour
- The valley of the Ouysse
- Pont de l’Ouysse Michelin starred restaurant
We recommend this route if you a looking for: Pilgrimage, Remote, Villages and farms, Food, History
We Recommend
Extra nights in Beaulieu, Carennac, Meyronne, Rocamadour and Belcastel for relaxation.
Eating and drinking
While the general standard of meals throughout the route is good, special mention should be made of the dinners provided by our hosts at Carennac (Petite Auberge) and Meyronne (La Terrasse) and, if your itinerary includes it (6- and 7-night routes only), Belcastel, where a starred Michelin restaurant is a fitting place to end your walk.
How much Walking?
Using shortening options: 8-14km per day, 1½-3¼ hrs walking
The paths are mainly waymarked, and are well looked after.
Medium: Average cumulative uphill stretches (CUSs) 500m (220m-745m) per day.
Easy-Medium: CUSs 325m (150m-425 m) per day using taxi shortening options (pay locally) most days.
GPX file available for handheld GPS or smartphone App for complete route.
Important note: Times given for each day are walking times for an “average” walker and exclude stops. “CUSs” stands for “Cumulative Uphill Stretches” and measures the aggregated ascents in each day, expressed in metres of climb. See “Walk Grading” for more information.
When to go?
The best months to walk: April, May, June, September, October
Other possible months: early July, August (very end)
(In 2019, the route’s first year, we will be offering this route from May, but thereafter from April.)
Enjoy the Dordogne in April, May and June for the spring flowers and in September and October for the golden autumn warmth. Route not available between mid-July and late August.
Start Dates
Weather Chart
Temperature and rainfall in Rocamadour
Itinerary
Day 1 - Arrival day
Arrive and settle into your accommodation. Wander around the town to check out a restaurant for the evening, and perhaps enjoy an aperitif ...
Day 2 - Port de Gagnac (after taxi from Beaulieu) to Autoire (or Loubressac)
After a short taxi ride (included), a delightful day visiting the village of Glanes, the vineyards of the Coteaux de Glanes and the majestic castle of Castelnau (we recommend delaying your start if you want to catch the opening times – see below), before winding up the Autoire valley to its eponymous historic village and your next accommodation in a traditional inn. (4¼ hrs, 18km, CUSs 430m) (If our accommodation in Autoire is fully booked, we will book our simple hotel in Loubressac, which adds another 1.5 hrs to your day … but of course that makes the next day’s walk 1.5 hours shorter!)
Alternative: Arrange night before and continue from Port de Gagnac to Pesquies (saving 2hrs) or Castelnau (saving 2¾ hrs) – €15 supplement payable direct to driver.
Day 3 - Autoire (or Loubressac) to Carennac
Today’s scenic walk takes you to a dramatic waterfall, then out of the Autoire valley and up to a fine clifftop walk before descending to the pretty and historic village of Loubressac, which demands a ramble around the old part before continuing on (perhaps after a coffee at the Lou Cantou restaurant). The second part takes you through pretty countryside with views out over the Dordogne valley, to the lovely village of Gintrac, before a final ascent and then descent to Romanesque Carennac. (Medium-hard: 4½ hrs, 16¼ km, CUSs 745m)
Alternatives: Either travel with the luggage as far as Loubressac (supplement of €15) (thereby missing the cascade, but also a steep climb up!) or all the way to Carennac.
Day 4 - Carennac to Meyronne
A long (if done in full), beautifully varied day starting and ending with two very different aspects of the Dordogne, and leading through woods and wide-open countryside, over some limestone plateau and into small villages. There’s a lot of ground to cover, but there’s also a lot of opportunity for striding out over easy paths and tracks. (Medium-hard: 5½hrs, 22½km, CUSs 735m)
Alternatives: Lift with the luggage to Floirac (saving 2¼ hrs) or even Montvalent (saving 4 hrs). Supplement of €15 payable to the driver.
Day 5 - Meyronne to Rocamadour
An easier day largely through remote farmland on the Causse, belying the busyness of your destination – the tourist hub that is Rocamadour. The village’s dramatic setting grew up around a shrine to a black Madonna, and is now one of France’s “Grand Sites”, visited by pilgrims and travellers alike. (Easy-medium: 3¼hrs, 13¾km, CUSs 425m)
Alternatives: none except to travel with the luggage all the way.
Day 6 - Rocamadour to Belcastel
A choice today of the easy valley route, largely flat (after an initial climb and descent) along tracks, but with a visit to the resurgence of an underground river at Cabouy. The upper route is a pretty, very rural one of ups and downs, some steep, but nothing too long, with wide views at the top before a descent on quiet asphalt to the still-working Moulin de Cagnaguet. From then on you wind alongside the river all the way to our beautifully situated Michelin starred restaurant with rooms. (Valley: Easy – 3hrs, 13¼kms, CUSs 220m; Upper: Easy-medium – 3½hrs, 14km, CUSs 420m)
Alternatives: none other than to travel with the luggage all the way, or stay in Rocamadour for the day and arrange a taxi through your accommodation to take you to Belcastel.
Departure day
Leave for home – or have a second night in this congenial accommodation to enjoy their hospitality and relax by the river (or even by the pool, in season). If not, though, your taxi will take you to Souillac train station, unless you have booked an airport or other transfer (supplement).
Travel Information
ARRIVING BY AIR
Three airports serve the route – Brive is the nearest, but quite seasonal; Bergerac, a little further, is also quite seasonal, and will need a taxi transfer all the way; Toulouse is the furthest, but may have the best choice of flights. Alternatively fly into one of the Paris airports and take the train almost all the way to Beaulieu.
Land by (for public transport options): Brive 12:00; Toulouse 15:00; Bergerac no limit – taxi needed all the way.
Return flight earliest (for public transport options): Brive 10:30; Toulouse 12:00; Bergerac no limit – taxi needed all the way.
No limit if opting to take a taxi all the way.
Flight information can change rapidly and not all flights run daily. Please do check directly with the airlines’ websites or Skyscanner (see below) before finalising any booking with us. Do not book your flights until we have confirmed that we have provisionally reserved accommodation for you.
For up-to-date schedules and flights from all airports check Skyscanner.
See “Getting to the start of the walk” below for transfer information.
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Nearest railway station:
Start: Bretenoux-Biars (nearest, but limited number of trains), Brive or St Denis Près Martel
Finish: Souillac (Rocamadour for those finishing there)
Typical rail journey from Paris Gare d’Austerlitz to Bretenoux Biars:
4½ hour journey to Brive; local train Brive to Bretenoux Biars (c.1hr) – generally only 3 a day at 14:02, 19:36 and 22:16; pre-booked taxi on to Beaulieu.
Return from Souillac: local train to Brive (c.30 mins), then direct to Paris.
Return from Rocamadour: local train to Brive (c.40mins), then direct to Paris
See www.seat61.com for inspiration.
Getting to the start of the walk
The first hotel is in Beaulieu, and the last in Belcastel (or Rocamadour or Meyronne for shorter versions). Transfer times and methods are suggested for the three nearest airports below. For train arrival transfers see below.
BRIVE AIRPORT
Outward: taxi then SNCF bus then taxi: allow 3 hours from landing at Brive airport, not including long waits between SNCF buses.
Return: taxi (included) to Souillac (15 mins), train to Brive (30 mins), taxi to airport – allow 1-1½ hours.
BERGERAC AIRPORT
Needs taxi all the way in both directions
TOULOUSE BLAGNAC AIRPORT
Outward: bus/tram to city then train or bus/train to St Denis près Martel, pre booked taxi from there to Beaulieu.
Return: taxi (included) to Souillac; train to Toulouse; bus/tram to airport – allow 3 hours.
Transfers from train stations:
Outward: Pre-booked taxi from agreed arrival point (supplement)
Return: Taxi to Souillac station (Belcastel and Meyronne finishers – included) or local taxi (book locally – 15 min ride) to Rocamadour station (Roc finishers)
Full transfer advice, including timetables, is provided in your Walkers’ Pack. Contact us if you would like additional pre-booking information. For Pre-bookable taxi prices see “Prices”.
Where You'll Stay
The Dordogne is a popular holiday destination, and as such, there is a good variety of hotels and B&Bs – some very simple, such as those at Port de Gagnac and Autoire/Loubressac, others more sophisticated, such as those in Meyronne and Belcastel. Do consider an upgrade in Beaulieu or Rocamadour, or perhaps upgrade to a tower room or suite in Meyronne.
All accommodations have ensuite bathrooms and WiFi. Only Le Turenne (upgrade) in Beaulieu, La Terrasse in Meyronne, the Beau Site (upgrade) in Rocamadour and the Pont de l’Ouysse in Belcastel have aircon.
Night 1
Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne – Hôtel Les Flots Bleus (B&B)
Small riverside hotel with comfortable rooms and terrace restaurant.
Night 1 (Upgrade)
Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne – Hôtel Le Turenne (B&B)
Chic modernity in a lovely old townhouse.
Night 5 (Upgrade)
Rocamadour – Hôtel Beau Site (B&B)
19th century house tucked below the cliff, with a panoramic view.
Night 6
Belcastel – Le Pont de L’Ouysse (dinner, B&B)
A superb location for your final night, with a renowned restaurant and outdoor swimming pool.
Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne – Hôtel Les Flots Bleus (B&B)
Small riverside hotel with comfortable rooms and terraced restaurant.
Website
Autoire – Auberge de la Fontaine (B&B)
Renovated 18th century village house in a historic village.
Website
Rocamadour – Le Terminus des Pélerins (B&B)
In the heart of the medieval town, overlooking the Alzou valley. Popular local hotel and restaurant, with cosy rooms.
Website
Rocamadour – Hôtel Beau Site (B&B)
19th century house tucked below the cliff, with a panoramic view.
Website
Belcastel – Le Pont de L’Ouysse (dinner, B&B)
A superb location for your final night, with a renowned restaurant.
Website
Prices
Total 6 nights in double/twin room, all breakfasts, 3 picnics and 3 evening meals, luggage transfers between all hotels on walking route; taxi at end to Souillac station; full Walkers Pack with route directions, maps, transfer and background information; local telephone support.
All prices are per person unless otherwise indicated, and are based on a standard booking in May. Prices may vary seasonally and a fixed price will be given to you before you commit.
Single Room Supplement: From £210
Lone Traveller Additional Supplement: From £170
Larger Party Saving: Groups of more than 2 people (on identical itinerary in same booking) – discount of at least £65 per person.
Maximum Party Size: 16
Add Ons
Extra nights possible throughout the route: Contact On Foot for ideas and prices
Pre-booked taxi at start: from £42 Bretenoux/Biars train station to Beaulieu; from £93 Brive airport/train station to Beaulieu; from £288 Bergerac airport to Beaulieu, all 1-7 persons.
A taxi to Souillac station at the end is included in the cost of your booking (those finishing in Belcastel or Meyronne); a pre-booked taxi to continue further will be: from £35 Belcastel to Brive airport/train station; from £200 Belcastel to Bergerac airport; from £26 Meyronne to Brive airport/train station; from £200 Meyronne to Bergerac airport.
Sending Walkers Packs to addresses outside the UK and Ireland: £10-£40 (per pack, location dependent)
Arrange locally: Local taxi as required
Travellers Reviews
Route new for 2019
Travellers' reviews will appear here.
Route designed by:
Emily Stokely
This particular part of France has been part of Emily’s life since she was a little girl holidaying here with her parents. It was one of the first places she visited after meeting Jeremy and as keen outdoors enthusiasts, they spent many subsequent holidays discovering the area on foot and by bicycle. In 2005 they decided to move here with their young family in order to build a house, and now live in the hills above Beaulieu-sur-Dordogne where they run a small business managing holiday houses.
